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  #11  
Old 02-06-2007, 04:58 PM
Ross Ross is offline
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I forgot to add - check the following threads where I show pics of my CF setups. My recommendation is to dump the mercury vapor fixture (which has a non-standard base) and go with CF if that's all the space you have. There are some pretty high output models. Also keep in mind the CF fixtures, for some reason, have about half the life of full length straight T5 bulbs of same wattage.

http://www.orchidboard.com/community...ied-these.html
http://www.orchidboard.com/community...solutions.html

This shows my upstairs grow area where I am supplementing natural light with CFs. I made a home-made light setup with an extension cord and two CF bulbs. I don't have the space here for anything more robust.

If you have space, then a dedicated T5 fixture with 4 or 6 or 8 tubes is worth the investment, over time.
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  #12  
Old 02-06-2007, 07:30 PM
20jlr 20jlr is offline
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Do the compact bulbs in this picture work well for orchids? It would sure be an inexpensive way to add more light.
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  #13  
Old 02-06-2007, 09:14 PM
Ross Ross is offline
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They work just fine, it's just that they are an expensive solution if you can do 24" or 48" banks. It's not terribly expensive (about $28 per bulb) It wasn't possible in my case so I opted for these. I realise I will have to pay for balasts when I redo the bulbs.
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  #14  
Old 02-08-2007, 02:26 PM
HDCochran HDCochran is offline
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Location: Oriental, NC, Zone 8a
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Default T5 Lights in My Orchidarium

The upper lights are four 24" biax tubes; the lower ones are four newer 48" tubes in the fixture from ebay,
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  #15  
Old 02-08-2007, 09:35 PM
Ross Ross is offline
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Looks similar to mine
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  #16  
Old 02-12-2007, 03:44 PM
Linnie Linnie is offline
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Ross and anyone else who grows under CF

Have you tried to measure the footcandles for your setup? If you have, what kind of light meter are you using?. I bought a cheap Hydrofarm Light meter that says it measures fluorescent and sun but I can't get a reading on my CF.

I have four Full Spectrum Spiralux Vita-Lite, 23 Watt, 5500K, and two 50 watt Sylvania Spot-Grow lights.
I just recently brought my plants inside while they are waiting for their new "orchid room" so I just bought these bulbs hoping I can keep my orchids alive for the next month. There are four windows facing every direction except South so they get some natural light too.

IT is so BRIGHT in there that you would think you are outside, but no reading on the light meter. Perhaps I just need more light??

Thanks
I forgot to add each of the 23 Watt full spectrum put out 1380 Lumens .

Last edited by Linnie; 02-12-2007 at 03:53 PM..
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  #17  
Old 02-12-2007, 03:56 PM
Ross Ross is offline
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Yes I have measured both my setups. As I showed above, I use 3 55watt full spectrum lamps to supplement full sunlight. I leave the screens in the windows to temper things a bit (many of the bright light orchids' leaves run a bit on the red side) And I get 2500-3500 foot-candles at the leaf surface. In my terrarium I measure approx 1000-1500 FC next to the three minis that need that much light (Dendro aberrans, which shows nice reddish leaf color and Maxillaria variabolis which is nice light-green color). Near the bottom of the terrarium, farthest from the lights I only measure about 400-500 FCs. Everybody in the terrarium is lovin it so far. There is a bank of 4 T5 tubes hung in contact with the top of terrarium. The bank of tubes puts out about 2000 FC. The meter I use is a dual scale Light Intensity Meter by Environmental Concepts. Hope this helps.
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  #18  
Old 02-12-2007, 04:02 PM
Ross Ross is offline
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As I re-read your post, I had initially missed something. My meter will respond to normal flourescent lights over my computer when held 3-4 feet away from a standard 40 watt 4' T12 shop light! Not much mind you, but does respond. When I get the above readings (first response) I get strong readings. So my initial guess is your meter is defective. That's pretty common. Try a local organic indoor hydroponics store (there must be one somewhere near-by). They'll have meters and you can check them before you buy.
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  #19  
Old 02-12-2007, 04:12 PM
Ross Ross is offline
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Linnie, I just had another thought. Rather than even try to measure light intensity, why not look up specs on the bulbs you are using and use those specs. Remember published lumens (rarely are specs in foot-candles, even though that's what you want) are at the bulb surface. Light drops off (gets dimmer) as a square of the distance. So using my case, the T5 bank puts out approx 20,000 lumens (at bulb surface) or approx 2000 foot-candles (get foot-candles by dividing lumens by 10 - close enough). At 12" it would be approx half, or 1000 foot candles. At 24" it would be approx 1/4 or 500 FCs -- I think I have my math correct. Anyway my light meter pretty-much confirms this and the plants are my best judge. Sorry for rambling, but just stick a whole bunch of bulbs out and wait for the new grow room
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  #20  
Old 02-14-2007, 11:37 PM
alyau alyau is offline
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Hi
I am new to the OB and also new to growing orchids. However, I am experienced in growing plants in aquarium. I am using compact fluorscent tubes which are 96watt each with color temperature varies from 5000K to 10000K and above. The bulds are specially designed for plants. With special reflectors, the lights are so bright that you will not be able to look at it directly. In a fish tank, lights need to travel through approx 24 inches of water with lots of impurities and small particals, before reaching the bottom for the plants. Some plants requires really bright light to survive.
Those CF lights are quite expensive. Each bulb costs up to $100 in retail. I bought them from Compact Fluorescent Lighting Kits and cost one third of the price and the services were excellent. The also sell kits which comes with everything required.

Hope this information useful.

Albert
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