Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry
So I moved the pots to the garage for a cold temp change. Attachment 170384 The garage stays around 10-12 C / 50-53 F, 79% humidity winter.
They were in the shower room which is around 20 C / 68 F.
So that's around a 10 degree drop, hopefully to get some spikes.
Not sure if the Bromeliad gets the same treatment. Attachment 170383 And the light is 3000K |
Like Roberta wrote, 12 C is way too cold for Phalaenopsis.
Orchids teach you patience, look at my signature. I truly believe that. You can't hasten plants. They do everything in their own pace in an order they think is best.
Orchids (and other flowering plants) you buy in grocery stores are often forced to bloom. Newly acquired plants need to recover from that. Let them do their own things. Likely they'll grow roots and new leaves to start with.
Where I live you can expect a new spike late fall. I think for where you live it's about the same.
My Phals always have been reliable bloomers during the winter months. In fact, I have still one in full bloom right now.
Don't force them too bloom, it takes a lot of energy away from the plant. And where you live it should flower for you in a natural cycle. I don't think you have to do something special for it. It will get a night chill anyway during fall, if the plants need that at all. I doubt it.
About your light. 900 lumen is how strong the light is. When it's about 50 cm above the plants, it should be enough for Phalaenopsis.
Do a lumen to lux conversion online and you'll see you'll have a 1000 lux above the plants then.
It's not ideal but for lengthening the days during winter months it could be enough.
3000 Kelvin is warm light.
6500 Kelvin is day light
I've been using 4200 Kelvin in the past with success. Maybe not optimal but it did the trick.
Color temperature alone doesn't tell everything about how well suited the light is for growing plants. But for non commercial use I think most TL will do.
I have no experience with LED.
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