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Old 12-17-2019, 01:56 AM
sesh sesh is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 17
Indoor Orchidarium Build
Default Indoor Orchidarium Build

Hi everyone!

Sharing my Journey building my indoor Orchidarium here.
At this stage I would not call myself a beginner, nor an expert.

I began this in 2018, soon after I realized that my Windowsill Orchidarium was not going to materialize. A lot of learning was carried over, though.

My aims were simple :
To grow AND FLOWER orchids under completely artificial lighting.
I did not want to grow them in shelves, nor did I want to enclose them completely in an aquarium type of enclosure.

So I began the build by building the framework.

Indoor Orchidarium Build-screenshot_162-jpg

After the framework was done, I started on the lights.

At this point, I wasn’t sure it was going to work, so decided to go with Chinese stuff as they are cheap.

Here the aim was to achieve the Required intensity at the plant while the light remains at the top.
The solution was, of course, Lenses. Bought some stuff from Aliexpress.

Indoor Orchidarium Build-screenshot_163-jpg
Indoor Orchidarium Build-screenshot_166-jpg
Then tested the lights.
Indoor Orchidarium Build-screenshot_165-jpg

Then, to hold everything together, I machined a couple of MDF profiles.

Indoor Orchidarium Build-20191216_143848-jpg

And then put 16 of them up and the plants underneath, and crossed my fingers! They've been there for 10 months now, not doing so badly.
Indoor Orchidarium Build-20191201_111723-jpg

Troubleshooting:
My electronics took some time to stabilize, with a single bead of one light blowing every other day. I literally tore my hair out, trying to figure out where the problem was. Turned out there were multiple factors.

Drivers: A series of nine of the beads I had chosen needed 54-63V to run. I found the voltage the drivers were giving out would randomly go up even to 75v. So I junked the Chinese drivers, and bought some Indian ones where the voltage was ‘capped’ at 70v. That reduced the frequency of lights blowing, but it was still happening.
The heatsinks: I had cobbled together a bunch of heatsinks, from various sources. For me, this video was a life saver:
. When I compared my heatsinks, I found they were of varying thicknesses, and had different number of fins. When I tested the light with the thicker heatsinks, they would get hot, but no lights would blow. So changed all the thinner ones to fatter ones. Again, the frequency of beads went down, but would not go away all together.
Testing versus actual: I bought a cheap temperature sensor, and started checking the temperature of the heatsinks when the lights were on. I found out from the Aliexpress product page that I should aim at keeping it under 60 Degrees celsius. I found that there was quite a difference between testing it on my table, and testing it in place among all the other light, as the ambient temperature among the lights was greater.
Fans: Some of the fans would malfunction, causing a bead to blow.

I realized that I needed some kind of safety switch that would put the lights off when they became too hot.

Indoor Orchidarium Build-20191216_145211-jpg

Found these online: Bimetal thermostat switches. These are very cheap(Rs.30 each), and I connected one to the electronics of each light, and Voila! I now have 10 days without a single bead blowing!
If anyone is dabbling with DIY leds as a beginner, I would seriously recommend adding this to your light as a safety device. Saves a lot of time and effort. I’m sure people have done this before, but since I have no background in electronics, I ‘discovered’ this component only a month ago!


Once the lights stabilized, I could get on with the business of actually growing my orchids, which is after all, the whole point!

Next was humidity.
I had used a couple of transparent shower curtains in the front, to hold the humidity in. Big mistake. When I started taking readings, I found that the LEDs burn very dry. So the humidity outside the Orchidarium was greater than the humidity inside (I live in Mumbai, after all). So got rid of the shower curtains.

Now the humidity is much better, and I spray according to the humidity meter. Some of the tolumnias right on top are budding.

I have a long way to go go yet before I get my Cattleyas, Dendrobiums and Vandas to flower, but now looks like there is hope.
I have learnt a lot from this forum though I don’t post very often. I felt sharing my experience would be useful to someone else who was beginning something like this, to avoid/learn from my mistakes..
I will be grateful if the experts here can give feedback and suggest improvements, some of which I will be able to implement immediately, and others in Version.2.

Looking forward to hearing from you guys, and many thanks again.

Regards,
Seshadri
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