Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnus A
Hi
It is very hard to define the porosity on a good tube! But a guide is that it should bleed enough so that small drops are formed on the outside after some hour! The tube leaks alot when it is filled but after the watersurface is lowered due to leaking the preasure drops and the leaking slows down. I refill my tube roughly ones a week.
The evaporation is also a factor to consider and a slow leaking tube stays wet enough if it is enclosed into a small vivarium/case.
/Magnus
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What Magnus is describing is exactly were I was at with my SwampStick's, but I was flooded with complaints and have since adjusted kiln temperature and a few other variables.
That being said I'm fairly certain I can duplicate the "recipe" and create a tube that can either sit in water and pull water up into the ceramic, as well as cap the base of the tube and keep it porous enough to weep; or what kind of looks to me like beads of sweat or condensation on the outside surface.
As the water level drops, the hydraulic pressure lessens, as does the volume of water beading up on the surface of the mount.
I'll just have to make a few and test them.
gmdiaz, what are you thinking in regards to the height of the tube? And you would want a base in it right, so you could fill it?
I'll make one to your specs and we can see how it does.
Here are a few photos of a custom job done earlier this year. The tubes and base were hand thrown on the wheel, fired and then re-fired to glaze the base. We created two of these for this customer
This was a longer process as everything was hand built and cost was at a premium. But now with the extruder, labor is reduced to a minimum.
These photos were sent about 2 months after he got the viv's set up.
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