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  #31  
Old 09-15-2008, 01:33 AM
unhappykat unhappykat is offline
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Has anyone ever tried doing this with just a regular terracotta pot with the drainage hole plugged and the base glazed so water would have to come from the sides and not just drip from the bottom. I know there are a few places that sell extra tall clay pots that would do nicely for this sort of growing, you could even place a mini taro or anthirium at the top of the container for a palm like look to the whole container.
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  #32  
Old 09-15-2008, 04:09 AM
Magnus A Magnus A is offline
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Kyle, the chimney pipes looks very interesting. The coating could be sanded or sandblasted if it has not penetrated to deep. Then there is the question of how porous the pipes are! But you could ask the manufacturer if you could get a non treated pipe and test it!

unhappykat, Yes I have tested clay pots. Most of them seems to be wax treated ruining them for this application. The ones I found without treatment has been fired at to high temperature and have not been leaking enough. They are not porous enough!
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  #33  
Old 09-15-2008, 01:36 PM
unhappykat unhappykat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnus A View Post
Kyle, the chimney pipes looks very interesting. The coating could be sanded or sandblasted if it has not penetrated to deep. Then there is the question of how porous the pipes are! But you could ask the manufacturer if you could get a non treated pipe and test it!

unhappykat, Yes I have tested clay pots. Most of them seems to be wax treated ruining them for this application. The ones I found without treatment has been fired at to high temperature and have not been leaking enough. They are not porous enough!
I have never encountered clay pots with any type of wax treatment on them before, I find that interesting. Could you try wrapping the clay pot with long fibered sphagnum moss then attaching a wick to the edge of the pot to draw moisture directly from the resivoir to the moss layer bypassing the porosity almost entirely. Then you would be able to use more decorative ceramic pots as well as clay ones for your mounts.
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  #34  
Old 09-16-2008, 08:02 AM
Magnus A Magnus A is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unhappykat View Post
Could you try wrapping the clay pot with long fibered sphagnum moss then attaching a wick to the edge of the pot to draw moisture directly from the resivoir to the moss layer bypassing the porosity almost entirely. Then you would be able to use more decorative ceramic pots as well as clay ones for your mounts.

Have no opinion for the sphagnum moss mount you suggest. I think you have to test but the result will depend on your humidity! Dry condition gives more and faster evaporation and so on....
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  #35  
Old 09-26-2008, 11:55 PM
growinhydro growinhydro is offline
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Default SwampStick - Ceramic Mount

Hi all, interesting thread

To answer the SwampStick question, I have in fact perfected them with the addition of a soy based tile sealer at the bottom inside of the mounts. I have also had good results with the use of water absorbing polymers inside the mounts.

It was good timing that I came across this thread. I just finished installing an extruder I had built. So far I have had 3" and 6" dies built, but I can now extrude those very tubes you are interested in.

6" diameter, approx 1/2" thick, and I am limited on length by the height of my kiln so nothing longer than two feet.

I am planning on creating a custom mount creator type web page where you can pick a tube diameter, length, add a base, add a glaze, wax treatment, texture, or about anything else you can think of and I will build them to your specifications.

I'll be testing it this weekend so I will take some pictures. If you have any other questions regarding the SwampSticks or an extruded terracotta or white clay tube, feel free to contact me.

Kind regards,
Jesse

Last edited by growinhydro; 09-26-2008 at 11:59 PM..
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  #36  
Old 09-27-2008, 12:04 AM
growinhydro growinhydro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grandma M View Post
Gwen

I HAD several Swampsticks when he first started making them....I said HAD. I think he has perfected them now. Marilyn
Marilyn, may I replace the ones you are not happy with?

Regards, Jesse
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  #37  
Old 09-27-2008, 03:11 PM
growinhydro growinhydro is offline
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Default Extruded tubes

Here are some photos from the 6" die test this morning, and a 3" tube from earlier this week.
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Nano Viv Terracotta Tubes - Erin Pottery-img_9827-jpg   Nano Viv Terracotta Tubes - Erin Pottery-img_9828-jpg   Nano Viv Terracotta Tubes - Erin Pottery-img_9829-jpg   Nano Viv Terracotta Tubes - Erin Pottery-img_9831-jpg  
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  #38  
Old 09-27-2008, 04:46 PM
gmdiaz gmdiaz is offline
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Hi Jesse!

Thank you so much for responding to our thread! I really appreciate it!

I would be happy happy happy to test one of your tubes.

I need something quick, actually. My poor little calodictyon is so unhappy. . I am down to one new leaf!

Maybe Magnus, could speak with you in detail about what works and what we're looking for specifically. He has tested some tubes that have the right porosity.

If you could get the porosity right. .it would be a GREAT growing tool.

Feel free to contact me!
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  #39  
Old 09-27-2008, 07:32 PM
Magnus A Magnus A is offline
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Hi

It is very hard to define the porosity on a good tube! But a guide is that it should bleed enough so that small drops are formed on the outside after some hour! The tube leaks alot when it is filled but after the watersurface is lowered due to leaking the preasure drops and the leaking slows down. I refill my tube roughly ones a week.

The evaporation is also a factor to consider and a slow leaking tube stays wet enough if it is enclosed into a small vivarium/case.

/Magnus
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  #40  
Old 09-28-2008, 07:51 PM
golden golden is offline
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Nano Viv Terracotta Tubes - Erin Pottery Female
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Hi there
I was inspired by this topic and decided to give it a try. I bought a regular unglased ceramic vase and mounted 2 mini hybride masdevallias and a dracula lotax. The vase is fill with RO water and placed in a small aquarium. There is a compure vent going on 24/7. The whole thing is placed on a windowsill and needs no additional light.
The plants have been mounted for 2 weeks and look good so far.


The photos are made 1 week after the start of my project.
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