Mounting Questions

[AaronM]

all,
I am a newcomer to the world of orchids and like most new orchidphiles I have some questions about the art of mounting on cork bark slabs and chunks. "Why not tree fern bark?" you ask. Well, because I think its hideous and unnatural looking.
1) Sphagnum moss: over the roots, under the roots, both, or none at all?
2) Fishing line, florist's wire, hot glue or hair from the tails of prize winning black Arabian horses?
3) How often should they be watered?
4) How often and how heavily should they be fertilized?
5) When selecting the slab, as a rule of thumb, how many years of growth should you plan for?
6) KLN, Superthrive, or nothing at all.
7) What's the trick to knowing when the roots are well established enough to remove the wrapping material?

Please answer as many of these questions as you wish.
Thanks.
Below is a photo of my very first mounting, an Onc. ampliatum.

[Ranchnanny]

Aaron M I tried my first mountings about 2 months ago and they came out very well. I used cork bark and very old driftwood. I also used florists wire and new zealand moss. I soaked the bark and the moss overnight with kln in the water. The next day I took small handful of moss squeezed out the water and placed it on the bark. Placed the plant then more moss then the wire. Once mounted I hung it in the ordcidarium. They are doing so well and have so many roots.
I fertilize lightly at least everyother watering. In between I mist them daily 3 or 4 times. I try to dip the whole mounting at least twice a month.
Hope this helps

Check out the

[isurus79]

Originally Posted by AaronM

1) Sphagnum moss: over the roots, under the roots, both, or none at all?
2) Fishing line, florist's wire, hot glue or hair from the tails of prize winning black Arabian horses?
3) How often should they be watered?
4) How often and how heavily should they be fertilized?
5) When selecting the slab, as a rule of thumb, how many years of growth should you plan for?
6) KLN, Superthrive, or nothing at all.
7) What's the trick to knowing when the roots are well established enough to remove the wrapping material?

I like that you've numbered the questions. Makes it much easier to answer!!

1) Totally depends on: the species (those that need rapid drying vs. those that prefer to be moist more often than not), and your particular conditions (humidity, temperature, light levels and how heavy handed your watering habits are). Sorry I cant be more specific here, you'll just have to constantly watch your plants until you figure 'em out.
2) If you've got acces to Arabian horses, by all means try it! I kinda curious about that one myself... I used to use fishing monofilament but its a real pain in the butt to try and secure your plant tightly while tying a knot. Personally, I discovered zip ties and long twine work great for me.
3) Mounted plants are pretty darn hard to over water. Again, this depends on what species and your particular conditions that you are dealing with. I water mine every day (twice in summer) but I live in a warm climate, with lots of sun and an almost constant 10-20 mph trade wind regime. You probably dont have those conditions, so once a day in warm weather when your plant is actively growing and less during cool weather or when you plant is dormant/resting. Again, it depends on the species, but you should not water if the roots are still wet (ie. green, they should be dry ie. white).
4) Fertilize as often as you would for normally potted orchids. Once every other week or so for orchids in active growth works for me, less to none during rest periods, again, depending on the species. Follow the instructions on the back of the bottle for best results!! lol Its true. I swear.
5) I plan for at least 3 years growth, maybe more. Mounts tend to last fairly long and even then, when your plant outgrows it, it will begin growing on itself. Let this happen for a year and then you'll have to break it up into smaller peices and start all over again.
6) Personally, I use none of these products and I have excellent results. Im sure there are those out there, however, who would disagree very much!
7) You'll know. Trust me. The roots will be all over the mount and you'll know.

Phew. I hope that helps!! Again, think about what type of plant you are going to mount, where its from and what conditions it requires and then think about what conditions you can provide.

[Lorraine]

Originally Posted by AaronM

all,
I am a newcomer to the world of orchids and like most new orchidphiles I have some questions about the art of mounting on cork bark slabs and chunks. "Why not tree fern bark?" you ask. Well, because I think its hideous and unnatural looking.
1) Sphagnum moss: over the roots, under the roots, both, or none at all?
2) Fishing line, florist's wire, hot glue or hair from the tails of prize winning black Arabian horses?
3) How often should they be watered?
4) How often and how heavily should they be fertilized?
5) When selecting the slab, as a rule of thumb, how many years of growth should you plan for?
6) KLN, Superthrive, or nothing at all.
7) What's the trick to knowing when the roots are well established enough to remove the wrapping material?

Please answer as many of these questions as you wish.
Thanks.
Below is a photo of my very first mounting, an Onc. ampliatum.

Hi Aaron,

Lots of good info from above members on fert. etc. Thanks guys.

For sure I wouldn't use hot glue BUT you could use Liquid Nails but unless the guy was really small it might be difficult attaching it. It comes clear and in a tube for smaller projects. HD has it. I have good sucess using the zip ties/cable ties for the main attachment. You could also use copper wire like they use for bonsai. I then use the fishing line with a small loop at one end and thread the other end through and then wrap around multiple times. Depending on the shape and thickness of the piece you might have to use a second line and tie it off onto the loop end. Once it is established (you'll know) just snip off the line and leave the cable tie/wire alone.

For those of you with coconuts around wack that thing into 3rds remove the inside nut (hammer works well) and mount your chid onto the husk. I use the 16 ga wire cut into pieces that you can fold in half and push it with your chid through the inside husk part of the coconut. I use this technique since I can't wrap fishline securely and its concave. Here are some closeups of the ones I did. **Angle the clip so it doesn't pull out in the wind.**

These guys were done about 2 months go and 2 have new growths and many roots as well.

Have fun mounting.
Lorraine

[epiphyte78]

1) Sphagnum moss: over the roots, under the roots, both, or none at all?

Depends on how frequently and deeply you water them. The more water you can give the orchid the less sphagnum moss you'll need. It also depends on the orchid. For example, a Mexican Laelia will require a lot less moss than your average pleurothallid or bulbophyllum will. Also, New Zealand sphagnum is considerably more moisture retentive than green sphagnum moss is.

When I do use moss I place the orchid on top of the moss...which usually equates to the moss being under the roots.

2) Fishing line, florist's wire, hot glue or hair from the tails of prize winning black Arabian horses?

I just use regular string with a slip knot on one end.

3) How often should they be watered?

Depends on which orchid it is, whether the orchid is growing or resting, how it's mounted (vertically or horizontally oriented), what it's mounted on, how much moss you used, which type of moss you used, the relative humidity around the orchid and whether or not the mounted orchid will receive any water via rainfall.

4) How often and how heavily should they be fertilized?

I've never fertilized my mounted orchids...they would probably benefit from it but they do fine without it. All my orchids are outdoors and I occasionally notice bird poop on them and they probably derive some nutrients from the breakdown of their mount.

5) When selecting the slab, as a rule of thumb, how many years of growth should you plan for?

For the most part I pick a mount that is around 3 times longer than the orchid is at its longest/widest point.

6) KLN, Superthrive, or nothing at all.

Nothing. Again, they would most likely benefit but they do fine without it.

7) What's the trick to knowing when the roots are well established enough to remove the wrapping material?

Not sure if there's any trick to it, it's more a matter of observing the quantity of roots that have fully adhered to the bark. I usually just wait until the string starts to break down.

[Royal]

Originally Posted by AaronM

all,
I am a newcomer to the world of orchids and like most new orchidphiles I have some questions about the art of mounting on cork bark slabs and chunks. "Why not tree fern bark?" you ask. Well, because I think its hideous and unnatural looking.
1) Sphagnum moss: over the roots, under the roots, both, or none at all?
2) Fishing line, florist's wire, hot glue or hair from the tails of prize winning black Arabian horses?
3) How often should they be watered?
4) How often and how heavily should they be fertilized?
5) When selecting the slab, as a rule of thumb, how many years of growth should you plan for?
6) KLN, Superthrive, or nothing at all.
7) What's the trick to knowing when the roots are well established enough to remove the wrapping material?

Please answer as many of these questions as you wish.
Thanks.
Below is a photo of my very first mounting, an Onc. ampliatum.

I agree that I want my mounts to look as natural as possible. Tree fern fiber is what they press into those bricks or plaques. The cork bark is awesome.

I have recently started using the florist's wire. I know, I know, it's rough on the roots. But it's so small and blends in so you can use more without it looking unsightly. I use a staple gun to put a couple of pads onto the bark. I try to find the best orientation for its natural growth habit. Cover the roots with another little pad, then start wrapping. I just twist a loop at one end, pull the loose end through and make one continuous wrap. The wire is also easier to tie off.

I'll take some pics tonight. Good Luck!

[AaronM]

Wow I had trouble relocating this thread. Someone moved it form beginner discussion section.
I wanted to add this picture of my most successful mount. My to section mount of my Onc. 'Sweet Sugar'.
Out of curiosity. Does trimming away older nongrowing roots stimulate the growth of new roots? Many of my mounts aren't growing enough new roots for my liking.

Thanks.

AaronM

[Lorraine]

Originally Posted by AaronM

Wow I had trouble relocating this thread. Someone moved it form beginner discussion section.
I wanted to add this picture of my most successful mount. My to section mount of my Onc. 'Sweet Sugar'.
Out of curiosity. Does trimming away older nongrowing roots stimulate the growth of new roots? Many of my mounts aren't growing enough new roots for my liking.

Thanks.

AaronM

Nice job Aaron,
I trim away any dead roots I see before mounting because they will only take up space and harbor unwanted problems. New roots are slow going so be patient and water your guy when it gets dry don't forget to fertilize. My mounts usually dry out and get watered everyday. When it gets really hot here they get it 2x a day.
Lorraine

[Dorothy]

I didn't mean to confuse you, Aaron. We started a new forum under Orchids Grown on Mounts and I moved a quite a few threads to this forum .. If you wish this to remain in the Beginners forum - I can move it back .. Just let me know .. Sorry for the confusion

[AaronM]

Dorothy,
This placement is fine I was just a little surprised to find it had moved "on its own".