Mounting orchids for the first time

[DirtyCoconuts]

i almost never mount things on the top of a horizontal branch. this is somewhat aesthetic but also because they never grow that way in nature, always slightly off to the side or underneath a horizontal branch or on a vertical face.

your method of attachment should be strong enough to hold the plant in the orientation you want to be in, think a little bit of bonsai culture.

if you are concerned about the plant being steady in a vertical orientation, i would lash it on tighter

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by davidg

No, I had a round log - a cylinder about a foot long, but thick, with corky bark. I attached it in the middle. Right now I have so it is on one side, facing the light, with the log horizontal. I can rotate it so that the plant hangs vertically - I figured it should have a chance to attach a few roots first?

Remember, this species wants to grow vertically, with leaves hanging downward. (The stem is floppy because it doesn't need to be rigid in that configuration, why waste energy with growing hard tissue?) Also, it can produce new roots at nodes where it appears to branch - so those should be in contact with the mount as well. Water daily, and I think you'll find that it roots nicely, and very possibly at more than one point.

[davidg]

Thanks for that. I did notice a root coming from a node on one stem, which is why I left it vertical, until that root took hold. I could add an extra tie and hold that node down - I'll do that. Water every day for sure. The next weeks have highs about 15 to 17, so we should see some growth, and on the others that I am steadily getting mounted. The Cattleya bowringiana is a bigger plant, so I decided to put it right on the tree. When I took it out of the pot it had lots of root activity at the growing end, so it should take hold fast - I really tied it down tight in a slight hollow on the trunk, to accommodate the big mass of older, intertwined roots from potting, with some sphagnum over the roots.

It was a picture of it blooming in Kirsten Llamas' book, 'Tropical Flowering Plants' that got me going in this direction. She has a beautiful picture of D.lindleyi too, and D. bigibbum, which unfortunately I haven't been able to source yet. All growing right on the trunks of trees.

Thanks again for all your great advice, and take care out there!

---------- Post added at 11:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:20 PM ----------

I have it on the side right now, and it is very secure, (I did bonsai back in the 60s as a teenager), but I was also concerned about light. But I think I will put a hanger on it and put it up higher, with the plant hanging down - thanks for the guidance (and enjoy the pickles!)

[davidg]

Hi Roberta. I know this is an old post, but on the subject of mounting, maybe you can give me some advice. I have recently started growing orchids outdoors on a tree. Most were small plants and they are mostly sending out new roots nicely. I had a larger Cattleya bowringiana growing in a pot that I bought earlier. It flowered last fall. However it has never shown any sign of new growth. I unpotted it and mounted it on the tree - it had a lot of dead roots which I left in place. It is still not showing any signs of growth and I am considering removing all the dead roots and remounting it with whatever live root I might find when doing this. What do you think?

[Roberta]

Hi, David -
First, that's great news about the plants that are rooting to your tree. With regard to the C. bowringiana... until it starts root growth, it doesn't matter much what you do... the plant is running on reserves. I just looked at one of my C. bowringiana plants - just now starting new growth, I don't see roots yet. So this is very likely the right time to get it mounted. The dead roots aren't hurting anything, especially in the air where you don't have to worry about rot. You could clean off the old velamin and leave the stringy core of the root - which can help to hold the plant in place, and may be able to provide a little hydration too. But if you can get it mounted now, the new roots are the ones that will grab the tree. (The older good ones will continue to to do their job, but won't grow onto the tree) So the problem may just be timing - these typically root once a year, so you just have to wait until it is ready to grow, and that time is very likely now.

[DirtyCoconuts]

stand outside holding the plant in one hand and the mounting method in the other....do not sleep....the second you see that root you DIVE onto the tree and strap it on!!!


HAHHAHA, id do exactly what Roberta said...generally new growth leads to new roots and that is the time to mount.

[davidg]

Thanks, I will do all that and we shall see!

[sjohn]

I lived in Singapore and Borneo for 20 years and have mounted 1000's of orchids a few hundred types.

I think it is best to mounted about 2/3 down the fern bark as sprayed moisture moves down, the roots will go both up and down. The plant on the other hand depends on the type. Vanda types like trichoglottis will crawl up and around, so will Cattleya group, while Phaleonopsis will stay the same place. The roots will seek lingering moisture whether up or down within or behind the mount.

Spaghnum with or without is a choice as with you can water less often but if you like to frequently spray your plants then without may be better. Vanda types in general do better without moss and a frequent spray with high humidity.

For mounting I usually put a small pad of moss behind the plant between the mount. Chiloschista on the otherhand do well on a small branch, no moss.

[Waterdog111]

Wow,four year old thread

[Leafmite]

Hello and welcome! I hope you will continue to be a part of our orchid forum.
Lately, I have been either mounting orchids or buying orchids already mounted so I was glad to see this older thread appear. Thanks!

Originally Posted by sjohn

I lived in Singapore and Borneo for 20 years and have mounted 1000's of orchids a few hundred types.

I think it is best to mounted about 2/3 down the fern bark as sprayed moisture moves down, the roots will go both up and down. The plant on the other hand depends on the type. Vanda types like trichoglottis will crawl up and around, so will Cattleya group, while Phaleonopsis will stay the same place. The roots will seek lingering moisture whether up or down within or behind the mount.

Spaghnum with or without is a choice as with you can water less often but if you like to frequently spray your plants then without may be better. Vanda types in general do better without moss and a frequent spray with high humidity.

For mounting I usually put a small pad of moss behind the plant between the mount. Chiloschista on the otherhand do well on a small branch, no moss.