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03-04-2019, 09:03 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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Also, I think there are several genera of orchid that are called Spider Orchids. Generally speaking, though, it overwhelmingly is used in reference to Brassia (or intergeneric hybrids that are mostly Brassia).
Until now, I've not heard Spider Orchid applied to Brassavolas, so that was certainly a source of confusion.
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03-04-2019, 09:20 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: PNW
Posts: 76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dollythehun
That's a Brasselova. Treat it like a catt. You can mount or pot in coarse mix. I have one both ways. If you love to water, mount it.
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Sooooo it's not really a 'spider orchid' ? Ya learn something new every day hanging around the forum! You guys are GREAT! I don't really like to water but if it's game for mounting I might try my hand at it. It's currently in repotme Cattleya mix but it keeps telling me it wants to be free of that darn pot. Maybe I'll split the difference and go for one of the wood slat hanging baskets lined with moss and catt mix. The roots scare me lol, just like my other catt. Am off to the Brasselova threads!
---------- Post added at 08:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:16 PM ----------
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrHappyRotter
Also, I think there are several genera of orchid that are called Spider Orchids. Generally speaking, though, it overwhelmingly is used in reference to Brassia (or intergeneric hybrids that are mostly Brassia).
Until now, I've not heard Spider Orchid applied to Brassavolas, so that was certainly a source of confusion.
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I should have just looked for the real pic first and posted, sorry about that. I'm clueless about spider orchids and Brassia so no harm done here! I'm doing my best just growing what I have, let alone trying to learn all the scientific names, genus, etc etc. Too many!
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03-04-2019, 09:28 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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Being in the Cattleya tribe, this plant (looks like Brassavola nodosa) needs to dry out between waterings, and so does very well mounted or in a basket. When mounting it (wait until you see new roots just starting) use any wood with rough, well-attached bark. Definitely no sphagnum between the plant and the mount. If you think that you need a bit of extra moisture to get it started, you can put a bit (only a small amount) of sphagnum over the top of the roots after you have attached it to the mount. I have found that Cattleya relatives really don't need, or particularly want, that extra moss but if you have a very dry environment maybe it could be useful. But basically, you want the new roots to grow onto the mount, not in the moss. (So make sure to mount it with the new growth against the mount, even if you think it looks better facing the other way... this is really important)
In summer when it blooms, it is fragrant at night... south of the border, it's called "La Dama de la Noche"
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03-04-2019, 09:59 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberta
Being in the Cattleya tribe, this plant (looks like Brassavola nodosa) needs to dry out between waterings, and so does very well mounted or in a basket. When mounting it (wait until you see new roots just starting) use any wood with rough, well-attached bark. Definitely no sphagnum between the plant and the mount. If you think that you need a bit of extra moisture to get it started, you can put a bit (only a small amount) of sphagnum over the top of the roots after you have attached it to the mount. I have found that Cattleya relatives really don't need, or particularly want, that extra moss but if you have a very dry environment maybe it could be useful. But basically, you want the new roots to grow onto the mount, not in the moss. (So make sure to mount it with the new growth against the mount, even if you think it looks better facing the other way... this is really important)
In summer when it blooms, it is fragrant at night... south of the border, it's called "La Dama de la Noche"
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Wow, thank you for that. I was still thinking 'moisture' and moss. Catts scare me. I just repotted one today and their roots are a mystery to me. They seem so fragile and finicky. That catt is in cattleya mix with just a tiny bit of sphagnum mixed in.
Okay, so the Brassavola is currently also in catt mix but I put a big dressing of moss over the top - should I remove that? I just know it's not happy though it's not showing anything off. Should I wait until I see signs of new foliar growth or just root growth before taking it out of the pot and mounting? I hate to disturb it as I just potted it a few weeks back but probably better now than later.
Are there any types of wood with bark on you recommend? I have tons of trees around me but I know when some dry the bark comes off. I have filbert, fir, plum, apple, beech, cedar. You think it works better than tree fiber slabs? I have forced air heat so it does get dry. I run a humidifier and a fountain and even boil water sometimes to get humidity back up fast. Thanks for all the knowledge, am trying to push a learning curve here. I'm all thumbs with catts and I don't know why.
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03-04-2019, 10:20 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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Get rid of the moss on the Brassavola. It does not need, nor want, all that wetness. When mounting, it's all about roots... when you see just the first little nubbin, that's the time. Only new roots will grab the mount. (The rest will hydrate the plant while it is getting established so they are important, but if they hang free that's fine.) If you just potted it, you could gently pull it out of the mix so it is mostly sitting on top (where it will still get plenty of moisture, but also air) - then you will be able to see when the new roots start.
For a mount, I have found that tree-fern fiber slabs tend to stay on the moist side - great for orchids that need lots of moisture, not so great for Catts. Cedar is certainly good - it is very rot-resistant. Any of the other fruit woods would probably be fine too. The trick with the Cattleya tribe is the drying out between waterings, with lots of air. I have pretty much stopped using pots for them altogether, favoring wood baskets with large bark (think of them as three-dimensional mounts) for the ones too big to mount. After watching them putt along slowly across the pot, really taking off when they hit the edge and spray roots all over the outside, I think they're telling me that they don't LIKE pots. Remember, in nature all of the members of the Cattleya tribe live on branches or sides of trees. How well-drained is the side of a tree? They get rained on then dry out in a few hours. That's what we try to achieve when we grow them, adapting to the fact that it doesn't rain on them as it does in nature. They still need intermittent water and LOTS of air.
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03-05-2019, 02:11 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: PNW
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Check. Taking moss out of pot and will pull him up gently to the top for a look see and leave him there until I can determine where he's at. Yup, I think you've got it about the no pot thing for catts. When I survey my little orchid kingdom that's the only plant in a pot that something tells me he ain't diggin' it at all. The other catt is in a very holey pot from top to bottom, holes spaced maybe 1/4" apart. This has been on my mind which is why I repotted today. I'll check my cedar tree and woods and see what I come up with, otherwise will buy a cedar mount. You've been wonderful with sharing your knowledge. I feel like I've got a better handle on this and maybe now I can make friends with my catts heehe.
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03-05-2019, 02:39 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberta
After watching them putt along slowly across the pot, really taking off when they hit the edge and spray roots all over the outside, I think they're telling me that they don't LIKE pots.
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Wow. I’ve seen that so often but never really thought about it. Roots always go nuts on the outside of the pot. Talk about a moment of enlightenment.
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03-05-2019, 04:53 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 30
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I went to school in Seattle but am from central Florida where I live now. I brought some of plants with me from here and the one issue I really had was keeping a few mounts happy. I had a hard time keeping my humidity up when I lived in that area. The cold killed any comfortable root growing air quickly. If you can raise the humidity, maybe a humidifier, the Brassavola will probably pick up! In my opinion, thought I’d cover myself
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03-05-2019, 06:59 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: PNW
Posts: 76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kreinalexander82
I went to school in Seattle but am from central Florida where I live now. I brought some of plants with me from here and the one issue I really had was keeping a few mounts happy. I had a hard time keeping my humidity up when I lived in that area. The cold killed any comfortable root growing air quickly. If you can raise the humidity, maybe a humidifier, the Brassavola will probably pick up! In my opinion, thought I’d cover myself
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Yup, humidity is a problem with my forced air furnace though it can be sopping outside and 80%. I keep it pretty darn warm inside at 70-72 but humidity is too low. I run a small humidifier and my pothos has discovered it. A few sneaky vines are dangling right down over it hanging straight instead of the usual hook curve at bottom lol. I can get another to put where my main orchid section is, my indoor fountain helps a bit but just a few numbers up. Thanks for the tip!
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07-21-2019, 07:09 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: PNW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberta
Get rid of the moss on the Brassavola. It does not need, nor want, all that wetness. When mounting, it's all about roots... when you see just the first little nubbin, that's the time. Only new roots will grab the mount. (The rest will hydrate the plant while it is getting established so they are important, but if they hang free that's fine.) If you just potted it, you could gently pull it out of the mix so it is mostly sitting on top (where it will still get plenty of moisture, but also air) - then you will be able to see when the new roots start.
For a mount, I have found that tree-fern fiber slabs tend to stay on the moist side - great for orchids that need lots of moisture, not so great for Catts. Cedar is certainly good - it is very rot-resistant. Any of the other fruit woods would probably be fine too. The trick with the Cattleya tribe is the drying out between waterings, with lots of air. I have pretty much stopped using pots for them altogether, favoring wood baskets with large bark (think of them as three-dimensional mounts) for the ones too big to mount. After watching them putt along slowly across the pot, really taking off when they hit the edge and spray roots all over the outside, I think they're telling me that they don't LIKE pots. Remember, in nature all of the members of the Cattleya tribe live on branches or sides of trees. How well-drained is the side of a tree? They get rained on then dry out in a few hours. That's what we try to achieve when we grow them, adapting to the fact that it doesn't rain on them as it does in nature. They still need intermittent water and LOTS of air.
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Just an update on the "spider orchid". It's really happy since I decided to put it in a small hanging slatted basket like you said you put your Catts in. When a new root came out I pounced and boiled some untreated coco mat fiber and shredded that up, lined a wee wooden basket I got on sale, then loaded with Catt mix bark and a teeny tiny bit of moss. I think it loves hanging next to the open window on sunny days and swinging a bit. It's pumped out a couple more new leaves but no blooms yet. That's ok, I'm patient. Thanks for all the tips! I decided to do a slat basket due to ease of handling and cleanliness in my smaller space and so far there are a ton of new roots plus leaves so something is making it happy!
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