Bermuda Invasion

[DebsC]

My greenhouse is in the back yard but it borders on our hay field which is Bermuda grass.

I don't know many of you are familiar with this type of grass but I can tell you, it's as invasive as all get out! I hate it!!!

It's growing under the walls and into the GH. There is a ditch about 12 inches deep around the outside of the GH and it's filled with gravel.

The greehnhouse floor has thick rubber belting that's about 72 inches wide. It's from an asphalt laydown machine and it's tough! Pea gravel on top of that.

The dang Bermuda is still getting in and it grows waist high by end of summer!!!!

Do any of you spray weed killer around the outside of your greenhouse? I don't see how it could get inside to do any damage but honey is afraid it might.

I see no ohter way to get rid of this stuff. Any suggestions?

Debs

[Ross]

All I can suggest is move to Michigan. We don't have that here

[smartie2000]

Geez...grass is the hardest thing to get rid of...

[Djarum Black]

Hey Debs,

I do have sympathy for you with the Bermuda Grass! I have the nasty stuff in my front yard. I have to go out every DAY and hand rip it out of the flower beds. Even when you think you have pulled it up by the root you really havent. There are runners under the ground you can't see It's a never ending nightmare!
Only suggestion I have for you is what I did in the backyard where my greenhouse is. I had Bermuda grass out there too! I went and rented a cultavator machine and I dug up the WHOLE yard! I went very deep and I tilled and tilled until nothing was left alive . Then I searched all the dirt clods by hand and i threw away every sign of root, grass, everything. Then I planted me so nice thick blade grass. St Agustine I think it's called..not 100% sure though. It was a pain in the butt, but it worked lol

[justatypn]

Bermudagrass is found extensively on lawns, golf courses, sports fields and arenas, reclamation areas, parks, coastal areas and pastures. The genus Cynodon comprises nine species with C. dactylon being the most widespread. C. dactylon is a serious weed in many crops. Bermudagrass has a fibrous, perennial root system with vigorous, deep rhizomes.

It's extremely hardy and will take a lot of work to keep under control. If it was something I would have to deal with I would take a vegitation killer and routinely go around your graveled ditch, saturation is important as these roots are endless and if well saturated the first few times, it will be easier to control. There rooting system lies deep within the soil. It may be time consuming but I would not use the veg killer inside your greenhouse, just a large amount of patience and pulling but to contain the outdoors minimal indoor/greenhouse maintainence will be required once under control. Let me see if I can do a bit or research and see if a salt type solution will contaminate the roots and die back, something of a thought for inside the greenhouse....

[justatypn]

Salt was not the choice of demise but copied this tidbit of web info for you...

HOW TO GET RID OF BERMUDA GRASS TURF

Many people would like to replace some or all of their lawn with more water-efficient landscaping, but don't know how to kill off Bermuda grass or similar turf types. Bermuda grass is very tough, and cannot be killed by simply not irrigating it. You can=t rip it out or dig it up, either, because the roots go deep. Covering it with a tarp or plastic sheets to deny it water and light also is very unlikely to work. In fact, the only practical way to kill these types of grass is by using a herbicide that kills plants on contact.

The most common herbicide for killing grass is glyphosate, sold under various brand names such as Roundup (Monsanto), Kleenup (Ortho), or Doomsday (General Control). Glyphosate will kill any plant it touches, so be careful when applying it. The good news is that glyphosate decomposes rapidly, so you can plant water-efficient trees and shrubs where the grass was.

You cannot kill Bermuda grass when it is dormant in the winter. Best times to kill it are Spring and late summer.

Prior to application, irrigate your grass so that it is green and growing, so that the herbicide will move through the entire plant and kill the roots. Apply the herbicide when the temperature is 80 degrees or above, and there is no forecast of rain. Follow the directions that come with the herbicide. Using more than is recommended will not kill your grass any faster. Two days after applying the herbicide, resume irrigating the grass.

Glyphosate will kill your grass in one to two weeks. If it still shows signs of life, a second application of the herbicide may be necessary. Dead turf can be removed by setting your lawn mower very low and "scalping" it, or using a power rake.

Glyphosate will NOT kill grass and weed seeds, so you may want to apply a pre-emergent herbicide after you have removed the grass. Pre-emergents will not harm growing plants or weeds. Do not use if you plan to grow wildflowers from seed, such as California Poppies or African Daisies.

Personally "round-up" is not the best on the market as it needs extreme heat to boost it in the butt. A total vegitation kill will be best, now this is merely for your rock ditch

[DebsC]

Michigan is just too cold for me! So I guess I better stay here in Arkansas and fight the dad blasted Bermuda!

Tilling it up won't work either cause like I said, our hay field comes right up to the back of the GH. Besides, honey would fall over in his tracks if I tilled up the whole hay field!!! Even though I'm tempted.

So I guess that leaves chemical distruction. I appreciate all that information. I had thought about salt, too.

This grass grew up the back wall last summer, behind a rack that I can't move and can barely squeeze my head into and the stuff was waist high!!!! It's gotta go!

So thanks everyone! You've helped me decide to become aggressive!

DebsC

[justatypn]

You go Debs, it will be a lot of work but well worth it...known to smoother not only what comes in its tracks but land owners as well...gl