Design and Build Your Own GH?
Login
User Name
Password   


Registration is FREE. Click to become a member of OrchidBoard community
(You're NOT logged in)

menu menu

Sponsor
Donate Now
and become
Forum Supporter.

Design and Build Your Own GH?
Many perks!
<...more...>


Sponsor
 

Google


Fauna Top Sites
Register Design and Build Your Own GH? Members Design and Build Your Own GH? Design and Build Your Own GH? Today's PostsDesign and Build Your Own GH? Design and Build Your Own GH? Design and Build Your Own GH?
LOG IN/REGISTER TO CLOSE THIS ADVERTISEMENT
Go Back   Orchid Board - Most Complete Orchid Forum on the web ! > >
Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-25-2007, 10:05 AM
HDCochran HDCochran is offline
Member
 

Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Oriental, NC, Zone 8a
Posts: 30
Default Design and Build Your Own GH?

I am trying to design and build a 12x12 greenhouse with a pressure treated wood frame and twin or triple wall polycarbonate glazing. I would greatly appreciate any knowhow from someone who has real experience.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-26-2007, 05:02 PM
terrestrial_man terrestrial_man is offline
Senior Member
 

Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Maria, California
Posts: 261
Default

Hello HD,
I have built a very inexpensive greenhouse using what materials I could find and afford at the time. My materials were: corrugated fiberglass panels, 2x2s, plastic sheeting, home insulation, and 50% ? saran cloth.

Also from 1968-1971 I worked in a commercial orchid farm and was the primary grower of all the non-cymbidium orchids and am familiar with that set up at that time.

On advising you there are specific issues you need to address before even considering construction:
1. Foundation and flooring
2. Orientation
3. Partitioning with designated growing
zones.
4. Height
5. Lower wall: glazed or covered
6. Benching: orientation, height, sub-bench areas
7. Included potting/storage area
8. Exterior environment
9. Blue print of greenhouse

I think that covers the basic considerations. OK. What comments do you have in these regards.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-26-2007, 05:27 PM
HDCochran HDCochran is offline
Member
 

Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Oriental, NC, Zone 8a
Posts: 30
Default My Plans

I've answered almost all of those questions. My main concerns now are three:

1. Warping of pressure treated studs and rafters leading to leaks around polycarbonate panels. Are kiln-dried after treating ACQ 2x4's enough better with respect to warping to warrant the extra cost? Are there other approaches to minimizing the warping?

2. Door and Window Vents I'd like to have a door as wide as possible between 4x4 posts on 4' centers; what is the cheapest mostly glass or polycarbonate door that will be weather tight and durable? Likewise, I'd like to put two roof vents between 2x4 rafters on 4' centers; what is the cheapest glass or polycarbonate awning window that will be weather tight and durable? Can a good carpenter make these with polycarbonate glazing?

3. Drawings or Blueprints I have made pretty good scale drawings (gable ends, side elevation, and plan) of the framing. Can I expect a contractor to be able to use these or do I need blueprints with all measurements specified? What is an inexpensive way to have blueprints made from my drawings?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-26-2007, 07:16 PM
Ross Ross is offline
Senior Member
 

Join Date: Sep 2006
Zone: 5a
Posts: 9,277
Default

Have you considered synthetic or composite 2x4s? For instance Trex or equiv.?
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-27-2007, 12:55 AM
terrestrial_man terrestrial_man is offline
Senior Member
 

Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Maria, California
Posts: 261
Default

#3. On the Blueprints. Many copy services have blueprinting services available. These may be less expensive than a commercial service.

#1: will have to check this out on the net.
#2: ditto. Have you considered a double venting system to bolster weather tightness?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-27-2007, 05:18 AM
terrestrial_man terrestrial_man is offline
Senior Member
 

Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Maria, California
Posts: 261
Default

HD,
Here is a site I found regarding warping/shrinkage. I think it answers your question.
click here> UFP: Products: ProWood ACQ Pressure-Treated Lumber: Dry
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-27-2007, 04:03 PM
terrestrial_man terrestrial_man is offline
Senior Member
 

Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Maria, California
Posts: 261
Default

OK. On the vents. I think your best bet is to purchase a pre-built.
Here is one site that show what is available:Greenhouse Exhaust Fans, Circulation Fans, Shutters, and other ventilation supplies from ACF Greenhouses
But because most heat loss occurs through the vents and the door I would frame the vent so that you can mount a internal vent cover that will completely seal off the vent "shaft" from the inside.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 02-27-2007, 04:09 PM
terrestrial_man terrestrial_man is offline
Senior Member
 

Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Maria, California
Posts: 261
Default

The door can be built to suit your needs.
I would go with the carbonate instead of glass. Also what is important is how the door is framed and the placement of insulating foam so that the contact of the door to the mantle is up against the foam.
My preference is to have a door close up against the foam rather than upon the foam as this latter way will degrade the structure of the insulation and render it useless in time. Think L <--- |door where L is the mantle the door closes into and where foam is placed there on L <--.
This would mean hinging would be inset and the door opens outward.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-12-2007, 02:59 PM
RobertT RobertT is offline
Jr. Member
 

Join Date: Feb 2007
Zone: 8a
Location: Raeford N.C.28376
Posts: 11
Default

One thing to look at is that treated lumber leaches fumes and contact with the treated lumber or water that has made contact with the lumber can cause damage to if not even kill orchids
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-12-2007, 03:24 PM
littlefrog's Avatar
littlefrog littlefrog is offline
Senior Member
American Orchid Society Judge
 

Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Mid Michigan
Posts: 944
Default

I don't know that the ACQ lumber would leach enough of anything to kill orchids... Possible though. I would go ahead and paint the entire interior (before any plants go in) with a high quality white exterior paint (alkyd or oil based), and go ahead and add a generous amount of the anti-mildew additive (you can buy it in little packets).

If you want to over-engineer (I usually do), to prevent warping you can double a 2x4. I use lag bolts (or lag screws, I suppose). It is cheaper than engineered lumber (or at least easier to get!). Heavy though. I used to use doubled 2x4s for building plant stands (and dorm room lofts), and you could have landed a plane on them.

You might want to consider looking around for metal greenhouse parts (hoops and purlins). They aren't that expensive, really, and a lot easier to use. I know that lots of people are giving away old greenhouses, look around. If you were near me, I'd be able to hook you up in a heartbeat.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
build, design, glazing, greatly, wall


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:39 PM.

© 2007 OrchidBoard.com
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO v2.0.37 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Feedback Buttons provided by Advanced Post Thanks / Like (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Clubs vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.