I bought the HFGH 6x8 in So Cal - Orchid Board

IngieBee · #1 07-05-2019, 05:15 PM

So I bought one. It's not up yet, I'm still trying to figure out where / how I'll set it up. My favorite spot is on a concrete slab, but how do you attach it? We always called the spot the "shuffle board" court though there is no sign the previous owners used it for that? It's next to the garden plot, which is only 13 x 13. I'd love to stick it on the dirt, but hubby would flip! LOL.

The other spot is very shaded, which would probably be OK here in So Cal. It's also farther from the house, which would make bringing electricity to it harder, and being shady may make solar harder.

So how do I attach it to a 60 year old HARD concrete slab that is uneven, sloped and cracked? And what do I do about a floor? How do I retain moisture if the floor is concrete?

So any ideas are welcome, but being that I'm not in the best of shape, the easiest and cheapest solutions will most likely be the best, LOL

WaterWitchin · #2 07-06-2019, 10:50 AM

Congratulations! I've always wanted a greenhouse at my home. Just never happens. So I know little to nothing about them, other than I want one.

I understand not being in best of shape, and easy/inexpensive very well. Could you set it at the edge of the concrete and use the big tie-down spiral things down into the dirt on two sides? Then 2x4 on other two sides? Drill in a couple of Tapcon screws?

IngieBee · #3 07-06-2019, 04:43 PM

Well, I've been thinking about it and it is definitely going to go on the shuffleboard Court. Now I have to even out the foundation so I'm planning on usingthe concrete Piers with wood on top for ease-of-use. On top of these I'll put four by fours off to the side so that they hang over to the edge of the concrete bottoms. I'll use Simpson ties to hold it on to the pier's wood. I'll then attach set a 2 by 12 by 8 directly to the four by four posts, after setting the lines/heights of each 2x12. The lower end should end up hanging in the air about 2 in so I'll put a another 2x6 or some such down to the ground and fill the empty space by attaching it to the 2 by 12.

I'll have to do something similar on the other two sides that slope downward. Then I'll line the interior bottom with some plastic 6mil I have. It's not uv resistant or anything, so I don't know how long it will last.

I'll either create a raised bed on the long sides with another 2x or something; dump a bunch of potting mix in there, and fill the center with crushed stone or else fill the whole thing with crushed stone.

Anyone have input on mixing a raised bed with orchids? Would I end up with a ton of pests and desease? Should I keep it exclusively for orchids?

Thanks for any input. Just thinking of tomatoes and strawberries in winter 😝

Ray · #4 07-06-2019, 06:09 PM

Tomatoes are a no-no, for sure. The plants emit ethylene, which is toxic to most orchids, and will - at the very least - blast the flowers.

I suggest that you build a raised, pressure-treated lumber foundation that elevates the structure a foot or more.

If you completely line the floor with plastic, how will the irrigation water drain?

Roberta · #5 07-06-2019, 06:34 PM

Getting the "foundation" level is absolutely critical or you are likely to end up at the last stage where the walls won't join. Pressure-treated lumber is excellent - much less likely to rot than redwood. I don't think that you have to raise it as much as a foot... I have one that uses two 2x4's (so height is a bit under 4 inches) since frost is not an issue. (It's mostly on cement but two sides do extend onto dirt, which made it easier to level) You can get shims from your favorite home-improvement store to aid with leveling. If you are running water and electricity to it, the pipes and conduit (assuming THEY are firmly attached some place) should hold it pretty well but if you can drill into the concrete and use some anchors to screw to the frame, that's better. Where you live, you do have to consider wind. A LOT of wind. In fact, if the fasteners for the glazing aren't super-solid you can add a bead of silicone sealer on the edges where the glazing meets the frame so that you don' t have to chase the panels. (Whether or not this is a problem depends on how it is designed... screws are strong, metal clips less so) As for drainage, a few spaces in the wood "foundation" should give it what it needs, I see no problem in leaving the concrete bare. (It doesn't need to be totally air-tight in our relatively mild climate)

IngieBee · #6 07-07-2019, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray

Tomatoes are a no-no, for sure. The plants emit ethylene, which is toxic to most orchids, and will - at the very least - blast the flowers.

I suggest that you build a raised, pressure-treated lumber foundation that elevates the structure a foot or more.

If you completely line the floor with plastic, how will the irrigation water drain?

Oh dear, had no idea about the tomato plants emitting ethylene! Thanks for that info!

Also, I was thinking of sealing off the floor to keep bugs out, leaving a hole with hardware cloth and bug screen. I can't seal it off with soil or anything... And I did want to capture humidity. Is that a dumb idea?

Roberta, I was also hoping it would seal out the cold air in winter. It gets into the high 20's here once in a while . I was planning on using concrete Piers, those small ones with the wood on top. Their weight, and that of the wood would be the primary securing mechanisms for resisting the wind. I'd put 4x4s in each corner and build the benches using them as part of their structure.

Thanks you two for all your invaluable input!

Ray · #7 07-07-2019, 09:12 AM

You'll really be better off if you can anchor it to the ground, and not rely entirely on the weight if the piers. Wind can be remarkably forceful.

Roberta · #8 07-07-2019, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IngieBee

Also, I was thinking of sealing off the floor to keep bugs out, leaving a hole with hardware cloth and bug screen. I can't seal it off with soil or anything... And I did want to capture humidity. Is that a dumb idea?

Roberta, I was also hoping it would seal out the cold air in winter. It gets into the high 20's here once in a while . I was planning on using concrete Piers, those small ones with the wood on top. Their weight, and that of the wood would be the primary securing mechanisms for resisting the wind. I'd put 4x4s in each corner and build the benches using them as part of their structure.

Thanks you two for all your invaluable input!

Those autumn Santa Ana winds can be very strong, and wreak havoc on anything that is lightweight and not firmly tied down.

Small drainage holes will not let in enough cold air to make a difference. You will have very few bugs through them either... I assume that you will have roof vents, those will let in more than any little drainage holes. If you don't, you'll cook your orchids. For that size greenhouse you should have two roof vents (use the openers that work on heat, that don't take electricity and don't need your attention) In summer, I use a big fogger to keep temperature down... our relatively low humidity makes them quite efficient. It's small enough that a 110v. electric heater (suitable for greenhouses) will be adequate. And a fan or two 24x7 to keep up air circulation is also important. So yes, you need to get electricity to the GH.

---------- Post added at 08:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:08 AM ----------

IngieBee, I sent you a PM

IngieBee · #9 07-09-2019, 12:42 AM

OK, ya'all convinced me I need to seriously anchor this thing. Home Depot as a Ryobi hammer drill for less than $50, and it gets good reviews, so it'll be affordable for me to take my time drilling out the holes. I'm not young anymore and 2 holes may be all I can do in a day, LOL

I do understand construction, so I don't think I'll have trouble getting it level. I've also already ordered an automatic window opener. I'm still at a loss on what I should do for my floors? So lining them with the sheet plastic I have on hand is not a good idea then? Should I get a weed barrier?

@Roberta, I PM'd you, but can't tell if it worked, LOL

@WaterWitchen FYI, the greenhouse coupon was for $199 but creating a foundation, adding the auto vent opener and doing the YouTube mods suggested will probably cost more (double the cost at least). After that, I'll likely add things over time as I can pay 😝

IngieBee · #10 07-09-2019, 03:04 AM

Lookie what I found!!!

This thing runs off ubc, which means solar, it can also have a hose hooked up to it and has a float valve so it can run without maintenance.... Well, I mean for an extended amount of time if you like LOL. When it's hot here, it's dry, so this thing should work well. Being ignorant on swamp coolers, I wonder if they can just sit inside the greenhouse, or if, since we need to maintain humidity, will it work all right if it were sucking in dry air from outside?

Aw shucks, I'm wrong, it runs off 110 house plug. Oh well...