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  #11  
Old 09-22-2012, 11:33 PM
NYCorchidman NYCorchidman is offline
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I want nice pseudobulbs! Should I repot again? Dendrobium Red Emporer Prince
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Sonya, I do not have species nobile, but many hybrids.
As far as I understand, temperature is the only cue for these plants. I don't think climate and location affect them much. As long as it is warm, they grow, and when it starts to get cool, they will stop growing and get ready for flowering.
Yamamoto webstie says how they manuplate the flowering period by controlling the temperature.
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  #12  
Old 09-22-2012, 11:36 PM
NYCorchidman NYCorchidman is offline
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I want nice pseudobulbs! Should I repot again? Dendrobium Red Emporer Prince
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafmite View Post
I have this same one, since spring. I am new to these but I think our weather confused it. My dendrobium went into a second growth mode (keiki's, new regular growths). Will these new growths develop normally if I cut off the water and fertilizer next month? Thanks for any help!
Sometimes, these plants start a new growth late in growing season. I don't know why.
These late grower will stop growing and mature rather short because when the autumn comes, the plant stops all growth.
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  #13  
Old 09-22-2012, 11:41 PM
NYCorchidman NYCorchidman is offline
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I want nice pseudobulbs! Should I repot again? Dendrobium Red Emporer Prince
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Previously bloomed canes on nobiles usually do not flower again simply because all the available spots (each node) had already been used.
Therefore, the only exception is when the previous flowering was not optimum. Say, not all the nodes produced flowers. Then those other nodes that didn't make flowers last season may or may not produce flowers.

My Oriental Smile Fantasy does this. It will bloom abundantly about ten nodes in the middle of very tall cane, then the top and bottom nodes will also make flowers later in season or the following season.
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  #14  
Old 09-22-2012, 11:47 PM
WhiteRabbit WhiteRabbit is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYCorchidman View Post
Sonya, I do not have species nobile, but many hybrids.
As far as I understand, temperature is the only cue for these plants. I don't think climate and location affect them much. As long as it is warm, they grow, and when it starts to get cool, they will stop growing and get ready for flowering.
Yamamoto webstie says how they manuplate the flowering period by controlling the temperature.
I see. Thanks for that info.
Actually that was sort of what I meant by climate - that somewhere it gets cool earlier, I didn't know if they would want the rest period to start sooner than somewhere it is still warm thru fall... Do you know if it's low night temps specifically, or over-all temperatures?
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  #15  
Old 09-22-2012, 11:47 PM
NYCorchidman NYCorchidman is offline
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when temperature gets low, watering should decrease or root rot can occur.

Even hybrids can take near freezing temperature although not recommended given that the plant is kept dry.

Visit yamamoto website for detailed information about proper care for these dendrobiums.

Do what they say and you'll find them very easy to grow and flower.

For spectacular bloom, first grow them as tall as possible (more nodes mean more flowers potentially).
Cut all fertilizer by early summer. Give them lots of light. I grow them in full sun and so does yamamoto nursery. Keep them cool (at least 58 F or lower) at night for at least about one month or longer.
When the temperature warms in the spring, the buds will open.
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  #16  
Old 09-22-2012, 11:50 PM
NYCorchidman NYCorchidman is offline
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I want nice pseudobulbs! Should I repot again? Dendrobium Red Emporer Prince
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aemiklain View Post
Thanks, yes it is nobile, after the first cool night it seemed the first leaves started to yellow. The only thing is I think they do get enough water, after a week it's still moist, which may or may not be a problem, probably in the winter it will be, that's why I'm thinking a medium bark, or maybe just water and not soak them.
Excellent drainge is a must. While they are in growth mode, staying moist at all time is beneficial, but once the temperature cools, moist mix will only promote root rot.
So I recommend medium bark or whatever mix that drains better and dries up faster.
Mix that stays wet for one week is not good for any orchids unless you're growing phrag.
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  #17  
Old 09-23-2012, 01:00 AM
WhiteRabbit WhiteRabbit is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYCorchidman View Post
when temperature gets low, watering should decrease or root rot can occur.

Even hybrids can take near freezing temperature although not recommended given that the plant is kept dry.

Visit yamamoto website for detailed information about proper care for these dendrobiums.

Do what they say and you'll find them very easy to grow and flower.

For spectacular bloom, first grow them as tall as possible (more nodes mean more flowers potentially).
Cut all fertilizer by early summer. Give them lots of light. I grow them in full sun and so does yamamoto nursery. Keep them cool (at least 58 F or lower) at night for at least about one month or longer.
When the temperature warms in the spring, the buds will open.
Thanks for the info.

Last edited by WhiteRabbit; 09-23-2012 at 01:03 AM..
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  #18  
Old 09-23-2012, 01:42 AM
NYCorchidman NYCorchidman is offline
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I want nice pseudobulbs! Should I repot again? Dendrobium Red Emporer Prince
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteRabbit View Post
I see. Thanks for that info.
Actually that was sort of what I meant by climate - that somewhere it gets cool earlier, I didn't know if they would want the rest period to start sooner than somewhere it is still warm thru fall... Do you know if it's low night temps specifically, or over-all temperatures?
It's mainly the night temperature (night temperature drop below 58F is a must for proper flower production for the hybrids and much lower for species), although when the night temperature falls that low, the day temperature usually isn't too high.

The yamamoto website shows day temp of around low 70 while cool rest is given. but it is the cool night temperature that must be met for abundant flowering.

I just put mine at a friend's unheated valcony where it gets very cold but not freezing. They bloom VERY nicely!
Now that he's moved, I have no place for cool treatment for my dendrobium nobile hybrids. I have no idea what to do now. lol
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  #19  
Old 09-24-2012, 12:00 PM
RosieC RosieC is offline
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Interesting thread as I have two of these for the first time this year and didn't know how to rest them.

From the sounds of it my greenhouse which gets down to 41F on winter nights (and a little warmer in the day, but on the coldest days not by much) will be about perfect for them. I had planned to keep them in the house but that sounds like it could be too warm (between 60F and 70F during the winter).

I've also been puzzled as to whether it's NO water, or LESS water. It sounds from this like less water and no fertiliser so I'll aim for that.

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for their feedback even though this isn't my thread as I have more idea what to do with mine now
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  #20  
Old 09-24-2012, 04:48 PM
NYCorchidman NYCorchidman is offline
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Good for you, Rosie! I wish I had a greenhouse or at least unheated glass covered balcony. I would have nobile hybrid of every color then I'm sure!!!

Yeah, keeping them in the house for winter rest is too warm for these types. They will either not flower or flower very poorly if at all.
Your greenhouse sounds like about perfect place for these plants for the winter. High light (even direct sun does no damage) and low temperature (lower than 58F at night) are the keys for abundant flowering.
One thing about watering is that some people think rest means no watering at all. No watering for the entire winter might as well kill them or nearly kill them with severely shrieveled pbs.
In nature, they still get lots of moisture in the form of early morning due. During the growth phase, they get monsoon rain poured down on them everyday.

At home culture, keeping them wet at lower temperature can invite root rot, so do water your nobiles while resting, but very sparingly so. just enough to keep the pbs plump. Some shrieveling (if this happens, soak the media and then drain, but do this on a sunny winter day so it dries out fast) is fine but it's best to keep them plump.

I water copiously in the morning of sunny days and repeat it every week until it gets freezing cold outside. then I water just little bit (little enough to wet the roots) at a time but often.
The point is give the plant constant moisture but not too much to avoid root rot during cold season.
If you don't want to care for them to this extent, then you can just water copiously about twice or three times a month depending on how cold or warm the winter gets. Make sure drainge is COMPLETE!
then as soon as buds start to appear, up the watering a bit as plants need water for buds and flower formation.
Being grown in the green house, the spring always comes early, so you will probably enjoy the nobile flower show come february or even late January.
Best luck to you!
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