Bifrenaria stefanae

[daemondamian]

Originally Posted by Frdemetr

Shadow, the bigger ones (genus Bifrenaria 'itself') are easy growers outdoors (at least in brazilian weather!), very high luminosity (~70% of full sun, they survive even under full sun!), perfect draining clay pots with an ad-mixture of tree fern fiber, carcoal and little stones. The roots will rot if too much humidity remains between the irrigations. The littles (former 'Stenocoryne' or 'Adipe') are harder to grow, they need ~50% of full sun luminosity, good draining clay pots with tree fern fiber only, but high atmospheric humidity. They demand a little bit more humidity in the roots, but not too much. All loves warm to hot temperatures (~20º to 35ºC) and avoid cold (<15ºC).
Frederico

Frederico,
so do yours get a 'winter' rest after the leaves open to induce flowering? I have Bifrenia harrisonae [correct spelling?] which has just put out two leaves and I'm wondering if I should let it dry out to induce flowering..

I actually don't if I've been watering it enough [?] the three older orginal bubbs have shrivelled quite a bit

[Frdemetr]

Cheryl, thanks for your advice. However, I think the differences are not only in color, Bifr vitellina flowers open a little bit more when fully matured, and labelum is trilobate (with 3 parts, I don't know the correct word in english) when the flower is dissecated (I have copryrighted material that I can not post in OB). Bifr vitellina flower is also smaller, and distribuition area more restrict (Bifr vitellina occurs in Espírito Santo, Minas Gerais and Rio de Janeiro states in southeastern Brazil, and Bifr stefanae occurs in those states and also in São Paulo and Paraná).
Damian, I don't think Bifrenaria harrisoniae needs a rest period, in southeastern Brazil it grows more or less continuously through the year, and blooms in the end of spring (november, for us). It's normal that the older pbulbs lose their leaves and became shrivelled. I think a little bit more organic material in the roots could help (I use 'bokashi', japanese product for bonsai that contains 'powder fish' and such smelly things, and AOSP 'orchids viagra', even more smelly). Watering a lot and waiting to dry until the next irrigation is a common rule, but depends the medium the plant is poted...
Frederico

[justatypn]

Trilobate is correct and yes I see what your saying as I incorrectly read your prev post about the bloom not fully opening. It is a gorgeous bloom and obviously an orchid of choice growing in your enviroment.

[Matthews]

The plant looks amazing! It looks like it is hardy to Brazil. I am just guessing though. You are the expert.

[Frdemetr]

Hello US folks, 'Oak Hill Gardens' has Bifr stefanae to sell (you can choose pot or mounted, this link, under the former name 'Stenocoryne'):
Oak Hill Gardens

Andy's has Bifr aureofulva (mine is in spike, I'll post soon)
http://www.andysorchids.com/picturef...-%20aureofulva

Andy's has also a variety of Bifr harrisoniae and Bifr thyrianthina
Andy's Orchids - Orchids Species - Bifrenaria - harrisoniae
Andy's Orchids - Orchids Species - Bifrenaria - tyrianthina

Frederico

[daemondamian]

Originally Posted by Frdemetr

Damian, I don't think Bifrenaria harrisoniae needs a rest period, in southeastern Brazil it grows more or less continuously through the year, and blooms in the end of spring (november, for us). It's normal that the older pbulbs lose their leaves and became shrivelled. I think a little bit more organic material in the roots could help (I use 'bokashi', japanese product for bonsai that contains 'powder fish' and such smelly things, and AOSP 'orchids viagra', even more smelly). Watering a lot and waiting to dry until the next irrigation is a common rule, but depends the medium the plant is poted...
Frederico

Thanks Frederico for your very vaulable and useful information . It's great that the internet can put in touch someone who is growing an orchid in a foreign country with someone who has the orchid growing
naturally in their country