Growing paphs but not getting blooms

[Dulcinea]

I used to be able to bloom these plants. Suddenly 8 or 10 years ago I couldn’t get any blooms. They are grown with the same amount of light as phals, temps 55° night, 65+° days. Kept on the damp side in bark. I’ve given all but two away. I don’t even remember what they are but I have also purchased two new ones. I’d really like to grow them well. The new ones are malipoense and Sugar Suite, in bud and blooming. Any suggestions?

[Paphluvr]

How large are the two older plants and when were they last repotted? I assume your temperatures are your winter temps. Might be a bit chilly for some species/hybrids. What about photoperiod? Are they exposed to seasonal day-length changes or are they grown under lights? Just some ideas as to what could be causing them not to bloom.

[Dulcinea]

They are three or 4 growths each. The plants just went inside the growing area for the winter. The lights are on 15 hours per day plus a south facing angled skylight. When the sun is out it gets much warmer than 65°. My only option is to open the door during part of the day in spring and fall. They were inside until two weeks ago. They were in medium mottled shade all summer with all the orchids. They start out in the spring under shade cloth for a couple of weeks.

I honestly can’t remembered when I repotted them. Maybe last year or the year before. They are not large leaved orchids. I usually check all orchids spring and fall for replanting. I didn’t need to replant many this year. These two just get shifted to the side. They are fed along with the others the MSU fertilizer. The phals next to them bloom like crazy. These are under regular Florescent lights. The rest of the orchids, cats, Blc, lc, are under different lights. Same timers and the rest of the orchids, bulbous, Chinese cymbals., etc sit to the sides and edges of the bright lights.

[Paphluvr]

I think the thing that strikes me most is that you say "Suddenly 8 or 10 years ago I couldn’t get any blooms" and yet the plants are only three or four growths. In that length of time I would expect them to be much larger, even if only putting on only one new growth per year. How were the root systems when you repotted them? In my experience, the biggest factor in a plant not growing and thriving is a poor root system.

[Dulcinea]

Sorry to be unclear. After I gave all my paphs away I purchased two about 4 years ago. They have never bloomed.

[Optimist]

Originally Posted by Dulcinea

Sorry to be unclear. After I gave all my paphs away I purchased two about 4 years ago. They have never bloomed.

I also have had a bit of "paphs not blooming" problems. I got into orchids again after losing most of my collection-- all but 5 including one paph which bloomed once and never bloomed again or even had a second growth. Avalon Druid, (Paph. Avalon Mist x Paph. druryi). It was strange to me that it could just sit there not doing anything and yet also not die. It was like it was in a state of hybernation or something.

So I am getting into orchids again. I have several types, but I want to get really good at paphs and phrags. I made some changes to their care. I got those pots with the slits on the side (clear) from re-pot me. I got 'seedling' size orchiata bark, mixed it with other bigger bark. I put a top dressing of worm casings on the paphs and phrags to emulate natural dirt and bug activity, and I top dressed with glacial rock dust, micorrhizae and Osmacote (I apply the powders with a paint bush). I raised the light level (using a cannabis-style grow light with Veg and Flower settings, which I put on both veg and flower). I am thinking of perhaps getting deeper pots as well. I wanted to specifically emulate a few things. Paphs (and phrags) are not terrestrial, they are semi-terrestrial. They anchor onto clefts in rocks, and the roots are surrounded with leaf litter, and they usually have rain waters running down the bank where they are. They are closely aligned with rocks. I think it is limestone in particular. The rock dust is a way to give them some rock runoff. Lots of the ground dwelling cattleyas too need the rock runoff. (Brazilian Schillerianas for instance, have nearly the same care as Indian paphs and phrags). The mottled tropical paphs are a bit different, but they still are on rock floors surrounded by leaf litter.

Within a month I have a new growth on my "Zombie" paph. Tiny, but hopeful. Although I did several things, the light made the most difference, I think.

The first thing I noticed was that the leaves became glossy and more healthy looking. A new leaf started from the top. (no spike though yet). About a week ago I noticed the tiny new growth, and today it is about 3/8ths of an inch long. I also see a new root descending from nearly the same area.


so-- reading through paph care for a while, I find that the main answer is that you need to change your care. Blooming issues are mostly solved by using the right light. (A Druri will take more light than a mottled paph though). Photo of tiny new growth start.

[camille1585]

Following this thread, I have the same problem with Paphs, except that I've never been successful with them! They bloom once every 3-5 years.... Meanwhile the Phals around them happily bloom year after year.

Dulcinea, do you know what changed in your environment/conditions back then? Or do you think the problems are purely cultural?

[Dulcinea]

I don’t know! I’ve tried to figure it out but everything is the same. Heat, water, light, summer conditions. Someone must know something I don’t. I’m surprised there are no growing/blooming posts coming up in answer.

[estación seca]

Mine get natural light cycling. 15 hours year-round might be an issue. Look up malipoense for climate information. Look up the ancestors of Sugar Suite on orchidroots.com and read about their climate requirements. The group of Paphs with malipoense grows differently than the waxy, shiny bulldog types.

[Paphluvr]

E S's comment about the lighting cycle is another thing that resonated with me. I grow my Paphs indoors year round and have no problem blooming most of them. Blooming can be induced by changes in temperature and/or changes in daylength. In nature, especially here in Michigan, these happen simultaneously in the fall. By bringing them inside and putting them under lights for 15hrs/day they may not be receiving the short days they need to initiate bloom.

On the opposite side of the state.