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12-30-2018, 08:49 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 15,336
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Consider semi-hydroponics. They take to it very well.
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12-30-2018, 11:17 AM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Zone: 6a
Location: Kansas
Age: 70
Posts: 5,280
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I agree. ^^
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01-01-2019, 04:50 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Zone: 9b
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,844
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If your plant looks like the last photo, it is on its last legs. The only way to save this is to remove all the roots (rotten roots are easily found by squeezing them and finding them soft). Then cut the old leaves off at the top of the last BB, keeping the new growth. Then put in a quart Zip Lok bag with a handful of damp mix and seal the bag. Stand upright in a warm place in the house (no direct sun) and keep your fingers crossed. An advanced grower might be able to bring this back, but do not lose hope if it does not make it for you.
If you are serious in learning how to repot Cyms in the future, send a request to goldcoastcymgrowers@gmail.com and they will send you the repotting instructions they use in their potting clinics. Several members of this Forum have found these instructions very helpful.
A few tips for the future:
1) Never over-pot a Cymbidium, even one in good health and never one with poor roots
2) Use a small to medium bark but keep in mind where you live.
3) Always remove rotten roots when repotting a division.
Good luck 
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01-01-2019, 08:33 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Zone: 7a
Location: North Plainfield, NJ
Posts: 2,831
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I think I know where you bought this plant. The ones I received were not in good condition either.
As several have commented, Cymbidiums do not want to dry out at all. They need very bright light (though in this condition, somewhat lower than normal is OK).
Temperature range you have is fine for a plant that needs to recover & grow up. Once it reaches blooming size, you will need to get it into brighter light** and with more of a temperature differential between day & night. In the day time, any temp will do, but you need cool nights. Optimum would be 65-80 daytime, and 50-55 nights.
** Here in NJ, I grow mine outdoors in full sun from mid/late April till first frost.
There are differences of opinion concerning potting mix. In CA, the mix is usually some combination of coconot coir, bark & perlite. I prefer a European style terrestrial mix (3 pts chunky peat, 2 pts composted cow manure, 1 pt bark & 1 pt perlite).
Good luck,
__________________
Kim (Fair Orchids)
Founder of SPCOP (Society to Prevention of Cruelty to Orchid People), with the goal of barring the taxonomists from tinkering with established genera!
I am neither a 'lumper' nor a 'splitter', but I refuse to re-write millions of labels.
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01-02-2019, 12:40 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Zone: 9b
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,844
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In order for any orchid to grow and thrive, it has to have viable roots to support the mature growths. There are no viable roots on these BBs if the last photo shown is the actual condition of the plant. The only new roots which will occur when a plant is this far down, is on the new growth. Encourage that and the plant may be saved. New roots sufficient to support a plant, do not grow on old BBs once they have lost their leaves.
As to different mixes to use, ask 10 growers and get 12 answers! You need a fast draining mix for your environment. The mix in California has gone away from ground coir to a mix of varying sizes of fir bark and coco husk of varying sizes with Perlite. The other alternative gaining lots of popularity is Orchiata, also a bark, in different sizes,
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01-03-2019, 05:40 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 138
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My Cymbidiums do not like terrestrial mix (er potting soil)...
They get potted in fine fir bark / sphag / perlite / charcoal - which tends to not dry out, but gets plenty of air.
They definitely like to be fed when they are growing too. I tend to underfertilize and don't get much new growth as a result.
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