Cyms keep rotting

[DelawareJim]

I don't understand what I'm doing wrong here. I usually score a couple of regular Cyms in late fall early winter from my local orchid society raffle. I give them the coolest sunniest spot I have and keep them on the dry side until temps get above freezing when they go outside, usually May. I keep them under a honey locust tree that gives them dappled sun/partial shade all day. I continue to keep them on the dry side to reduce any chance of rot and they reliably start new growths and then some time in July they completely collapse to rot. All mature bulbs become an outer husk filled with water and the roots all got to mush. The undeveloped new shoots fall out of the pots and I through the whole mess away.

I don't have any problems at all with the few Asian Cyms I have.

So what am I doing wrong? It's driving me crazy. I'm thinking of putting one in straight LECA in a clay pot as soon as I get it just to see if I can get them through the summer.

Cheers.
Jim

[orchidsarefun]

if you have ruled out a bacterial/fungi/viral infection, then it may be a worm that is attacking the bulbs.
I read about it a while back when I had an amaryllis problem.....and its possible that it also attacks cym bulbs. You are perpetuating the life cycle I think by supplying the "food" every year.

Narcissus Bulb Fly

[RJSquirrel]

Your problem might be the Honeylocust trees which are particularly prone to Thyronectria canker, Cytospora canker, and Kaskaskia cankers. The fungi invades stressed trees. This host fungi has many insect and mite problems (including borers, web worms, spider mites). Ganoderma root rot is another problem seen frequently on honeylocust trees. Ganoderma is found in the soil around many different types of trees, but usually does not cause problems. When a root or trunk area near the ground is injured, the fungus can enter the tree and cause damage.
I might just be up in the trees on this but it could be a possibility as cyms do use a predominantly soil based medium and they are under a tree that is prone to fungal problems.

[DelawareJim]

Well, desperate times call for desperate measures. Last night after work, I pulled the two plants, cut out as much of the dead bulbs and roots as I could and replanted in straight LECA. At this point they're so far gone I have nothing to lose.

The medium was medium bark and Promix potting soil that was so saturated it looked like they were standing in water even though they haven't been watered in two weeks. There wasn't a live root in either pot. I had to leave a few roots on the plants just so there was something to anchor them.

So as I said above, I cleaned them best I could, potted them up in straight LECA; one in a new clay pot and the other in a clean plastic Cymbidium pot, gave them a good drench with 250 ppm KelpMax to stimulate new roots, and set them in the garage where it's warm and dry as we're expecting rain for the next couple of days.

Keeping my fingers crossed.

Cheers.
Jim

[SJF]

I hope that they make a comeback for you and live on to bloom beautifully

[Cym Ladye]

Jim,

Contrary to some public opinion, Cyms do not grow naturally in what we most commonly think of as "soil" i.e. "dirt", nor do they do well in a saturated mix. Those species which do live in the ground, live in leaf detritus and loam which results in a very loose, fast draining media. There are others which are lithophytes and attach to cracks in limestone rocks. The most common mix in cultivation is light media with a base of fir bark and coarse perlite or CHC and coarse perlite.

That said, your loss of pseudo bulbs was probably due to a saturated mix or the plant standing in water and lack of air flow. You are on the right track with a light, aerated mix and a minimal amount of water for the time being. Hopefully, you still have some leafless BBs to help support the green leaved bulbs, if there are any so new roots can form on the new growths.

I have actually never heard of such a gross loss on Cyms so quickly. Perhaps in the future, when you win a Cym off the table, you should make a deal with another club member to swap it for a genus that does better for you.

Cym Ladye

[DelawareJim]

Well the smaller of the two plants with 4 leaves on 2 small bulbs is starting to show signs of a new growth, so that one may be salvageable. Naturally, it's a NOID. The larger on is still collapsing and has completely lost all leaves. The 2 remaining P-bulbs are shriveling and turning brown, so I think that one is toast. It was a Valley Flower 'Cherry Ripe' so it's a bit disappointing to lose it. Luckily these didn't cost me anything so I'm not out any pocket money. I think the next one I pick, I'll just try repotting in straight LECA straight away and experimenting until I get it right. My wife and I love the flowers, so I am determined to come up with a cultural programme that works for me.

Cheers.
Jim

[cbuchman]

Jim,
Though I don't think it will make you feel any better, I have similar problems, though mine are with miniatures. I summer outside and often lose new growths to rot. I think it is the rain getting into the new growths. They just go to mush overnight. So I think I'll move them back indoors or under cover as soon as I can. I'm having better luck with a new Chinese Cym which seems to be less prone to this sort of thing, at least so far - I've only had it a few months.

[Cym Ladye]

Carrie,

Your problem of rotting new growths is quite prevalent with increased moisture and a lack of air movement. You might experiment with putting the plants outdoors in more open areas with more sun and, aside from rain which you cannot help, always water in the early part of the day to allow the growths to dry out.

Some growers also say that high levels of fertilizers staying in the young growths can also cause them to burn and then rot out.

CL

---------- Post added at 11:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 AM ----------

Originally Posted by DelawareJim

...... My wife and I love the flowers, so I am determined to come up with a cultural programme that works for me.

Cheers.
Jim

Jim,

One last effort on the shriveled BBs if they are not mushy. Remove all the roots but keep the bulbs attached. Place them upright in a quart zip lok plastic bag with a handful of damp mix and seal. Keep them in the house in a warm spot (no direct sun) and see if they still have the strength to sprout. If so, you win! If not, you probably have done all you can do but have learned from the experience.

Good luck,

CL

[cbuchman]

Thanks Cym Layde! I'll give it a try. It could be the Fertilizer too as I've been using oscomote - no More!