a couple of cym' questions

[PJG]

Thanks to begin with.

I'm in San Diego, to start with.

They are pots in pots that drain.
Images from Dec., and today.
Last Dec', I bought 3 cym' from Home Depot (or rescued)

They've been outside in a roofed patio. Light but no direct sun.

After the flowers stopped I cut the spikes.

Now, I'm just letting them do their thing, a little water, (raised off the ground, not sitting in water.

But, there are new sword like bulbs/leafs but a lot of the other leafs (long leafs) are browning at the top (that I've clipped), and some are falling and bending (still green) while I've noticed some browning along the leaf as well. I picked one up and the pot was as solid as a rock, repot? What to use to fill?

Summary,
Brown leaf tips.
Some browning along a couple of leafs.
New growth,

I'll give you more later. Any educated guesses?

Top five photos from around Dec.
bottom five photos, just taken July 18

[JW2250]

Well it looks like there might be some bark rot in the pot, according to the dying bulbs and, browning tips usually means over fertilising.
Pot mix? Orchid bark (large screened size), cocunut husk cubes, mid sized larva rock, pelleted fowl manure, blood and bone, pebbles on top of the mix.

[WhiteRabbit]

my cyms are potted in bark mix - chunky (medium), and quite fine fir bark, some perlite, pumice, styro pnuts

chc should also work well (some mix chc and bark) - so long as there is pretty good moisture retention, and very good drainage

I leave your other questions for more knowledgeable growers than myself

gl!

[Cym Ladye]

It looks to me as if you are not giving the plant enough light. Leaves will break easily when there is not enough sunlight for them. If there is no more than one back bulb on each plant, I would not be concerned but you might want to pot up the one in the green plastic.

You can repair the leaves by taking a twist tie and gently securing a broken leaf to one next to it. Often, the bend will heal on its own. At least you will not have to trim it so it is not dragging on the ground.

I also have to ask if you have a kitty who likes your orchids? I have seen leaves broken like this from animals walking through the plants.

Are you hosing down the leaves? They look a little dusty.

Brown leaf tips can occur not only from excess fertilizer going to the tips when you water a dry plant, but also from poor roots and a general lack of water absorption. Also, just plain lack of water can cause tip burn, which I do not think is your problem, but without seeing the condition of the roots, it is difficult to diagnose this.

I hope this helps but remember, "ask 10 different people a question and you will get 12 different answers". You will just have to figure out what will work best for you in your environment.

Cym Ladye

[PJG]

Thanks for all your responses. Sorry for not getting back, been busy.

The third photo from the top left shows I had the cym's in a semi circle. I thought they were getting enough light, but anyway I moved them to get some direct light not much as the sun moves (not burning). They've been outside under a patio since I bought them.

I tied the bent leafs to others or used wood splints.

I cleaned the leafs. Sprayed with water. White paper towel turned pretty much black.

I stopped all watering until today, and gave each one a nice (draining) water. Roots should've gotten wet.

I had been spraying the leafs (water bottle) Should I continue now I've cleaned them up?

I haven't repotted the green pot, just haven't had time. Will it matter doing repotting now, new growth at the back but no spikes? Or can you repot anytime?

No cat/kitten. But they all continue with new growth.

Will gladly take more suggestions.

[Cym Ladye]

You are safe to repot and or divide in your area until the first of August, although the earlier you finish, the better. I will not finish all I have to do until the first of September, and I am further north than you and get colder sooner. This does not allow as much time for the plant to get established as one would desire.

If you have the option, use a full spray of water with your trusty finger at hose end or a water wand each time you water/fertilize. Bottle spraying Cyms generally does not get all the dust off and tends to lead to crown rot in my experience.

Are you fertilizing? If not on a weekly/weakly basis, you might try a slow release as Nutricote balanced 13-13-13.

There are many outstanding hobbyist Cymbidium growers in the San Diego area and I would strongly recommend you seek them out for hands on information. The San Diego Branch of the CSA (Cymbidium Society of America) is home to many of them as is the Torrance Branch. Just Google the Cymbidium Society of America and follow the links.

Good Luck and happy growing,

CL

[PJG]

Thanks.
Before I go out and buy the 13-13-13.

I have a 20Ib bag of Vigoro 10-4-10 unopened in the garage.
It says Citrus & Avocado plant food.

Will that work, or should I just go and get what you suggested, 13-13-13.

[Cym Ladye]

There are as many different views on fertilizers and their components as there are fertilizers on the market! We have had many discussions on this forum on it. Read all you can to become more informed on all the aspects of the needs of orchids. I only gave you a VERY simple and easy solution but would encourage you to delve deeper into the topic.

However, I would not use a formula specifically made for citrus as the requirements are different in the micro nutrients needed for orchids.

CL

[PJG]

Thank you.

I'll just go and get the 13-13-13.

Like you said, there have been many discussions. That's good, but in the end confusing.

I'll get into this over the next couple of days and let you know how I do. Thanks again.

[JW2250]

I would check the micro nutrients in the Citrus mix and ascertain if any were detrimental to cymbidiums or not and whether the time of application is acceptible, ie growing or dormant. A chemical is a chemical, after all.

I would not apply without investigation and investigation may prove fruitful, no pun intended.