Help! Yellowing, droopy cym.

[NewBloom]

Cym Ladye,


Should I unpot the plant go over the roots again? I did trim off some roots when I repotted in May but not as aggressively as you suggested.

At this point, I feel like I've got nothing to lose in repotting a 2nd time this year since doing nothing might mean the situation will get worse.

Back in May, there were new roots growing and the old ones had a dense, spongy texture but they weren't soft. The roots didn't reach the bottom of the pot. There was a 1-1 1/2" gap between the side walls of the pot and the roots. (The pot it was in from 02-10 to 05-11 had a more squat shape). But if I understand you correctly, that's still too big of a root system?

I poked around the mix gently this afternoon to see if I could find any clues at the upper layer but there was nothing. Of course further down could be worse. I didn't want to disturb the plant more until I'd figured out a definite course of action.

If I do repot again, what type of care should I give the plant to help it recover? I have KLN and Superthrive on hand.

I truly appreciate all the advice. If it's indeed a root/nutrient problem then I'm a step further in knowing what I'm dealing with.

Side note: when my gardener friend did the original division and potting in 02-10 he didn't trim the roots either. So this fits with Cym Ladye's theory of root problems because the plants never took off.

[NewBloom]

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

Found my pic!

Now that's what I aspire to. Though, it kinds of makes me feel bad when I think of my poor guy outside.

Please post more photos of your cyms in your album.

[Cym Ladye]

NewBloom,

If you will contact me privately, I will send you the Repottiing guide we use for the annual Hand's On Workshop put on by our Cymbidium Society here in California. It was published in an issue of the Cymbidium Journal last year and I think it will answer many of your new questions.

Cym Lady

[NewBloom]

Thanks. I sent you a message.

[Cym Ladye]

NewBloom,

No message has come through from Orchid Board.

CL

[NewBloom]

I'll try again.

[orchids3]

New Bloom,
Let me tell you what works in Jacksonville Florida.
Have around 2500 cymbidiums and have been growing them and flowering for the past 20 years at this location. Potting Material: Stalite Gravel - 100% top dressed with diatomite, treefern fiber and "50/50 crushed seashell and granular lime". The lime seashell is one of the most important tips I am giving you. Water: I mist twice a day and sit my plants in 3/4 inch dish of water. (Water will rot them unless you do not use lime)Misting before direct sun and after direct sun - turn it off if its is raining. Light: My plants are in a shade house with 30% shade cloth all year.

It is best to select "Heat tollerant or Warm Tollerant" cymbidiums but the misting helps to cool the collection and some of the marginal plants will bloom.

	Mistking Looking for a misting system? Look no further. Automated misting systems from MistKing are used by multitude of plant enthusiasts and are perfect for Orchids. Systems feature run dry pumps, ZipDrip valve, adjustable black nozzles, per second control! Automatically mist one growing shelf or a greenhouse full of Orchids. See MistKing testimonials

[Cym Ladye]

Orchids3,

Have you ever measured the natural ph of your water and the ph coming out of the pot?

[orchids3]

My pH is6.8 to 7. Measured at the resevoir under the pot. The lime and seashell buffers the water to this level. Rain water is slightly acid depending on what industrial contaminations it has in it. No lime - lower pH and rotten roots. If water is slight acid the Calcium Carbonate (which is what lime and seashell is) does release some calcium and raises pH in the process.

[NewBloom]

Orchids3,

The tap water here has a ph of 6.8.

Are there situations where the seashell and lime shouldn't be used or do not provide a benefit? Is oyster shell an adequate substitute for sea shell?