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06-30-2007, 12:27 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Age: 32
Posts: 255
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cym trouble
I've got these small cym orchids, i guess you could call them seedlings, anyway i've had past problems with them, but they seemed to be alright. I checked them today and two seemed to have wet roots. So i checked the media, but that is dry. What is wrong with my orchids? Have they got a fungus? What should i do?
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06-30-2007, 01:20 AM
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Hi Stefan,
Post a picture of the root problem if possible. I'm not sure I understand what is wrong. The roots are wet? Are they funny colored? Do they produce a foul odor? Are they moldy?
Please give more info, I'm sure someone can help you!
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06-30-2007, 05:52 AM
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the roots seem to be retaing in the water, and they are starting to go a greeny color, but i repoted the plant when i got it
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07-04-2007, 10:41 AM
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Hi , It sounds like the roots have been too wet due to old mix and are rotting Are the plants starting new growth ? Gin
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07-05-2007, 09:22 AM
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Hi Gin,
The roots did get wet a bit too much, i wasn't shielding it enough from the rain, so i've repoted it..again. lol
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09-06-2007, 09:11 AM
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it has been a while scince i repotted the cym, so i checked it today. lots of the roots were rottens so i cut them off. now it only has 4 roots! its getting new shoots but it doesnt look like its getting any roots. Should i be worried??How can i get more roots on the plant?????
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09-11-2007, 03:20 PM
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Re: Cymbidium Seedling Problems
Stefan:
Couple of things that come to mind, but I might ramble a bit...
1. What are you using for potting media? With small cym. seedlings I usually go with long fibre sphagnum; you will need to repot more often, but it is slightly antibacterial and will retain an open form. It is also highly absorbant and will retain moisture well--though this goes two ways and it takes a bit of effort to rewet should it ever become bone dry.
2. What did the roots of your seedlings look like before you repotted them? Any that were brown/sponge-like I am assuming you removed? "Normal" cymbidium roots should be a nice white, tan, or greenish color, in active growth they will have bright green to light green tips that end in a distinct point. Inactive roots will have a more blunted root tip, but it will usually be a medium green in color. If you were to cut into one of these roots it would have a nice green/white color all the way through, with a tougher white core.
3. Cymbidiums differ in root production; some species/hybrids put out new root growth as they are in the process of making new growth (in my experience ensifoliums and "terrestrially" occuring cymbidiums follow this habit), while other species/hybrids make up new growth first and then put out new roots to add extra moisture & mineral uptake (quite a few of the complex hybrids in my collection do this). There are exceptions to every rule, so it just depends on the habit and culture of your plant.
All that being said, under the circumstances described, I would most likely do the following:
Remove affected seedlings from their current media and allow to dry a bit in a warm (not hot) shaded area with plenty of air movement. Examine the remaining roots, any that are collapsed, give to touch, rotted or broken, I would trim with sterilized equipment. Dust the cut ends with cinnamon, ground sulphur or your choice of antibacterial, and allow the wounds to dry for 24 hours or so. I would also remove the dead brown leaf sheaths from any existing pseudobulbs if they are present. This will expose existing eyes and encourage their growth, and in some cases encourage additional root growth from existing pseudobulbs. I would repot the plants in either long fibre sphagnum or a 50/50 blend of coir fibre and perlite, utilising a small narrow pot (I use Anderson band pots). Whatever media you use, make sure that it is premoistened. After repotting place your seedlings in a medium warm area (shoot for 60~65F) with shade and good humidity and sufficient air movement. I would not water the seedlings for 8-10 days, unless the media is bone dry (if you are using band pots, feel the media through the bottom of the pot...if it's dry, water the media only, not the foliage). You may also occasionally mist the foliage of your plants, keep in mind that you want the leaves dry by night, and that this is to increase humidity around the plant, not to water the plant. You should begin to see root growth in 4-6 weeks, at which time you should begin a more regular watering schedule, and application of nitrogen rich fertiliser.
I hope that this helps a bit...when I figure out photo posting here I will post some cym. seedling pictures to further illustrate. Good growing,
Adam
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09-12-2007, 05:04 AM
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thank you adam,
this has really helped. The roots arn't green, but i spotted a new one growing, but i will still do what you said. The only problem is the heat at the moment because it's really cold..lol
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09-14-2007, 11:52 AM
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Cymbidium seedling pictures link
Stefan
Here are a few cym seedling pics; you can see new root development and what I am using for potting. The backbulb was potted up about 2 months ago, I knocked it out of its pot so you can see the root development. The seedling is in the same type of pot, also in long fibre sphagnum; this batch was potted on from smaller flats in May. All of the root growth that is seen from the bottom of the pot has occured since then.
Hope the pics help out a bit.
Adam Cymbidium examples I pictures from home & garden photos on webshots
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