Cymbidium pot sizes

[bullsie]

I am just beginning to grow Cymbidiums. Well, let me clarify. I am an expert at killing Cymbidiums and just now starting to actually keep them alive and grow them. Ok, that's better!

I see so many Cyms grown in tall pots and wonder if this is something I should keep in mind when I transplant mine - when the time comes.

Are tall narrow pots better for them?

Appreciate!

[Cym Ladye]

Bullsie,

There will be many ideas on this subject depending on the type of Cymbidium you are growing. A VERY SIMPLE rule of thumb is to select a pot that will allow 2" of potting medium to exist between the edge of the division, which is centered in the middle of the pot, and the edge of the pot. Remove 1/2 of all the roots on the division as well as any rotted (mushy) roots so that the old, usually broken roots will not take up growing space for the new root growth.

That being said, in over 45 years of growing Cyms, I have yet to find that plants do better in tall pots with one exception, that being with the small growing, Asian species due to their large diameter roots in comparison to their miniature sized bulbs.

CL

[bullsie]

CL, Thank you! That was very informative for me. I am used to Cattleyas and potting them is far different than your description of doing a Cymbidium. This is excellent!

[Des]

Bullsie ,I have been growing cymbidium hybrids in deep pots for many years and find i not only get better root growth and top growth but I also have to repot less often . The deeper pots also hold more moisture and as a result I find the plants get to flowering size sooner .As I import about 1000 plants in flask this is very important to me

[rodrigo]

Originally Posted by Cym Ladye

Bullsie,
A VERY SIMPLE rule of thumb is to select a pot that will allow 2" of potting medium to exist between the edge of the division, which is centered in the middle of the pot, and the edge of the pot.
CL

2" clearance for the plant seems to me to be very restricted for new bulbs growth since new bulbs come out on the edges of plant.

What is the rationale for restricting the plant in such a pot?

Would this be for all size cymbidiums?

Wouldn't it be better to think "the bigger the better" as far as pots is concerned?

Thanks for your answers.

Rodrigo

[Cym Ladye]

Rodrigo,

There are two "old wives' tales" out there: 1) that a Cym. should be crowded in the pot to bloom well and 2) that you need scads of room for all the growth of the bulbs. Both are incorrect in my 50 years of Cym. growing and exhibiting.

The first stems from the fact that, simply stated, the more bulbs, the more blooms initially. However, when the plant has used up all room for new root growth and optimum bulb growth, the bloom spikes diminish. This usually occurs in about 4 years. Two inches around the perimeter allows for this. For the commercials using tall narrow pots, growth deterrents, mikaki and forcing blooms for rapid turnover, this does not apply.

The second refers to the root growth and the fact that Cym. roots need drainage. The roots take up the moisture in the medium and if there are too few roots to absorb the moisture, they will sit in a wet environment with resultant root rot. Using the tall pots, originated I believe by the off shore mericlone pot-plant market as an offshoot of the oriental, Asian, decorative clay pots used to grow the species, allows the trade to put more hybrid plants closer together in the growing areas. They do, however, allow for roots to be in a more vertical position with water staying in the bottom and thereby avoiding, as a beneficial side effect, over watering of the plants, a primary cause of Cym. demise. It may be fine for the smaller pots but when a hobbyist grows specimen plants in standard 1, 2 and 3 gallon pots, it no longer applies.

These are very simplified answers to your question and I am sure there are those who may disagree. But for my purposes as an avid hobbyist, I view the tall pots as strictly a commercial expedient to conserve space with compact growing both for their benefit and to the buyers who do not have the luxury to grow outside all year. As long as the off shore dealers are flooding the market with short stemmed, "hyacinth" type Cyms, the tall pots will be around. Just don't try putting a quality Standard with two, 3 foot spikes of 20+ flowers each in such a pot and expect it not to fall over! Just my

CL

[rodrigo]

Cym Ladye:

Thanks for your detailed explanation.

To synthesize, I gather from your words that:
Pot size is directly related to root growth.
That there is a balance to keep in this sense.
That is, provide enough space for the roots to grow for about 4 years in that pot (that provides for the 2" around the the plant you talk about), at which time the plant will be ready for re-potting and dividing again.

Larger than necessary pots would only provide the plant with additional moisture that it cannot use. This will create a humid environment that will only promote fungus and root decay. So excessive pot space is not a good idea.

Now, all that pops up additional questions:

1- How big should a plant be allowed to become? How many bulbs is an optimal plant? So we can allow the 2" space around it?
This also applies when you proceed to divide a plant, how big should the divided plants be?

2- You talk about optimal "horizontal" space (2" around plant) to be allowed by the pot, but how about vertical space? How deep should the pot be for that "optimal size plant"?
I realized there is also a side discussion above about the depth issue, but this is only related to the commercial growing of Cymbs as you point out.

Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge!

Regards,

Rodrigo

[Bobfharris]

To answer your questions Rodrigo:
1. How big? Cymbs will produce more spikes in larger plant sizes. I used to allow mine to go to 5 gallon pots but then they got so heavy I couldn't carry them (some varieties have bigger bulbs and get REALLY heavy). I generally stop now at 3 gallons, but there is no reason other than how you can handle them. Of course if the plant breaks the pot or the plant has lots of dormant back bulbs then it is time to repot
2. Depth. Doesn't matter all that much, but the taller aspect will mean it can topple over in the wind etc, so I tend to use pots that are wider than deep if over 1 gallon. Under a gallon you can use trays to hold the plants so depth doesn't matter there. The Three gallon pots are 10 inches across and 9 inches deep.
As was said the key to happy blooming is to keep them rather crowded, so just pot up slightly larger than the pot it is currently in. Happy Blooming

[bullsie]

If one can get roughly four years growth between dividing/repotting, would it be safe to assume that Cymbidiums are not real keen on root disturbance?

[Bobfharris]

First. I can NEVER get 4 years. Mine are 2-3 tops before they break the pot. If it takes 4 years then you need to feed and water more. They love food and water. Really. Second, disturbing them can stop flowering especially if repotting is done after June. The best time to repot is just after flowering, and before the end of June.