Growing Cymbidiums in the house

[TylerK]

Hi Liza,

Take any advice I give with a grain of salt, as I'm still struggling with my own cymbidiums.

I doubt it's your summer temperatures that are the problem. Cyms prefer temperatures between 20C and 30C during the summer, which seems to be about what you're getting. If you're providing them with enough light (I'm assuming from the thread title that you're growing indoors) and you can't get them to bloom it's probably because you're not providing enough of a temperature drop in the winter. In the winter, night time temperatures need to drop to between 5C and 10C in order to bloom in the spring.

Tyler

[RosieC]

Liza, I'm not an expert but I think it is the LOW temperature that matters to get them to bloom rather than the maxiumum in the summer.

I think in the winter they need to go colder than they would be in the house. I grow one in a cool greenhouse to try and give it that drop although I only bought it in flower in December so I've not had time to find out if I can flower them again.

[Liza Orton]

Tyler
Thank you so much for the quick reply. I'm sure that is exactly what I did wrong.
So I'm not giving up but will try and try again

Have a great evening
Liza

[Liza Orton]

Thank you Rosie I got the same tip from Tyler, so, here goes and I'll hope for the best

Liza

[Austin Powers]

Perhaps I can revive this discussion with a question regarding bringing in cymbidiums. I have mine outside, and it is now to the point where nightly frost is a concern. I need to bring it into the house full-time very soon as I am afraid I will forget to bring it into the garage one night and it will get a frost.

My question is are there any special considerations when bringing it inside, or do I just put it in a bright spot?? There will be much less of a nightly temp drop inside, obviously. No problems with this?? It appears that others in Ontario have said they just bring them in at the time of frost. Just wondering if it is just that simple. Probably is, just double checking as this is my first cym.

Thanks,
Stephen

[Brenda Aarts]

Stephen,

I have about 20 cymbids that I grow outside as well all spring and summer. As you are, I have been getting a little nervous about how cool the evenings have been getting. I had a very experience cymbidium grower over the other day who advised that he normally leaves his out till the end of October, however watch for frost. Ie...if its going to be a light frost then to cover them or bring them closer to the house, hard frost, bring inside. I covered mine with bedsheets last night....although we didn't get frost and try to keep them up off the ground as well ie; on a table or shelf or something.

He indicated that a spot in our shop near the window would be perfect to winter them (not that my husband will be pleased with this) provided the temperature is kept slightly above freezing...ie: 45 or 50 degrees. He also said if one doesn't have a cool spot such as this in the home by a bright window would be fine as well. They've already had some cooler temperatures which hopefully has made them happy. Something to keep in mind is depending on where your plant is growth wize you will probably want to cut back on the watering and fertilizing. He checked a few of mine and about 5 or 6 are spiking so I will probably continue to water and feed these ones, but will keep in the shop and cooler over the winter with the others and reduce the water/food to the "non-spikers". Hope this has helped not confused....everyone has different opinions, techniques....etc. I did learn alot from him though, mainly don't baby them as much as I do!! Good luck.

[stonedragonfarms]

Originally Posted by Brenda Aarts

Stephen,

I have about 20 cymbids that I grow outside as well all spring and summer. As you are, I have been getting a little nervous about how cool the evenings have been getting. I had a very experience cymbidium grower over the other day who advised that he normally leaves his out till the end of October, however watch for frost. Ie...if its going to be a light frost then to cover them or bring them closer to the house, hard frost, bring inside. I covered mine with bedsheets last night....although we didn't get frost and try to keep them up off the ground as well ie; on a table or shelf or something.

He indicated that a spot in our shop near the window would be perfect to winter them (not that my husband will be pleased with this) provided the temperature is kept slightly above freezing...ie: 45 or 50 degrees. He also said if one doesn't have a cool spot such as this in the home by a bright window would be fine as well. They've already had some cooler temperatures which hopefully has made them happy. Something to keep in mind is depending on where your plant is growth wize you will probably want to cut back on the watering and fertilizing. He checked a few of mine and about 5 or 6 are spiking so I will probably continue to water and feed these ones, but will keep in the shop and cooler over the winter with the others and reduce the water/food to the "non-spikers". Hope this has helped not confused....everyone has different opinions, techniques....etc. I did learn alot from him though, mainly don't baby them as much as I do!! Good luck.

Brenda, Stephen et al...
I've been reading back through this thread, and thought that I would chime in; while I no longer grow cymbids in the house (i'm in a gh now), there are quite a few members of our local society that do grow under lights in their homes.
In regards to temperature, it is probably true that if you are providing sufficient light and fertilizer, then the lack of cool night temps/temperature drop is probably the culprit. It's a matter of debate, but I believe that most growers will tell you that cymbidiums appreciate a drop in night temps year round; cool winter temperatures aid in preventing spike blast, premature bud drop, intensification of bloom color, etc. Most society members that I talk to seem to experience spike loss when their plants are moved from warm day/cool night locations to our more "controlled" indoor atmosphere; if you are willing to let your house/growing area cool down to 50-55F for the night hours, I think you will have better luck keeping spikes on your plants.
Also bear in mind that your plants which are not showing spikes may simply be spring blooming as opposed to winter bloomers; about 40 plants in my collection will not begin to show spikes until mid February, for blooms in April on through to June.
If you can not provide reliable temperature drop growing under lights, you might try looking for the warmer growing cymbidium species and crosses.
Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress.
Adam

[Austin Powers]

Thanks for the responses. As usual one question leads to another. The cymbidium I am have, that actually belongs to a local florist, I am babysitting, has several newish growths, they are a good size. None appear to be sending out a spike. To me, none of the 5 growths looks mature enough to spike yet. Do new growths usually grow to maturity and spike the same year? As Adam mentioned above, perhaps this cym. blooms in the spring. I am watering much less now that it is cool, and no fertilizer.
This is a good warm-up for the two cyms of my own that I am expecting from Santa Barabra OE this week.
Stephen

[Bobfharris]

Originally Posted by Austin Powers

Do new growths usually grow to maturity and spike the same year?

The answer to this is that it depends on the cymbidium hybrid. Certain ones bloom from this years bulb and certain ones from last years. Typically for example those with lots of ensifolium in the background bloom from this years growth. Not true for insigne based ones. Etc.
What are the ones you have ordered? That might help.

[orchids3]

Was thinking about my spring signal to put the plants out (vandas and cymbidiums)in Connecticut, it was the snakes.. When they came out to sun themselves in the spring - it was time to put the orchids out. When you see the snakes going to their over winter caves or hollows, take the orchids in. If you are in tune with nature this will make sense to you.