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  #11  
Old 02-28-2009, 05:05 PM
Cym Ladye Cym Ladye is offline
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Orchids 3,

I checked the RHS registry and there is no registration for a Via Loch Reposo under that spelling. That does not surprise me with G & S as many of the names they use on their crosses and eventually the meristems of selected varieties from those crosses are not registered.

This does not mean that you cannot register the cross with their permission if it is important to you.

CL
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  #12  
Old 03-01-2009, 08:41 PM
orchids3 orchids3 is offline
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CL
I like to "study" the genetics of plants I see. It is hard to find whats in the cross unless its registered. Some hybridizers are secretive - guess there are a lot of pirates around. It makes it hard to find out what I would like to know - which is what is wise to spend my money on for plants to grow in my conditions.
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  #13  
Old 03-02-2009, 12:52 PM
Cym Ladye Cym Ladye is offline
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Orchids 3,

I agree with you 100%. That is why I will not buy an unknown orchid for my collection. G&S does keep records, do not misunderstand me on this. It is just that oftentimes they do not feel it necessary to register the names they use on the crosses. In the past I have found them very agreeable to having someone else register the name they have used and giving them credit as the hybridizer.

It is sad today for the serious hobbyist that so many offshore nursery distributors of mericlones do not put names or parents on the plants shipped in. Their attitude is that these are merely a "disposable commodity" to be thrown out after blooming and their feeling that most purchasers of these plants could care less about a name on a plant.

Some offshore distributors do put a clonal name on a mericlone, much as seen in the rose trade with names like 'Peace' and 'Double Delight'. I see this as the direction the Cymbidium pot plant market will eventually go in the future.

CL
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  #14  
Old 03-02-2009, 01:03 PM
Cym Ladye Cym Ladye is offline
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Phearamedusa,

The bud but drop you are experiencing is not uncommon for a plant kept in house temperatures in the range you state. Most Cymbidiums are NOT house plants and should only be brought in when the blooms are fully open. I suspect in your case it is the change from where the plant was to where it is now that is causing your bud drop. If you do not get at least a 15 degree temperature drop at night, this will also contribute to the problem with a plant with standard breeding.

CL
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  #15  
Old 03-02-2009, 08:05 PM
phearamedusa phearamedusa is offline
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Cym Lady,

I kept it on the front porch until we had a pretty good frost, I then put it in the location it was sitting It hasn't moved in about 4 or 5 months. The spike started in this location. I can't leave it outside and have a live plant, unfortunately the temps just get too low, the temp here today is 18F without the lovely wind chill. I thought it might be staying too wet, or that the light was not strong enough. I'm just going to have to cross my fingers that I might get to see at least one bud open. I could try it in the basement, I guess, the temp doesn't get much above 65F right now.
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  #16  
Old 03-03-2009, 02:00 PM
Cym Ladye Cym Ladye is offline
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Phearamedusa,

I am by no means an expert in the study of warmth tolerance in cymbidiums, but I do know from experience that the species Cym hookerianum syn grandiflorum, is not tolerant of warm temperatures when in bud. This transfers to its progeny for many generatiions. I say this, because, if I figured my percentages out right, there is 8% Cym. hookerianum in the parentage of Via Loch Reposo coming from the parent Loch Lomond. This could well contribute to the intolerance of warm, dry air on your plant while in bud.

That said, other factors are also known to bring on bud drop in Cymbidiums: warm, dry air; drafts; change in humidity and or light; and too high temperatures at night. Bud drop, and its accompanying disappointment, is one reason Cymbidiums have failed to make it as house plants over the years. It is so discouraging to take a beautifully growing plant though 9 months of care and then, just when you look to reap the benefits of the rewarding blooms, cold weather comes, the plants have to leave their happy outdoor environment and live in a place that is not to their liking.

More and more is being done to eliminate this problem with the smaller Asian species creating hybrids more tolerant of the indoor growing environment and atmospheric changes. Usually Standard Cymbidiums, which have shown to have warmth tolerance, have been used with these species.

In regard to your last comment on the plant being too wet, this could clause the problem too. If you have lost the roots due to excess water, you may have just found the answer to your problem if the other factors have not played a part. Excess light short of burning should not be a problem.

Good Luck,

CL

Last edited by Cym Ladye; 03-03-2009 at 02:06 PM..
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  #17  
Old 03-03-2009, 05:31 PM
orchids3 orchids3 is offline
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Good air movement helps a lot too - not a fan blowing on the plant but air movements. In Florida I took cymbidiums into the greenhouse for temperatures below 40 F and they often blasted unless I sat them on the floor and added more air movement then it was questionable wheather or not I would get bud drop. The plant actually have held buds better with less bud drop - out in the enclosed shade house with a fine water mist. (similar to what Loren Batchman does) Have had temps as low as 27 with temperatures next to the plants at 33 with the mist. That confirms what Cym Lady described.Not fair to mention Loren without giving you the link. Ice Of course you can not do the same thing in Canada - you would be sure to loose most cymbidiums but dont be afraid to keep them cool or even cold (above freezing)
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  #18  
Old 03-03-2009, 06:34 PM
Cym Ladye Cym Ladye is offline
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I am often fascinated by the lengths hobbyists will go to in creating special conditions in their homes for orchid genera which would never survive otherwise. When I started amassing an orchid collection a lifetime ago, I made the decision to find out what grew well for me, under my existing conditions, without a lot of changes, and then grew a lot of whatever "it" turned out to be. Hence Cymbidiums in Northern California, where we are all totally spoiled with our weather. (well at least 99% of the time).

In attempting to answer problems with Cymbidiums, I constantly have to check from what part of the world the question comes, adjust the answer and hope for the best. That is the value of so many experienced growers from every conceivable continent taking part in the OB. What one person misses, another may catch.

I always appreciate your input Orchids3. I may learn to grow cyms in Florida yet!

CL
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  #19  
Old 03-03-2009, 08:59 PM
phearamedusa phearamedusa is offline
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Thank you both for the help, I think its going to drop every last one. If this does happen, well I'll know for next year what to do to get the flowers to maturity. I'm going to make it very unhappy, I think and repot it soon as it decides if I get to see a flower open or not.

I just ordered a warm tolerant one, curious if you have heard of it...Cym. ensifolium v. Tie Gu Su Xin.
White flowers, asian , and fragrant. I didn't make the 4 hour (1 way) drive to Clouds on the weekend... hubby pointed out the up coming show 2 hours (1 way) away and picking up there instead I ordered some nice plants I think, and pretty much all are fragrant.
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  #20  
Old 03-04-2009, 07:07 PM
Cym Ladye Cym Ladye is offline
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Phearamedusa,

I would look into the hybrids from the warm growing Asian cyms instead of the species themselves. They will be easier to grow and you will have more color choices.


CL
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