Need help getting cymbidium to grow new flower spikes! - Orchid Board

Chiefster · #1 10-19-2008, 03:35 PM

Dear cymbidium orchid lovers,

I have a good sized cymbidium orchid that I got last Valentine's Day for my wife and I would love for it to be in full bloom for this upcoming Valentine's Day! I have re-potted it once but did not divide the plant. There originally were 3 plant bulbs and 3 large flower spikes. Since re-potting and over the summer, 3 new leaf growths have emerged. Here are some pics of the orchid (and my damn cats): NOTE- click on thumbnails to go to larger pic views:

I live in the Smoky Mountains of western NC and the plant gets plenty of indirect sunlight and temps varying from 70's during the days to upper 40's and lower 50's during the nights.

I have been watering about twice a week lately but the plant medium is not staying real wet for very long. I have been adding orchid bloom booster every 4th watering which consists of 11-15-15 blend. I put a small amount of 20-20-20 in the water every once in awhile as well. I believe I am not getting the plant the nutrients it needs to grow flower spikes. Can somebody out there give me a formula for successful flower spike growth? I would appreciate it.
Chiefster

lambelkip · #2 10-19-2008, 05:41 PM

it's unlikely to bloom next season. the "new leaf growths" are pseudobulbs, and should be nearly as large as the old ones by now.
there's three things that have affected its growth. first of all, any orchid will take a while to adapt to a new environment, such as when it was moved from the grower to your house. second, when you repotted it, it should have been potted in something that retains moisture better, such as a cymbidium mix or even regular potting soil. during the spring and summer growing season, it needs frequent watering, the potting medium should stay evenly moist. the third thing is the fertilizer. it should be fertilized at full strength (according to the fertilizer manufacturer's directions) every week or two during the growing season.

you've already reached the ideal winter temperatures for the plant, which means the growing season is effectively over. the potting medium should be kept barely moist at this point. cooler temperature would probably harm the plant. check the AOS Culture Sheet for more information on how to care for the plant.

if you really want flowers for valentine's day, i recommend getting another orchid (one that's already flowering at the time).

Chiefster · #3 10-19-2008, 11:15 PM

Thanks very much for your candid response. I am obviously new to this world of orhids and appreciate any good advice I get from this forum. Can you give me a good example of the proper fertilizer to use for best results with a mostly indoor plant? Also, would daily exposure to a grow lamp help at all? Thanks again.

lambelkip · #4 10-20-2008, 12:28 AM

the fertilizer you already have (20-20-20) is probably ok, if used at full strength during the growing season. however, AOS recommends a high-nitrogen fertilizer (30-10-10), which may be even more important for you, since you're growing in bark.

towards the end of the growing season, you can switch to a bloom booster fertilizer.

again, the growing season is basically over, so at this time of year, you should keep the medium barely moist, and fertilize weakly.

it's generally not recommended to grow cymbidiums indoors. most people keep them outdoors for the growing season, then bring them indoors when temperatures dip to about 40 at night. they're usually brought inside for the winter, and kept inside until they're done blooming. while you have them inside, try to make sure there is good airflow in the room, and relatively high humidity.

a grow lamp can certainly help. they generally need bright light, around here we grow them outside in full sun.

betoguerrero · #5 10-23-2008, 07:55 PM

Hi
Very important your points of Cymbidium... I have a question??? How long is the time beetween the new leaf grows, become a pseudobulb and bloom??? I have one Cymbidium but it's a bit lazy...
The Photo of your masdevallia (yellow) is amazing is an hibrid???

betoguerrero · #6 10-23-2008, 07:58 PM

Your Cymbidium looks very healthy... good grow!!!
Nice cats!!!

lambelkip · #7 10-23-2008, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by betoguerrero

Hi
Very important your points of Cymbidium... I have a question??? How long is the time beetween the new leaf grows, become a pseudobulb and bloom??? I have one Cymbidium but it's a bit lazy...
The Photo of your masdevallia (yellow) is amazing is an hibrid???

the leafs grow on the pseudobulb, the pseudobulb is already there. the pseudobulb should be full size by the end of the growing season (the end of autumn). if conditions are right, the pseudobulb may bloom during the next blooming season. what is the weather like in your area?

the Masdevallia is a hybrid (Mary Staal x tovarensis)

stonedragonfarms · #8 10-24-2008, 12:23 AM

Hello...just thought that I would add my

I agree with the fertilizer and potting media advice--though I would fertilize at recommended strength with every watering during the growing season (I use MSU fertilizer blend, but I have used strictly Alaska-Grow Fish Emulsion in the past with great results), so long as you water once a month with straight fresh water to flush any accumulated mineral salts from the media...I also would suggest a more moisture retentive media--I generally use straight coconut husk chips, or a blend of tree fern, perlite and dolomite, aim to keep the root zone evenly moist. I would suggest that you up the light exposure as well, the foliage seems a little too green to me; aim for something more chartreuse colored. I would disagree however, with the advice that the growing season is in effect over--it would be nice to know the parentage of your plant, but some cymbidiums are just now beginning to fatten up their pseudobulbs for late spring bloom (Black Silk, Ann Miller, Cameliard & Jill all come to mind)--depending on the lineage it may not be too late to set spikes for late spring bloom (though I would not expect any for Valentine's Day; most of the plants that will bloom mid-February are already in low spike)
Remember that pot plants are often "managed" in their growth patterns to bloom at a particular time--want high quality pink cymbidiums at Valentine's...grow under air-conditioning and supplemental lighting--remove the plants from their controlled nursery growing environments and they will revert to their "natural" timing.
Hope this helps,
Adam

betoguerrero · #9 10-24-2008, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lambelkip

the leafs grow on the pseudobulb, the pseudobulb is already there. the pseudobulb should be full size by the end of the growing season (the end of autumn). if conditions are right, the pseudobulb may bloom during the next blooming season. what is the weather like in your area?

the Masdevallia is a hybrid (Mary Staal x tovarensis)

In resume the pseudobulb last one season to grow and 1 season to flower??? Two years....it's long....isn't it???
Anyway the flowers of Cymbidium are so beautifull for any wait... and last 2-3 months in bloom...!!!
Here in Quito the weather is variable.... with no coldest winters and no warmest summer... In the same day we have the 4 seasons...JAJAJAJJAA
The cymbidium here grow very good...
Nice Masdevallia.... I have some masdevallia species...

Weebl · #10 10-24-2008, 03:48 PM

Granted my growing season is much different than yours, but new growths which started in August for me are just now maturing with flower spikes emerging on my earlier blooming varieties. My Cymbidiums will go through two or three cycles of growth before the growing season is over and blooms start to emerge, do others have similar experiences?