Cymbidium Ensifolium- sticky stuff in roots

[MRWPsyD]

I have a cymbidium ensifolium "white snake" with some sticky amber colored stuff in the roots. I had another ensifolium that had this issue a year ago, which became black rot. Does anyone know why this is happening? I avoid the crown when watering, I water at night when the base of the clear pot is moisture free, very little fertilizer, and give it morning sun. It's potted a bit too high, so I have a little sphagnum on top to keep the pbulbs from drying until I have new roots from the younger growths. (The white dust on the leaves is just diatomaceous earth, which I'll be removing soon)

My first post so I apologize if I missed anything and thank you in advance!

[Roberta]

First, Welcome!

I wonder if there is a pest nibbling at roots. Not the ideal time for potting, but Cyms are pretty forgiving, it might be worth taking it out of the pot and getting a look at what might be going on down there.

[MRWPsyD]

Thank you, I'm glad to have found a group of knowledgeable people! Just popped it out to see what was going on. I do have incoming roots! Good to know, it's always hard for me to tell on cymbidium when they grow straight down. I THINK the issue was a root/tiny pseudobulb competing for space and beginning to rot after the pbulb broke. Also I was watering a little too much. Whatever the case, it's a little deeper

[Roberta]

Cyms do like to stay on the damp side - don't ever let it dry out. But also needs air around the roots so fresh medium was a good thing. Don't worry about crowding - Cyms tend to bloom better when they have "tight shoes". They do have long roots - that's why the Asian-type (section Jensoa) Cyms are often potted in pots that are much taller than they are wide. Like this Amazon.com or this Plastic Asian Cymbidium Pot (Shunran, Kanran) - OrchidWeb
If there is a bonsai store near you, they usually carry these... or there's always online. I like these for Cyms generally, especially for smaller plants.

If a growth broke, then yes it would tend to rot - but likely not hurt anything else. Getting it out of the pot was a good thing, though.

[Waterdog111]

That almost looks like a mycorrhizal bacteria. I use it a lot of the time on my trees, but it does funny things sometime. I dont understand a lot about it but from what Ive read, its supposed to work together with the plant it joins and help deliver nutrients and water to help the plant.
I was also reading in one place, that some orchids needed a certain kind to help them germanate.

[Roberta]

Orchid mycorrhizae are too small to see. The formulas that are sold for other plants, not particularly useful for orchids. There are probiotic formulations that can help (Ray talks about one he favors in verious posts) but that's not what is happening here.

[Waterdog111]

Thanks Roberta!
I did want to welcome the new member also.

[MRWPsyD]

Thanks, I'm glad to be here! Also appreciate the reminder about good root fungus/bacteria. I have to resist the urge to physan every problem in my path haha

---------- Post added at 01:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:45 PM ----------

Originally Posted by Roberta

Orchid mycorrhizae are too small to see. The formulas that are sold for other plants, not particularly useful for orchids. There are probiotic formulations that can help (Ray talks about one he favors in verious posts) but that's not what is happening here.

This led me down a rabbit hole. There was actually an article in English specifically about mycorrhizal fungus on an Asian hybrid, "golden boy". I'll include the link and the title because I was only able to access it through my school. Not exactly a groundbreaking conclusion, but interesting-

"both mycorrhizal and endophytic fungi had the potential to create favourable microflora in the orchid roots and stimulate the growth of transplanted plantlets under greenhouse conditions."

Effects of inoculated mycorrhizal fungi and non- mycorrhizal beneficial micro-organisms on plant traits, nutrient uptake and root-associated fungal community composition of the Cymbidium hybridum in greenhouse


Just a moment...

[estación seca]

Diseases rarely attack plants unless plants are stressed for some reason, or the environmental conditions favor diseases. In the case of orchids in cultivation, fungal or bacterial attack is rare unless the temperatures are too high or too low, or the relative humidity is too high.

Many greenhouses in winter wind up being far too humid and cool at the same time, due to being kept tightly closed and cool to save heating costs. In summer many greenhouses are too hot, due to inability to cool without air conditioning, and as a result generally too humid as well. Both of these situations favor disease attacks.

When growing in a home, conditions are rarely humid enough to predispose to disease, but incorrect temperatures may cause it. Terrarium easily become too humid without proper ventilation, and they can be too warm or cool for the plants chosen. Not every orchid can be grown successfully in any particular home, usually due to temperature issues at some time in the year.

Your first though on seeing something that might be a disease should be on how to correct the growing conditions, not to reach for a chemical poison.

Using fungicides will kill beneficial fungi that normally keep pathogenic fungi and bacteria under control. This will also lead to pathogenic organisms becoming resistant to the chemical used. Prophylactic use of fungicides or disinfectants is usually harmful, not helpful, for these reasons.

[ndam]

Hi, I am a novice grower of Asian cymbidiums in Southern California. I have had many issues with root rots like you and I am still searching a solution to minimize this issue. As I understand, Ensifolium or other types of orchids like Kanran, Sinense, or Goeringii cymbidiums, they are very sensitive to potting mix and water cycle. They like moist around their roots, but not wet for so long. I see you watered your cymbidium
at night during Summer which is good. In the Winter, you have to cut down watering and only water in early morning. Potting mix should NOT be majority of bark, since bark retains water too long and when it is decomposed, it causes the pH level higher. I talked to an advanced grower of Goeringii before, he told me the inorganic substances should be best for Asian cymbidiums. It should contain pumice, Japanese Akadama, Kanuma, and Satsuma soil. The mixture of these are not listed anywhere. It is unknown.