What makes a cymbidium "early" vs "late"?

[MN Tomato]

So I have this cranky old cymbidium, and I don't want to jinx it so I am only going to say um, there could be something actually happening with it this year. But it only started showing spikes in late December. I'm in Minnesota, and we keep it outside until "hard freeze" (predicted below about 27° F) and then bring it in. That was November this year, which is late, although it got brought into the garage once or twice before that. So that might have something do with it.

This year we also shut off the heat to a spare bedroom and so the temperature in there stays 50-55 which has also helped probably. So it's had below 55 nights since about mid October at least.

I went to the orchid show put on by the Minnesota Orchid society this weekend at Como Zoo and Conservatory, and had some lovely talks with the orchid society members there. There were a few cymbidiums in bloom on display, and the people that had cymbidiums all said they did the very same thing to theirs that I described in my first paragraph. And some had blooms now and some are still just starting spikes despite the same treatment.

But they all said they weren't "cymbidium people" and so couldn't answer why some are earlier and some are later, so I thought I would put it to you all. Is it something in its ancestry? Do some really need a much longer chill than others, or how does it work? If I would like to buy some varieties with earlier blooming times, what would I look for? I have never seen that in descriptions.

I read the very interesting and helpful Floribunda articles about how Dutch growers time their cymbidiums to bloom year round, and it describes them as "early" and "late". But I was not sure whether this refers to the "natural" behavior of a variety or actually the season they are prepping them for -- forcing I guess you would call it with narcissus bulbs.