Cymbidium cleanup

[Afid]

I recently got a large Cymbidium (NoID unfortunately) as a gift, and I'm thinking it could use a little bit of grooming. It is currently potted in a 10" plastic pot (in what I think may have once been a bark-based media). As far as I know it has not been repotted since it was in this pot (at least 3-4 years ago, probably longer). I also recently noticed a few scale insects on it so I will need to get rid of those too, which means possibly removing as many of the old leaf remnants as possible so they can't hide. Currently I am thinking I will pull it out of the pot, remove all the dead leaves, and maybe divide it or at least take off some of the old bulbs. I would probably put it in orchiata bark. I have very little knowledge about Cymbidiums and would love any advice people have as far as what to do with it, thanks!

[WaterWitchin]

Get out the chainsaw! Go ahead and treat for scale. I would spray the heck out of it with rubbing alcohol, and use a systemic on it. I wouldn't repot until early spring, after it's finished blooming. You live in a good place to get that chill it likely needs.

If you have excess back bulbs, they're pretty easy to start a new plant with. I have a thread somewhere around here about dividing mine first time, and I'll see if I can find it.

---------- Post added at 03:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:02 PM ----------

Here's the backbulb one...

Cym NOID backbulb repotting

---------- Post added at 03:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:04 PM ----------

Here's the one on repotting it...
Cymbidium LECA repotting question

[Roberta]

I'd definitely be going for the systemic... Imidacloprid in granule form (Merit is a brand name for that) or Safari granules. (The former is a lot cheaper...) Sprinkle on top of pot. It will dissolve slowly and also work its way down into the medium, get taken up by the roots which will especially help the new growth. I agree with WW, wait until spring for potting/dividing (whether it blooms or not). Any old leaf sheaths that you can remove without unpotting, go for it. I have found that they are a lot easier to remove if you tear them down the middle then peel the two halves. Or grab with long-nosed pliers Careful of the fingers, those stubs left behind by dropped leaves can be on the sharp side.

[Afid]

Great, thanks for the help! unfortunately I already discovered the sharp leaf remnants, I have gotten less careful now that I don't have a Sudamerlycaste in my collection anymore

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by Afid

Great, thanks for the help! unfortunately I already discovered the sharp leaf remnants, I have gotten less careful now that I don't have a Sudamerlycaste in my collection anymore

Watch out for the Catasetinae after they shed leaves and you want to tidy things up... like razors.

[Afid]

Originally Posted by Roberta

Watch out for the Catasetinae after they shed leaves and you want to tidy things up... like razors.

Good to know!

[Fairorchids]

You can grow Cymbidium in any mix, but your choice dictates the watering schedule you need to follow.

Cymbidums do not like to go dry, so I generally advise against bark mixes - unless you are a chronic over-waterer. I use a terrestrial mix, and water the plants heavily all summer (3 hours with a sprinkler, 3 times a week).

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by Fairorchids

You can grow Cymbidium in any mix, but your choice dictates the watering schedule you need to follow.

Cymbidums do not like to go dry, so I generally advise against bark mixes - unless you are a chronic over-waterer. I use a terrestrial mix, and water the plants heavily all summer (3 hours with a sprinkler, 3 times a week).

I do use small bark (the cheap seedling bark) with a bit of perlite. Yes, it's all about the watering... I have the Cyms on benches under the L. anceps (since both need the light in the brightest part of my yard). The L. anceps are all mounted or in baskets with little medium, they get watered the same by an automatic sprinkler (like daily in summer, every 2 or 3 days in winter) - the Cyms stay damp, the L.anceps are dry in a couple of hours, everybody is happy.