Needed help...2 articles & a crossword puzzle in here!

[cb977]

I think that's a great idea

I'll get them posted as soon as I can, may take a day or two

It's very interesting to compare the two. They are both written very nicely but in two different formats. I'm very happy that I asked for help on this little project of mine, I couldn't have written one article that would have encompassed all that's covered in the two I received

Thanks again to both of you

[Call_Me_Bob]

no problem! i would love to see how they differ from each other. and i cant wait to reads yours jropad!

i just realized that i didnt include any pictures. if you want any pictures, i can give them to you

[cb977]

You can send a pic if you'd like

[Call_Me_Bob]

okay, ill send it. but i dont have any pics of it in flower, just the plant. idk if you still want that.

[cb977]

Oh no...if it were pics of the bloom I'd use it.
That's okay...the article is enough

[Call_Me_Bob]

cool

[cb977]

You guys did great...thank you so very much

They are both being published in this months' newsletter for the Tampa Orchid Club...and I will use information provided to create a crossword puzzle too!

from jrodpad:

There seems to be a general consensus among modern orchid literature that the Phalaenopsis (“Phal”) is the
ideal orchid for windowsill growers. Today’s commercial hybrids are deserving of this reputation, as they are
hardy, able to grow within a wide range of environmental conditions and produce showy flower displays that
can be enjoyed in the home for months. In the paragraphs below, I detail the conditions that keep my
ever-expanding collection of Phals blooming year after year.

Light: The Phalaenopsis is a low-light orchid and will grow well in indirect sunlight from 1,000 to 2,000 foot-candles. I keep my Phals at the top of that range during the summer. I can always tell when I have hit the “sweet spot” of a Phal’s light tolerance when the edges of the underside of the leaves just begin to blush. During the summer, I give my Phals about 16 hours of light per day, extending the hours of natural daylight with T-5 fluorescents. As autumn begins to set in, I gradually ease the light down to around 1,500 foot-candles and begin incrementally dialing down the hours of light until the winter-low of only 10 hours per day. I find that lowering the intensity and duration of light in the fall and winter helps the Phals initiate flower spikes.

Water / Fertilizer: I water my Phals with a mixture of one part tap water and one part rainwater. In the summer, I allow the tap water to sit in an open container for a few hours before mixing it with rainwater to allow some of the chlorine to evaporate and to allow the temperature to normalize. In the autumn and winter I mix the rainwater with cold water straight from the tap, in an effort to help coax the Phals into spiking. I always allow the roots to slightly
dry out before watering, which, depending on the temperature and humidity, winds up being about one watering per week. On particularly hot or dry days, I will mist the aerial roots. During the summer, I add a half strength dose of 20-20-20 fertilizer to the water every other time I water my Phals. I have 3 different brands of fertilizer, each with different micronutrients, and I rotate their use in an attempt to provide balanced nutrition. In the fall and winter I only add fertilizer once a month.

Temperature / Humidity: In the summer, I try to keep my Phals between seventy-five and eighty-five degrees Fahrenheit during the day and a bit cooler at night. I program the thermostat to turn on the air conditioner if temperatures get into the nineties. In the first few weeks of autumn, the daytime temperatures are in the low to mid-seventies and I let the nighttime temperatures drop to between fifty-five and sixty degrees Fahrenheit to help initiate spiking. Sometimes I put the entire collection outside to help achieve these nighttime lows. I rely on humidity trays and occasionally run a humidifier to keep the relative humidity between 50% and 70%, despite a year-round battle with arid winter air, forced hot air heating and air conditioning.

Air Movement: I think this may be the cultural factor that is most under-appreciated by hobbyists. I keep a small and quiet fan moving the air around my phalaenopsis collection during the daylight hours. Air circulation helps the potting media dry out evenly, helps to prevent root rot and fungal infections and aids in respiration.

Potting Media / Pots: I try to keep all my Phals in clear plastic pots, which allows the roots to photosynthesize and lets me easily see the condition of the roots and potting media. My Phals grow in a medium grade mixture of bark chips, hardwood charcoal and perlite, which drains well and dries fairly quickly.

There are a few species Phals in my collection that are a bit particular and require variations of the conditions described above, but generally speaking, these conditions keep the Phals in my collection healthy, happy and blooming.


Published with permission of the author: jrodpad at Orchid Board

from help:

Phalaenopsis are what started my orchid obsession. *I bought a “just add ice” Phal for my mom on Mother’s Day from Wal-Mart. I had no idea what I was getting into. I ended up taking care of it. After giving it crown and root rot, I decided to learn more about these wonderful plants. It turns out that I had done just about everything I could have done wrong. For starters, I watered it with ice cubes and much too frequently. *I also deliberately poured water into the crown! *Oh yeah, I also placed it in direct sun, giving it severe sunburn. I had good intentions, really— I was just uneducated! *

After doing my research, I realized what I had done wrong. I eventually decided upon water culture to attempt to bring it back from the brink. It had one root left, and a sickly looking one at that. It only took about two weeks in water culture for new roots to come. Shortly after new roots, came new leaves to replace those that were sunburned.* I have since then given in to my orchid obsession, and have obtained many*more orchids of differing genera. I have also learned that different orchids require different care. My favorite Phalaenopsis is a Phal I-Hsin Sunflower. Like my first orchid, the Phal I-Hsin Sunflower is a complex hybrid. A complex hybrid is any Phal with at least one parent that is not a species. The parentage of Phal I-Hsin Sunflower is Phal Taipei Gold x Phal Brother Nugget.

Complex hybrids respond best to day temperatures of 70* F or above and night temperatures of 60-65* F. when temperature rise above 85* F, the humidity and air movement should be increased. To help initiate spikes, Phals should be exposed to night temperatures of 55-60* F for a few weeks. * Humidity should be kept around
55%-70%. Short periods of lower humidity are not fatal, but long periods of reduced humidity should be avoided.
Phalaenopsis as well as many other orchids are epiphytes. *Epiphytes are plants that live attached to trees. Phalaenopsis have thick succulent roots that allow them to *cling onto the trees. They also have the ability to do
photosynthesis. Phalaenopsis grow very differently in nature than how they are most commonly seen in pots,
crown up. In nature, they grow clinging to trees with their crown down. Since no water can get into the crown this way, there is little chance of crown rot. *

** *Since Phals are epiphytes, their roots are subject to dry out between the those frequent rains of the tropics. There are many different mixes used for phals. It depends greatly on your growing environment. *I grow most of
my Phals in a mixture of medium grade bark and medium grade charcoal. *The bark holds water but doesn’t stay soggy. *The charcoal provides good drainage the mix and has certain antiseptic properties.* ** *Phalaenopsis should be watered just before the mix goes completely dry. If not allowed to dry out almost completely between watering, it will develop root rot. Phalaenopsis benefit from weak fertilizer at every watering. Its best to use only half of what the bottle says. Its always better to over-dilute than under-dilute, as too much fertilizer will burn the roots. Its also a good idea to run plain water through the pot before fertilizing.*

** * Phalaenopsis are well suited for windowsill growing. An east window is desirable, but a north window will also work. Early morning sun is beneficial for good growth, but midday sun and hot afternoon sun can burn and scorch the leaves. To protect them, shear curtains can be used to filter the noonday light and prevent heat from building up on the leaves and damaging them. By touching the leaves at the peak light and heat hours of the day, you can tell if the leaves are in danger of burning. If the leaves are cool to the touch, they are fine. If however, they are warm to the touch, they are in danger of burning.*

** * By using the methods described here, you should be able to grow Phalaenopsis successfully too!
I hit a few bumps when I began, but with this article, hopefully you won’t have to.*


Published with permission of the author: help at Orchid Board

:

[flhiker]

Excellent articles. Well written and informative not to mention giving the reader encouragement to grow Phals. Congratulations to both of you.

Sue could you also post the Crossword puzzle too?

[cb977]

I'll figure out a way to do that too, Dave

The guys did great, right? YAY!

[nenella]

Well done help & jrodpad!!
I couldn't have written anywhere as eloquently as you guys! (which is why I didn't offer )
Congrats!