Cattleya from Gold Country

[charlesf6]

Received this plant in fine condition earlier this year.


Was somewhat worried about the powdery white film on the leaves so when I questioned the vendor Alan he told me it was the result of very hard water and that it would not harm the plant. It was a build up of calcium and my cattleya will flower better because of the extra calcium.



Starting to fret over the shaded spots on the underneath of the leaves that have now been appearing though ?

[estación seca]

If that's your wood label, you need penmanship lessons! What is the plant?

I think it's a Catt that's been grown hard. The root system is not extensive, and it's the wrong time of year to grow roots. Give it as much light and warmth as you can this time of year, and water well as soon as it's almost dry.

[charlesf6]

Originally Posted by estación seca

If that's your wood label, you need penmanship lessons! What is the plant?

I think it's a Catt that's been grown hard. The root system is not extensive, and it's the wrong time of year to grow roots. Give it as much light and warmth as you can this time of year, and water well as soon as it's almost dry.

that's just me entering & crossing off watering dates on that one stick.

Royal Walk Snowdrift / Gold Country Orchids

been trying not to over water but it appears that this one is very thirsty. I was trying to withhold soaking to 7-9 days but it seems to want much more.

I just cannot seem to get my watering pattern down to a good science with these plants (orchids).

I was told to not drown these guys, that they like to dry out but it appears that I am doing more harm than good
with my starving them. The only orchid that really thrived for me last year and grew super roots and ended up with a spectacular Christmas bloom was "Henry" my oversized Vanda which I saturated every other day.

[estación seca]

Cattleyas are different than Vandas. I think you watered Henry properly, but I suspect it got too cold.

Older Cattleya roots aren't as efficient as newer ones. Water this as soon as it's dry. When it starts making new growth and roots, don't let it dry completely.

[charlesf6]

Originally Posted by estación seca

Cattleyas are different than Vandas. I think you watered Henry properly, but I suspect it got too cold.

Older Cattleya roots aren't as efficient as newer ones. Water this as soon as it's dry. When it starts making new growth and roots, don't let it dry completely.

Blotches on under leaves not to worry??

[estación seca]

I wouldn't worry yet.

[Leafmite]

I bought this one, too, and it is quite vigorous so you should be alright.

I never could get the watering right with orchids, either. I would pot them up rootless in the spring and, by next spring, be rootless again. One day at the local gardening store, I saw the lava rock, realized that orchids don't really need 'soil', and I have been using it ever since (except for the Nelly Isler, Bulbophyllum and Pleurothallidinae which get moss).

This has walkeriana in it so it will like to dry out very quickly in cooler weather and have more water in the summer (but still have plenty of air to the roots).

When transplanting the Cattleya, I waited until I saw new growth then soaked it well in distilled water for an hour, gently removed the medium, then held it in the new basket pot and carefully put the dry rock around the roots. I kept it dry for a few days to let the roots heal and haven't moved it until just today when I adjusted it in the pot as the new growth was at the edge. I noticed that some of the roots had sent out new green growth...which I might have harmed with the adjustment (I will let it dry for a few days, now). New pseudobulbs will be putting out new roots soon so I am not too worried.

It is best to keep them still until the roots have a chance to keep the orchid from wriggling. Sometimes, wiring or staking the orchid in the pot is necessary.

Good luck!

---------- Post added at 11:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:43 PM ----------

Originally Posted by estación seca

I wouldn't worry yet.

Mine seemed to have them when I first received the orchids but I don't see them now (I just looked). Not sure what they were.

[AnonYMouse]

Those splotches look like they are on the old growths. Do the new growth have them also? If not, no worries.

Do remove the dried sheaths on the pbulbs, I can't see their condition. Old ones look dehydrated, did they arrive like that? How plump are the newer pbulbs?

When I grew catts -before S/Hing them (and giving them away)- I watered more frequently than 7-9 days. Although I have a warmer winter, I probably have less RH.

What temps does it get? Do you have a heat mat? How much light? Hard to tell from the pics but newer leaves look a lot darker than the old leaves.

[charlesf6]

Originally Posted by AnonYMouse

Those splotches look like they are on the old growths. Do the new growth have them also? If not, no worries.

Do remove the dried sheaths on the pbulbs, I can't see their condition. Old ones look dehydrated, did they arrive like that? How plump are the newer pbulbs?

When I grew catts -before S/Hing them (and giving them away)- I watered more frequently than 7-9 days. Although I have a warmer winter, I probably have less RH.

What temps does it get? Do you have a heat mat? How much light? Hard to tell from the pics but newer leaves look a lot darker than the old leaves.

2 of the 4 newer leaves have a trace of them.
Remove the dried sheaths?
They arrived wrinkled but plump.
64-68 degrees. No heat mat. Indirect light mostly, sunny window when I can.
Newest looking leaf being darkest the rest is a draw; some colored light, some darker.

[estación seca]

64-68 is tolerable, but very cool for most Cattleya hybrids. A winter of that is something they would endure, not enjoy. It would be a great temperature range for Sophronitis. Your plant likely won't start growing until it's warmer.

Regarding the spots - Powdery mildew fungus likes cool and dry conditions. It appears as greyish spots on the undersurfaces of leaves. I hadn't thought of that before because most orchid growing areas aren't cool and arid. I haven't seen it on orchids, but the treatment for roses and other plants is to hose off the undersides of leaves every few days. The fungus doesn't like being wet. Consider taking the plant to the shower every day or so and running warm water over the leaves.

The light isn't great, either. Cattleya leaves in strong light are yellowish-green. Dark green leaves indicate lower light. Some will bloom with dark green leaves, but others won't.

You need to water the plant so it doesn't shrivel, but not let it stay wet too long in those cool conditions. The fact the pseudobulbs are shrinking means it isn't getting enough water. The medium it's potted in probably dries rapidly, so you can increase the frequency of your watering. Consider using water that is slightly warm to the touch, like a baby's bottle. When you do water, hose off the leaves with warm water, too, in case the spots are powdery mildew.

A lot of people remove all the dried sheathing material so there are fewer places for insects to hide. Others leave the sheaths on the plant. With low-light conditions I would prefer to remove the sheaths so as much photosynthetic tissue as possible is exposed. Here with my high-intensity sun, I leave the sheaths on to protect the pseudobulbs from sunburn.

A healthy Cattleya going into your conditions in the fall will make it through the winter, but a less than healthy plant will struggle. And a plant grown in a greenhouse near Sacramento will be quite surprised when it arrives in upstate New York in midwinter.