Reed stem Epidendrum care and inducing spikes

[Orchid Whisperer]

Two years ago a friend gave me a NOID reed stem, in bloom. It probably has either E. radicans or E. ibaguense (or both) in the genetics, based on flowers.

I'm new to growing reed stems. I need to verify a few things regarding care. Care I have been giving is based on what I've read elsewhere.

I have been growing it quite bright, more light than my Cattleyas, similar to my Brassavolas. The leaves are bright green, tinged with red to purple, very firm and well-hydrated. Newest (unbloomed) leafy stems are 1 to 2 feet (30 - 60 cm) long. It is potted in medium similar to the way it was given to me, a mix of bark and sphagnum in a small terracotta pot. Roots look good.

Water / fertilizer has been similar to my Cattleyas, with additional spraying of the aerial roots. I have not given it a dry period to date.

QUESTION Re: flowering. It has not flowered for me yet. I've recently read that I should withhold water for a month to induce spike and bud formation. Is this advice correct, and if so, should the plant be kept in strong light while withholding water, or shaded? Should I do this now (temperatures mostly with highs of 90 to 95 F, = 32 to 35 C in August, roughly 70 F or 21 C at night)? Or should I wait for cooler weather?

Or, should I be doing something completely different to get spikes to form?

Thanks for any suggestions toward getting this plant to bloom.

[Fairorchids]

I had not heard about dry spell to induce blooming. I grow them in clay pots w spahnum/bark mix.

I have abt 30 reed stems, both species and hybrids. Mature plants go outside in full sun (in NJ) in late May, and stay out till mid/lare Oct. We water twice a week, both in greenhouse and outside.

All the mature plants bloom without any further inducement.

[Orchid Whisperer]

Thanks Kim

If I am right re: this being E. radicans or ibaguense or a related NOID, when would you expect plants to spike?

Regarding outdoor dates for my plants, Mine went outdoors sometime in March, gradually acclimated to strong sun most of the day. I plan to keep them outdoors until frost threatens, probably late October.

Since the plant has previously flowered, should I consider this a mature plant that should bloom each year?

I understand that you personally don't withhold water to get spikes but am curious what others think of this idea. Maybe not required, but possibly helpful? I don't intend to water-stress a plant if this will not help blooming.

[Fairorchids]

Yes, your plant should be considered blooming size.

I propagate by separating keikis, and find that they often bloom on stems only abt 1/3 the height of a mature plant. Their next growth will be about twice as tall, and by the third they should be fully grown.

[estación seca]

They should bloom from the tip of every new growth. In places they can be grown outdoors in flower beds or large containers, a large enough plant is always in bloom, even through the winter in southern California.

Your light sounds excellent.

Are the new growths since it came to you complete? What happened at the tips of these growths?

The more growths you get, the more flowers. Many people in southern California who have no other orchids fertilize these very heavily for more flowers.

If you are very sparing with water, that might prevent blooming, as well. They don't like to be really dry for very long.

[Orchid Whisperer]

During the summer they are watered nearly every day. My fertilizer schedule is about twice a month, 1/4 strength ( can't recall NPK ratio, but it is a a lower N blend). Fertilizer seems plenty for my Cattleyas and Oncidiums, etc.

Can you clarify what you mean by a "complete" growth? My growths seem to continue adding new leaves at the end with no apparent end in sight.

[estación seca]

Inflorescences form terminally when the growth is mature/complete. Some plants are over 3 feet / a meter tall before flowering. Breeders are trying to bring down the size.

After flowering that stem doesn't grow any taller, but it sprouts from the base, and it may also produce new plantlets at leaf axils.

Are the growing stems on yours as tall as the ones that already flowered? Reed-stem epis grow tall, and break multiple new leads, much faster than many orchids. Most growths should break, grow, mature and bloom in one long season. If your plant is very happy, it might be growing taller and leafier so it can make a bigger inflorescence.

[Orchid Whisperer]

E.s., there is a growth over a foot in length (closer to 1.5 feet) and another over 2 feet, neither shows apical elongation yet. The shorter growth is at least as long as the old previously bloomed growth.

Based on plant morphology (placement of roots and bloom spike habit) I think this plant is mostly, if not all, E. radicans. Two years ago it bloomed in late summer, but I've read that reed stems often bloom in cool weather. Should I look for changes in the fall? Anything else you would add to the culture to promote flowering?

My most-reluctant-to-bloom plants always seem to be the ones that are SUPPOSED to be easy!!

[estación seca]

I think it's just not big enough, or it hasn't decided to stop growing tall yet. I bet you get flowers this fall. I think hybrids bloom whenever they decide that stem is mature.

[NewLeaf]

I hope no one minds me joining a question to this thread. I have a E. radicans that I have had for 2 years. It grows one growth that replaces the last, then flowers, cycle continues.

I had heard these were weeds in Florida and grow in soil so I assumed the plant would get larger with time but no luck.

I'm curious if using regular potting soil might make them more likely to produce more than one new growth at a time. Currently mine is in spagnum, I moved it to that from bark thinking with more moisture I may get an increase in new growths.

Any help is appreciated