Cattleyas light cycles and blooming

[lusenok]

Originally Posted by gngrhill

Is there usually a difference in blooming ease between uni-foliate Catts and bi-foliate Catts ?

Yes, there is a difference. In my experience bifolate cattleyas require warmer growing conditions, higher humidity and quite possibly higher light levels than one can provide indoors in the northern climates. Bifolates are generally more finicky and less forgiving. Those who cultivate orchids in tropical greenhouse environment may not notice but for us people up north it makes a huge difference. In fact, I never successfully rebloomed bifolate cattleya in my upstate New York home.

[gngrhill]

I actually have one, my Scheherezade 'jewl box' that has both bi-foliate and uni-foliate PBs in the pot. Is that possible ? or are there Maybe 2 plants in the pot. It was a bag baby in 2012, and has been repotted maybe once. It has put up sheaths a few times, but they always dry up and don't produce anything.

[silken]

Originally Posted by gngrhill

I actually have one, my Scheherezade 'jewl box' that has both bi-foliate and uni-foliate PBs in the pot. Is that possible ? or are there Maybe 2 plants in the pot. It was a bag baby in 2012, and has been repotted maybe once. It has put up sheaths a few times, but they always dry up and don't produce anything.

Lots of my hybrids produce both 1 leaf and 2 leaf growths. They likely have both uni-foliate and bi-foliate parentage and can't decide what they want to do. If it is large enough to bloom, it is likely not enough light.

[rbarata]

Originally Posted by lusenok

Yes, there is a difference. In my experience bifolate cattleyas require warmer growing conditions, higher humidity and quite possibly higher light levels than one can provide indoors in the northern climates. Bifolates are generally more finicky and less forgiving. Those who cultivate orchids in tropical greenhouse environment may not notice but for us people up north it makes a huge difference. In fact, I never successfully rebloomed bifolate cattleya in my upstate New York home.

I live in the same latitude of NY but I have the climate of South California. Do you think this is enough for blooming?

[Subrosa]

Originally Posted by lusenok

Yes, there is a difference. In my experience bifolate cattleyas require warmer growing conditions, higher humidity and quite possibly higher light levels than one can provide indoors in the northern climates. Bifolates are generally more finicky and less forgiving. Those who cultivate orchids in tropical greenhouse environment may not notice but for us people up north it makes a huge difference. In fact, I never successfully rebloomed bifolate cattleya in my upstate New York home.

There is no plant, orchid or other that can't be grown through its complete life cycle under lights indoors if you're willing and able to buy and run the proper lights.........

[silken]

I live north of NY and in a very cold climate (in winter). I and a number of other orchid society friends grow and bloom a variety of Cattleyas both under lights in winter and either under lights in summer or in people's back yards or windows in summer. So I agree, you just need proper lights. The days are just too short to rely on daylight alone in winter.

[estación seca]

Originally Posted by rbarata

I live in the same latitude of NY but I have the climate of South California. Do you think this is enough for blooming?

Yes. If the English could bloom them in the 1800s you can bloom them.

[gngrhill]

Originally Posted by silken

Lots of my hybrids produce both 1 leaf and 2 leaf growths. They likely have both uni-foliate and bi-foliate parentage and can't decide what they want to do. If it is large enough to bloom, it is likely not enough light.

It must be old enough to bloom as it does put up sheaths even tho they turn brown and dry up. I do have spots on the leaves which someone here suggested might be from too much light, and if the lack of bloom might mean too little light, what do I try next ?
It is under the t-5's (4foot, 4bulb, HO) from 6:30 am until 1PM, and after that it gets some natural light thru the windows until sundown. IDK, too much or too little or nothing to do with light at all ??

[silken]

Originally Posted by gngrhill

It must be old enough to bloom as it does put up sheaths even tho they turn brown and dry up. I do have spots on the leaves which someone here suggested might be from too much light, and if the lack of bloom might mean too little light, what do I try next ?
It is under the t-5's (4foot, 4bulb, HO) from 6:30 am until 1PM, and after that it gets some natural light thru the windows until sundown. IDK, too much or too little or nothing to do with light at all ??

I would try 12 hours under lights. That way you have control of the light. I use T5 lights also but only 2 per run. So long as it isn't too close and burning it should be good. How are you feeding it? I suggest a balanced fertilizer weakly weekly with a clear flush of water every month.
Let it dry between watering. When new growths start, you could try a fertilizer that reduces the nitrogen. A temperature difference between night and day is also good for most of them. 10 to 15 degrees cooler if you can, without letting it be too cold in winter.

[rbarata]

Yes. If the English could bloom them in the 1800s you can bloom them.

That's a good point of view.
I'm sure, back in the 19th century, they didn't have growing lights.

Today I went to garden center specialized in orchids and they told me to repot it when new roots start to grow. Here he said it usually happens in March. So two more months of waiting and watering every 10 days (plain water).