Are there any Catts that rest in winter?

[rbarata]

I have one, bifoliate, autumn bloomer, that seems to be stalled.
I've read somewhere that these autumn bloomer start its growing stage (roots, at first) in spring. Until then, they stop growing.

Is this true?

[estación seca]

The species come from a very wide geographic range and very differing climates. Most hybrids can be watered whenever they are in active growth, but not all species can be treated this way. A few species have very definite rest periods that must be respected.

I have learned a lot about Cattleya species from the Chadwick & Sons Web site. I have not found all species there, but most of them are:

Chadwick & Son Orchids

You can either put the species name into the Search box or click on Advice. On the Advice page is a retrograde listing of past orchid columns going back to 2003. Unfortunately, there is no index I could find. There are a lot of older articles available on the site but not linked from this, nor any other page I could find, so I use the Search box to find them.

[terryros]

I recently purchased (about $50) Chadwick's "The Classic Cattleyas" and have devoured it (more than once). Some of the chapters resemble what is on their web site. The book only covers the large-flowered, unifoliate cattleyas, but you learn great history AND there are wonderful details about the culture of each of the 20 or so species. Issues of which rests when and for how long are nicely covered. You don't buy this book for a few Cattleyas, but as you get more into this genera, it is a delicious book to have. It has great pictures as well.


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[wintergirl]

I really wouldn't say catts get a rest as in some other orchids but they do have different growing rates. Some of my smaller species seem to grow very slowly. Just in my experience....

[silken]

One of my bi-foliates (C. Waianai Leopard) appears to do absolutely nothing for 6 months of the year. I got it in Oct. 2014 and potted it up. It sat totally dormant until spring when it grew a new growth and produced a spike which bloomed in July. Since I cut the spike I have seen no change. I expect come spring it will start to grow and make up for lost time. Mine grows quite warm and bright in summer but does have cooler temps in the winter in the greenhouse (Max. 65F) and is under T5's. My friend who has the same plant but grows in her home year round has year round growth, but so far no blooms.

Hope that helps. It seems like this one for me has a cool winter rest and it may even help initiate bloom, but who knows for sure!

[Leafmite]

With Cattleyas that bloom just once a year, especially some of the species, they often do have a time when they are just growing roots and not doing anything else. Depending on how they are potted and the temperatures during this time, they may need to be kept drier so the roots do not rot. As they are not growing, fertilizer is not needed and fertilizing can cause foliage burn (or death, in the case of some of them). I always gave mine a steady source of Calcium, though.
Some of the Cattleyas are very influenced by light and, last year, when I still had some of my large species, they put out a second round of growth under the lights. Naturally, if that happens, you can't skip on the fertilizing.
Chadwick and Sons is a a great reference to understanding some of the species. The tales included are just wonderful, too.

[Ray]

Originally Posted by Leafmite

With Cattleyas that bloom just once a year, especially some of the species, they often do have a time when they are just growing roots and not doing anything else. Depending on how they are potted and the temperatures during this time, they may need to be kept drier so the roots do not rot. As they are not growing, fertilizer is not needed and fertilizing can cause foliage burn (or death, in the case of some of them).

But if they are growing roots, they're still growing, aren't they?

As difficult as it is for me (my wife claims my life's theme is "Nothing exceeds like excess"), I think this is an area where moderation pays off.

In nature, rain frequency determines the mass of nutrition the plants receive. If a plant has evolved in an area with distinct dry seasons, then a fertilizer-free "rest period" is probably appropriate.

Personally however, I just don't have the time (or inclination) to cater to individuals, so all of my plants - including those that see such dry spells - get fed with each watering, year 'round. Since that is now at a low fertilizer concentration however, that does not seem to interfere with growth and bloom cycles at all.

[Subrosa]

Originally Posted by silken

One of my bi-foliates (C. Waianai Leopard) appears to do absolutely nothing for 6 months of the year. I got it in Oct. 2014 and potted it up. It sat totally dormant until spring when it grew a new growth and produced a spike which bloomed in July. Since I cut the spike I have seen no change. I expect come spring it will start to grow and make up for lost time. Mine grows quite warm and bright in summer but does have cooler temps in the winter in the greenhouse (Max. 65F) and is under T5's. My friend who has the same plant but grows in her home year round has year round growth, but so far no blooms.

Hope that helps. It seems like this one for me has a cool winter rest and it may even help initiate bloom, but who knows for sure!

I have an opportunity to obtain a Waianai 'Leopard' which I hear is strongly fragrant, and am curious about your experience with your plant in this regard.

[Leafmite]

Originally Posted by Ray

But if they are growing roots, they're still growing, aren't they?

As difficult as it is for me (my wife claims my life's theme is "Nothing exceeds like excess"), I think this is an area where moderation pays off.

In nature, rain frequency determines the mass of nutrition the plants receive. If a plant has evolved in an area with distinct dry seasons, then a fertilizer-free "rest period" is probably appropriate.

Personally however, I just don't have the time (or inclination) to cater to individuals, so all of my plants - including those that see such dry spells - get fed with each watering, year 'round. Since that is now at a low fertilizer concentration however, that does not seem to interfere with growth and bloom cycles at all.

I had a dowiana for a time (it was sent to me accidentally), as well as a schroederae, and, supposedly, fertilizing during the rest period can kill them. I do not really know the validity of this as when I was growing all these future large, once-a-year blooming species/hybrid Cattleyas, I was happy to take a break from fertilizing during the winter. I can say that, after growing these Cattleya seedlings for many years, not fertilizing them during the winter didn't hurt them. I noticed on the seedlings that the roots grew all winter so I watered to care for the roots. I did need to keep them drier in the winter as they were in a large window that would get cooler. All of these were grown in large red lava rock and the dowiana and schroederae were grown in Vanda baskets while the others were in basket pots (so they dried quickly).

[Whimgrinder]

Originally Posted by Subrosa

I have an opportunity to obtain a Waianai 'Leopard' which I hear is strongly fragrant, and am curious about your experience with your plant in this regard.

I assume you mean BLC. Waianae Leopard 'Ching Hua', John - in which case I can assure you it is one of the most intoxicatingly, richly scented Cattleyas there are. A spike of 8 or 10 blooms perfumes my 11X16 greenhouse almost to excess.
As for its growing habits: it is most decidedly a once-a-year bloomer (July for me) that takes ages to mature a new growth. The year's new pseudobulb usually starts growth in late winter (March, sometimes earlier), and for the other six months of the year this clone appears to be doing absolutely nothing. I pretty much forget it is there during its prolonged "deep sleep", but when buds first appear, my excitement ramps up in anticipation of the color and fragrance it brings. You won't be disappointed! Blooms have substance like cast plastic and last for a month or more.