NOID Cattleya- suggestions for improving flower quantities

[AndreaK]

NOID Cattleya- suggestions for improving flower quantities are welcome. Identification guidance is welcome as well (I know hybrids are nearly impossible, but at least what type it is most like would be helpful).

The attached pictures show the actually divisions of one plant (divided spring of 2014). The large baskets are 12 in square plastic net pots, the smaller plant is in an 8 in. plastic pot. The plants have grown well, each putting out at least 5 new growths (one put out 11!). Sheath count was 21 this year, only 3 have budded. It roots generously as well. I am considering purchasing Kelpmax and Cal/Mag to add to my culture regime. I have noticed black spots beginning to form on the older leaf growth which appears to be from a calcium deficiency.

Current culture: for 3 large plants

Large bark in plastic net pots, (one is topped with sphagnum moss and grew outdoors in bright sun)
The other 2 were grown under a high output T-5 in a south facing window in MO. Blinds are used to break up the most intense sunlight during the mid-day hours.

Current culture: for 1 smaller plant

Large bark with sphagnum mixed through out medium

Watered: (RO water) twice weekly, heavily misted several times daily (especially roots exposed at the top of the pot). The plant kept outdoors received frequent rains (it was a very rainy season in MO this spring/summer). I also watered it if it did not rain every 3days.

Fertilizer: Better Gro Orchid Plus 20-14-13 & Better Gro Orchid Better-Bloom 11-35-15 (both are Urea-free)

Spring - August: 3 weeks 20-14-13 then 1 week 11-35-15 magnesium added once monthly in the form of Epsom Salts.

August - end of Active growth : 3weeks 11-35-15 then 1 week 20-14-13 ( I have not been as consistent with the schedule in this portion and many weeks are just clear water).

Super Thrive is added on occasion monthly/bimonthly. This will be replaced by KelpMax when I receive it.

A total of 4 blooms this year. I hope to make major improvements in bloom counts in 2016/2017.

The plants seem to have new growth through out the entire year. Thus, adding to the fertilizing dilemma (when to use what)! I have only had flowers during Jan./ Feb. in the past. It seems like the opportunity for flowers should be more frequent based on growth patterns.

[estación seca]

I would pick one of them and give it so much sun next summer it is on the edge of burning all summer. Then you will know for sure whether it is the warm-season light that matters.

You don't say how much fertilizer you're using.

If you already have great roots, kelp is unlikely to help. Its sole function is promoting root formation.

It could be a winter bloomer and conditions of warmth/light/temperature then are not ideal.

[AndreaK]

Originally Posted by estación seca

I would pick one of them and give it so much sun next summer it is on the edge of burning all summer. Then you will know for sure whether it is the warm-season light that matters.

You don't say how much fertilizer you're using.

If you already have great roots, kelp is unlikely to help. Its sole function is promoting root formation.

It could be a winter bloomer and conditions of warmth/light/temperature then are not ideal.

Approx. 1/2 tsp. per gallon. When I add Super Thrive it is approx. 1/4 tsp. per gallon. When I add Magnesium it is 1 tsp. per gallon.

I had also decided to flood the outdoor plant with more sunlight this year. I tend to burn them in transition though. Several ugly leaves tell the sad story of past abuse!

[Orchid Whisperer]

I'll offer a few suggestions
Fertilizer: I am getting better blooming by using a lower nitrogen fertilizer year round. It is your 11-35-15. My aim has been to use it every other week, 1/4 strength, during the warm months when plants are outdoors, maybe once a month when plants are indoors for the winter. Too much N and plants want to put most of their energy into making stems and leaves rather than flowers. Whether its urea-free or not really makes no difference.

Do try to increase light if possible- gradually.

Calcium provided by Cal Mag should work OK but is expensive. You can add calcium by mixing a little gypsum (or plaster of Paris) with your Epsom salts. Cheap and just as good.

[tucker85]

Identifying your plant will be very difficult because there are so many different lavender cattleyas available.......The number of flowers the plant produces is partly determined by the DNA of the plant. Some species and hybrids produce more flowers than others......One of the most important factors for optimizing flower count is the amount of light the orchid receives during the spring and summer growing season. That can be either slightly more intense light or a longer period of light during the day........Most cattleyas bloom better if they have a distinct growing season and blooming season. Give them good light, water and fertilizer during the spring and summer, when they're putting on new growth and significantly decrease the amount of water and fertilizer they receive in the fall. They will produce more flowers when they're stressed a little bit from the reduced water and nutrients. In fact, you could probably stop giving any fertilizer at all during the fall and winter. If you want to use a bloom booster fertilizer (11-35-15), I wouldn't use it more than once a month, even in the fall. Here, in South Florida, using a fertilizer that contains calcium and magnesium or a cal/mag supplement, improves plant health. I don't know if it's necessary in your area. Seaweed products are good supplements to use once or twice a month during the spring and summer. It will improve root growth and provide lots of micro-nutrients...... It sounds like you're giving your plants a lot of water. Maybe that works in your environment, I really don't know, but in general, cattleyas like to dry out completely from time to time. Maybe once a month, let them get completely dry before rewatering. We all have different environments so you need to experiment and see what works best for you. Good luck.

[Orchid Whisperer]

Hi Tucker

I saw your recommendation not to use a bloom boost fertilizer more than once a month. I was just curious why you give that recommendation?

I have only been doing this for a year, but I have been using that 11-35-15 BetterGro formula exclusively. My plants all seem to be doing very well with it, but is there some looming problem that I could be causing?

[tucker85]

If you're happy with the results you're getting then don't change anything. I was just referring to studies that have shown that growers use more phosphorus (the middle number) than orchids require. That led to the development of the MSU formula that has less phosphorus. Too much phosphorus can block other nutrients from being taken up by the orchid. Commercial and hobby growers here in Florida generally use a relatively balanced fertilizer, like your 20-14-13 or a low phosphorus fertilizer, with a small middle number, like 16-3-16. A few old timers that I know still use a bloom booster fertilizer but the ones I've talked to say that they never use it more than once a month. But, like I say, everyone grows under different conditions, so if you're happy with the result you're getting, don't change a thing.

[Orchid Whisperer]

Thanks Tucker.

I switched to this formulation because it was easy to get locally and met what I was looking for in terms of a somewhat lower nitrogen fertilizer than what I had been using. I do agree that the phosphorus provided is more than the plants probably need. I am not too concerned over what the plants waste, as it is a relatively small amount of N, P, and K each year anyway (what I apply to my orchid bench in the summer is much less than an equivalent area of lawn grass, for example).

I think a lot of the improvement I have seen is related to the lower N provided, rather than the higher P.

[emg53]

Thanks Tucker for that info. I know I over did the fertilizer and watering this summer. My BLC George King, which had never bloomed before, gave me 9 big beautiful p-bulbs this summer. Only the first two bloomed one flower each. I would much rather have only a few new p-bulbs that all bloom.