Should I repot my catt?

[Skirril]

I am a bit worried about the Catt I recently got (my first Catt), it's from a proper grower, appears to be in fine bark with moss around the centre under the bark. I got it last Tuesday, so it must be about a week since it was watered (I haven't watered it), but it is still moist and has condensation in the pot. It does have some good roots out side the bark, but most of the ones I can see inside appear to not look good, and from very minor probing there are some definitely dead ones in there.

So I am worried, but it is in flower and so I am reluctant to repot right now, also I currently don't have any CHC (medium) and bark (fine) soaked right now. And is med CHC and fien bark a good medium for catts?

The plant itself appears very healthy, so perhaps I am worrying without reason.

[Eyebabe]

Most cattleya blooms only last about 4-6 weeks so I don't think there is any harm waiting to repot until the blooms are done.

Then I would do the repot. Trim the roots well, use a root stimulator in your water when presoaking the media. Also use a rhysome clip to secure the plant in the pot to the new media.

[WhiteRabbit]

Maybe you can stick a bamboo skewer in the media (preferably in or near the center of the pot where the moss is to monitor the moisture) and make sure not to over-water (wait for it to be dry).

CHC (with added bark, or without, tho I'd go with medium grade, rather than fine), should be fine. Tho for me, chc in plastic pots stays wet too long for Catt types, tho I do use it in clay pots. Tho you can also use an overturned net pot, or some styro pnuts in the center of your pot (styro in the root mass), to help it dry (I do this when using sphag as the sole media) Of course, that's me - I'm sure others use chc in plastic pots for catts, and can manage. Skewer in the pot would be helpful, to make sure you don't overwater also (CHC can look dry, but still be moist inside the pot)

gl

[got ants]

I'll give you MY personal feelings on repotting and mediums, and you can take it from there...

I grow strictly outside, and currently out in the elements. That means my plants are vulnerable to rain, of which we get lots of this time of year. I have modified my medium to dry out fast in these conditions.

For me that means most of the medium is either fired clay pellets, or stallte. I use more stalite on the older catts, and some other medium that retains water for smaller plants (CHC/charcoal/bark). It also depends on what the plants wants. Some plants need a higher moisture medium, like C. Dowiana, while others prefer drier like L. purpurata var werkhauserii.

On another note, because of my growing conditions, I always repot new plants IMMEDIATELY, into what I think that plant needs, even with blooming flowers. In the past, I have waited for the blooms to end, to only have the plant completely rot out.

Again, this is how I do it. Your growing may dictate something else.

[Skirril]

Thanks all! It wouldn't be possible to grow a catt outside here, so I will be careful with water and repot when the flowers have finished.

If I were to repot while the catt was still in flower what would the result be? Should it not be done because it makes the flowers end quicker, or because new roots are only put out after the flowering has finished?

I will try to get some medium grade before I repot, but with fine would it keep moist too long, or would there not be enough spaces for the roots to grow? (I have repotted my phals in fine bark and med chc, and would like to know what to loo out for incase it's not good for them).

[RJSquirrel]

Repotting: Cattleyas and their related types are epiphytes; in nature, they grow attached to trees and rocks, not on the ground in soil. In most cases,it is unnecessary to regularly repot these types. Rather leave established divisions in their original pot, and when they begin to outgrow that pot, simply set the whole plant - pot and all - in another empty, slightly larger pot. The roots crawl around in the air-space between pots and the larger pot simply provides support for the plant to grow outward. Larger specimens are often in a relatively tiny pot, set in several successively larger empty pots, with the roots exposed. As time passes, the mix virtually vanishes, or there is such a minimal amount that there is no worry of its decaying and the roots rotting. Specimens may also be set into empty hanging pots or baskets, allowing the plant to grow over the sides and onto itself for great, round displays. Typically, we only repot 1) if we are making new divisions, 2) if we are starting a plant from seed, potting up until the plant gets to its mature, blooming size 3) if the plant is declining because of decomposed mix or failing roots. When we do repot, we select a pot which has good drainage and just fits around the root ball, allowing about 1-2 years growth before the plant goes over the edge. Plants that are over-potted have a harder time getting established and the mix tends to break down sooner. Plants should be potted firmly by pressing the mix in tightly around the roots.

trim the roots? I would never trim a healthy root off a catt just to repot it. That seems more like working in reverse to me.

[Eyebabe]

Originally Posted by RJSquirrel

trim the roots? I would never trim a healthy root off a catt just to repot it. That seems more like working in reverse to me.

I have always had a problem with placing a root ball with rotting media into a larger pot and packing fresh media around it.
Call me "unlucky", but that generally results in a decline in the plant for me to say the least.
So much so, that after about 5 years of growing mostly cattleyas(8 years total for orchids), I don't pot my cattleyas in bark anylonger and at some point transfer them all to s/h. I have been using s/h for about 1.5 years now.

When I repot with s/h, I allow the Prima Agra balls to drop off the plant roots when I remove it from the old pot. A few will stick to the roots and that is okay. I then place the plant in the larger pot and put fresh media in.
Aussie Gold medium is what I use for catts in small pots (less than 3.5 inches) and it works the same way when repotting...easily washes off the roots.
For both of these media, any remaining old media after the repot is not going to rot or become a nucleus for disease in the center of the plant.
I receive cattleya plants occasionally in sphag with clay pots and a simple soak for 20 minutes or so will remove most of the sphag quite nicely. However, you definitely need to be fastidious as you can't have old sphag remaining on your plant.

Bark mix is the MOST difficult imho to clean off a root system.


Furthermore, yes, cut your roots! This is what you need to do in order to stimulate the growth of NEW roots in your new potting material.
When I visited a cattleya grower, I was shown how to cut the roots. The individual cut a few divisions for me and trimmed them up for repot and yes I was speechless! He told me you have to make the plant grow new roots. I have had MUCH greater success in repotting my plants into s/h with a neater root trim!
Next time I repot some of my newer hybrids from their bark to s/h I will take pics and make a post.

[got ants]

I have trimmed roots before, but have not noticed it helping or hurting, as much as I have noticed good media promote growth.

Like I previously said, how you grow, were you grow, will dictate on what medium you use. I know lots of growers that use pine bark, but most of them grow under plastic (generally commercial growers) and they don't have to deal with rain.

Another thing that is imperative, is making sure the rhizome is pinned down firmly with a clip. Any movement of the plant, and it will stop root growth.