I killed my CATTLEYA WARSCEWICZII .......

[peeweelovesbooks]

Tell me what I did wrong.

I want to buy another one. I want to grow these successfully.


I bought it in January. It was potted in bark. I repotted it in LECA. I read it needed lots of light, so I gave it lots of light. I read it didn't require too much water, so I didn't give it a lot of water.

The leaves started wrinkling.

So then I started giving it water.

It never grew roots. Then it started making a new growth. Then it died.

I'm ashamed.



Tell me what I did wrong so I won't kill the next one.

Thanks

[zxyqu]

Just from the sound of it, I'd imagine it was a root problem. Might have occurred when you switched media, as I'd imagine the bark holds more moisture than the LECA. I am guessing a bit though. Were you doing S/H, or just using LECA as the media? Either way it sounds like tha plant wasn't getting enough water, so the leaves shriveled (did they also get really weak/limp?), and didn't have enough energy to put into the new growth.

[Roly0217]

Maria this is a quote from Chadwich and Sons website. Hope it helps some.
How to Grow Cattleya warscewiczii

MOST people do not grow or flower Cattleya warscewiczii well. If you want to enjoy a really strong flower spike, you should start C. warscewiczii growing as early as possible in late January or early February. You do this by giving it full sun and teasing it with light spraying of water on sunny days. Once the “eye” (growing point) breaks and begins to grow, continue to give it light sprayings of water and as much sun as it can take without burning. The leaves should be a yellow-green and you will need lots of air moving around the plants to keep the leaves from getting warm. Once the leaves feel warm to the touch, you will have to add enough shade to prevent the plants from burning.

Cattleya warscewiczii should not receive much water until the new growth is at least 4 inches tall. Too much water, too early, seems to retard rather than stimulate good flower production, and even early growers like Linden felt this was important enough to call to the attention of their customers.

As the growth gets taller, slowly begin to increase the amount of water, but even when you are giving it heavy waterings, always let it dry out thoroughly before watering again. The old pseudobulbs should be fully plump by the time the new leaf begins to emerge.

If you want a fine tall spike of flowers, be careful not to allow the plant to get too warm as the buds emerge from the sheath; otherwise, the spike will tend to curve over and spread the flowers horizontally rather than their normal beautiful vertical conformation. It can be difficult to keep C. warscewiczii cool enough when the outside summer temperature is over 90 F. We often move our C. warscewiczii from the greenhouse onto a cool porch once the buds emerge until the whole spike is open.

The right time to repot C. warscewiczii is immediately after it has flowered, since this is the time it will normally send out a flush of new roots from the newest pseudo-bulb. Never repot it just before it begins to grow because it will need all the roots it has to handle the new growth and flower spike.

Because it makes such a heroic effort to grow, root and produce its huge flower spike in such a short time, C. warscewiczii needs a long rest after flowering if you want another good flowering the following year. Allowing it to make another growth after flowering should be avoided although I have found a really strong-growing plant may not always cooperate with you on this

[Roly0217]

So based on what I read it does need lots of light but not to the point of burning; misting while the new growth is young and then watering regularly letting it dry between waterings and try to inhibit growth after the plant blooms.

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[Eyebabe]

C warscewiczii like a few of the large flowering cattleya species only tolerates a repot well when the roots are coming.
Maria, I think you repotted it after the new roots of the season had established and before any new growth/pseudobulb had sprouted up to flower.
Thus, it would not have brought out any new roots to the new media and probably could not get enough water/nutrition to grow a new pseudobulb.
I don't have a warscewiczii and don't plant on getting one for a while yet...

On an aside note, I LOVE Arthur Chadwick's book and have read it and referenced it multiple times. I credit that volume for my initial inspiration and admiration of the large flowering cattleyas which are the current focus of my collection

[peeweelovesbooks]

Originally Posted by zxyqu

Just from the sound of it, I'd imagine it was a root problem. Might have occurred when you switched media, as I'd imagine the bark holds more moisture than the LECA. I am guessing a bit though. Were you doing S/H, or just using LECA as the media? Either way it sounds like tha plant wasn't getting enough water, so the leaves shriveled (did they also get really weak/limp?), and didn't have enough energy to put into the new growth.

Yes, the wrinkled like a sharpei and became floppy. It was LECA but not SH.

[isurus79]

Originally Posted by Eyebabe

Maria, I think you repotted it after the new roots of the season had established and before any new growth/pseudobulb had sprouted up to flower.
Thus, it would not have brought out any new roots to the new media and probably could not get enough water/nutrition to grow a new pseudobulb.

Eyebabe hit the nail on the head and Roly's article from Chadwick corroborates this theory. I think you lost plant simply because of timing. Unless absolutely necessary, only repot plants when they are throwing new roots, especially when doing a complete media changeout.

[Oscarman]

RIP C. warscewiczii

Here is hoping for better culture. I too love Chadwick book on Catts. So much detailed info on each species.