Cattleya violacea

[SP2340]

Whoa, beautiful!! That lip is insane!!

[kavanaru]

Originally Posted by Rosim_in_BR

I've been successful in adapting seedlings, Ramon. Light is no problem here as you know, a little bit warmer temps during the day I can achieve by enclosing the shade house, but nights are the true problem!
How's yours adapting?

it is doing well so far I have it since few months here, and have produced a new PB since then...let's see..

It is also a bit slowers, as it is a 4N plant...

[Leisurely]

I agree with Ramon. This is my favorite Cattleya species.
I recently acquired two large seedlings in 4" pots and I am going to try growing them in sphagnum in a semi-hydro pot with aliflor for moisture retention. Filling the pot half full of aliflor or expanded shale should provide a level of humidity that they like. One local grower says he has success growing in sphagnum that is kept evenly moist during warm weather and allowed to become nearly dry during the cold months.

[Rosim_in_BR]

Originally Posted by Leisurely

I agree with Ramon. This is my favorite Cattleya species.
I recently acquired two large seedlings in 4" pots and I am going to try growing them in sphagnum in a semi-hydro pot with aliflor for moisture retention. Filling the pot half full of aliflor or expanded shale should provide a level of humidity that they like. One local grower says he has success growing in sphagnum that is kept evenly moist during warm weather and allowed to become nearly dry during the cold months.

I've been growing mine in sphagnum too with good results!

[Rosim_in_BR]

Originally Posted by Jan Pahl

Mauro at Caracas we also have trouble growing this species because lack of heat and humidity at "winter", but in nature violacea adapts quite well till reach 800 meters above sea level so they are capable to thrive or at least adapt to more mild climates.

Here is what by trial and error we found here at Caracas to avoid this slow health decaying.

I think your problem is more cultural, I see that you grow your own like a standard Cattleyas and yes seedlings adapt to that media but not adult plants through the years. You would need a hard citricus branch (for example lemon tree branch) properly dry to avoid wood decomposition, the other media they like is thin xaxim slabs but the more hard-compact ones you manage to obtain...You will see a improvement with this and remember always grow violaceas hanging from the ceiling, not in comunitary tables. The main reason is that violaceas likes to grow this way on nature... on dry months you can use live tillandsia usneoides (oldsman bear)
http://www.fotonaturaleza.net/fotos/...o_1_JPG_75.JPG
to avoid dryness or simply refresh with water the nursery floor often... also they are "myst" fans that do that work,if you have one, put your violaceas near it. I think spagnum moss is to much for air open-space loving violaceas,maybe at dry months you can use it at the base oof the mounted plants, but I prefer live tillandias.

By the way, excelent plant.

Edit.

Contact Bruno De Toni at this forum... he is growing sucsesfully violaceas right know.

Thanks for the hints, Jan. I'm trying some plants the way you say to see if I can get better results.
Interesting idea using Tylandsia usneoides to improve humidity around the plant!

[catwalker808]

I agree with Jan that the problems with the mature plants may be more of a cultural problem than mainly climate, especially if juvenile plants are growing ok.

I have several hundred violaceas of different types and sizes at this time (tipos, striatas, flameas, semi-albas ... juveniles, adults, specimen sizes). I would not compare my growing conditions with Rosim's because we don't have a real winter. In fact, looking up the habitat and climate of violaceas (which have altitudes of 500 feet to 2300 feet), even though we are nearly at sea level, our temperature ranges are apparently optimum for violaceas. In our dry summer season, temps are 85-87 F days (occasionally 92 F) and 70-75 F nights. Our wet winter temps are 75-85 F days and 60-70 F nights (occasionally our days go to 60 F (15 C) and nights to 49 to 52 F (around 10 C). So ideal violacea temps are somewhere between minimum phal and near maximum cattleya temps, although they can take occasional periods into the 40's (5-10 C).

The problem with the mature plants may be due to the size of the root ball. Under proper climate conditions, violaceas are very vigorous growers. Our more mature plants may produce 3-4 new growths a year. Some plants have regularly bloomed 4 times a year. Even younger plants bloom twice until they become larger. With the vigorous growth, plants produce many roots, which on larger plants, may create a large root ball (if in a pot).

On a smaller plant, with smaller root ball, the root ball could dry out soon enough. With a large plant, and large root ball, the roots may stay too wet too long, especially if sphagnum is involved. I prefer to plant in a very coarse and VERY well-drained medium (up to 10-12 cm pot). Jan says he prefers mounting and hanging plants. That would work well also. We have too many to really do that. When plants need a 15 cm pot, they are very large with long roots. I place the plant into a large plastic pot, with a layer of styrofoam peanuts. Then the plant sits on the styrofoam with a few chunks of 5-7 cm bark or cork just to provide attachment for the roots. For this size plant, a hanging mount would look and work nicely. Or a large clay pot would provide weight. A wire plant clip would be helpful for positioning the plant in plastic or clay pot. I find that the plastic pot, with minimal potting medium still provides enough residual moisture for the roots, between daily or every other day waterings. And the minimal potting medium allows complete air circulation to all the roots.

Once again, I am posting a photo of a very large violacea (plant is about 35 cm tall) It is in very coarse light weight rock, but now I use even less media and pot it further down.

[kavanaru]

Originally Posted by Rosim_in_BR

Interesting idea using Tylandsia usneoides to improve humidity around the plant!

Mauro, the use of Tillandsia has also proven to be very good for Vanda growers. Just keep the Vanda in the Vanda-Baskett and let lots of Tillandias usneoides grow around the roots... I have seenimpressive results.. A friend at the OS was always afraid of Vandas, for not being able to provide enogh humidity and not being able to water every day (few Vandas had died with him and others never bloomed) Somebody gave him this tipp and now he has fantastic vandas... watering them only twice a week!

[ChrisFL]

Great post, 808.

[Rosim_in_BR]

Good points, Catwalker and Jan.
Nevertheless, I'm inclined to think that my using of sphagnum is not a major problem. Actually, when I say I grow in moss I want to say that I use a mix, in this case, of 60% sphagnum and 40% peanuts of white Styrofoam in clay pots with very good transpiration. Also, I use in the bottom larger pieces of Styrofoam as drainage material and the plants are all hanging in bright places. As a result, the sphagnum doesn't compact allowing a perfect drainage. The clay pots transpiration also helps to quickly eliminate any excess of water. So, I can, and indeed I do, water every other day without any worries about producing a damp, too wet environment around the roots. That doesn't happen. Watering every other day also promotes an almost constant influx of fresh air around the roots. So, this is not a real problem too. My growing area is covered with transparent plastic film, so I have total control of the water. Despite all that, something is missing to really boost the plants. The idea of using Tillandsia is very interesting...
By the way, Ramon, I was thinking of the possibility of using Tillandsia around the Vandas and you gave me the answer! Thanks!!

[Phyrex]

Lovely pink