A better photo of Bl Sunet Glory
In summary, this is the passive hydro method I use most of the time. I aim to use a nutrient solution of approximately 120ppm Nitrogen which would be about 1/2 tsp/gallon of a commonly available fertilizer labeled 20 for Nitrogen. I often add just a couple of drops/gallon of a growth regulator such KLN until good roots form.
If I have time I change the solution several times a week (you cannot over do this) and aim for a minimum of 1x/week.
I use at least 12-16 ounces of solution or more as needed to accomodate and cover roots at all time. For this purpose I keep topping up every day if needed with about 1/2 strength solution or just plain tapwater if I do not have time.
I also have to emphasize that I remove all decaying roots and stuff initially, and as soon as I see them and leave only healthy roots in water. I treat for infection vigorously as long as I see signs of it, usually with drugstore hydrogen peroxide 3%, and if rot has penetrated deeply, with Gentian violet !%. On the other hand, I let green algae grow since this probably helps keep pathological organisms under control. I respect the old saying, "Nature abhors a vacuum" . If I do not see healthy green algae growing it often means the conditions are not healthy for roots either.
My minimum temperatures seldom go below 60 degrees F and stay mostly above 70 in the Winter. Warmer temperatures definitely aid root formation with most tropical orchids.
I hope this helps. You can also search this board for my many previous posts on this subject, here are some links
http://www.orchidboard.com/community...r-culture.html
Onc. Sharry Baby in water culture
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