Brassavola glauca - Roots before/after new growth?

[MateoinLosAngeles]

I have a Brassavola glauca that is a bit of a laggard. Not sure if this species is particularly slow to grow.

I have it in a plastic pot with chunky bark, my understanding is that it liked a bit more moisture around the roots than other Cattleyas. However, I haven't seen the root growth I would've liked to see by now and after reading on the Baker's sheets that some even grow on the ground in very dry areas, I'm thinking it might be craving to be potted in a basket.

Since it's not a very strong plant at the moment, but I don't wanna lose it because it comes from a promising cultivar, I wanna make sure I repot it at the right time.

It has a new pbulb growing atm, does anyone know if B. glauca shoots its roots with the new growth or if it's an after-bloom rooter, meaning, it waits until the new growth is mature to shoot new roots? I don't wanna miss the repotting window if it's short.

[Roberta]

I'd just watch for roots... you can also feel bumps at the base of new growth before they actually emerge. Empirical over theoretical would be my choice.

I have found that these do better for me in baskets than in pots, but that's been my conclusion for Catts in general under my conditions.

[Pegleg]

My B. glauca has never been a strong grower but, it is still trying at least. I only have a couple of notes for this one, both say the new roots came from recently bloomed mature growths.

[Johndeaux22]

It should be somewhat similar to R. Digbyana in habit; mine roots after growth. KelPak seems to help the process along. I repotted when I had a snail infestation, and spent medium…admittedly wasn’t the best timing, I lost one seemingly stunted new growth, but otherwise no set back. I also run it in VERY bright light - at the corner of a S and W window in my sun room. Got a little bit of sunburn in the first week, but everything that has grown since seems to love it. Currently growing in a 6” terra cotta pot in 100% medium (power?) Orchiata, sat in a saucer with a layer of LECA, watered 3x weekly in summer with 75ppm target K-lite, once a week in the cooler months with 25PPM target K-lite once a month. Seems to like what it’s getting, as I got 6 new growths since repot in January.

[Arne]

According to my experience, Rl glauca does not like water more than other Cattleyas. I really make sure mine dries out before I water it. And it wants a lot of light.

[isurus79]

Originally Posted by Arne

According to my experience, Rl glauca does not like water more than other Cattleyas. I really make sure mine dries out before I water it. And it wants a lot of light.

Exactly. It grows in a more xeric environment than most Cattleyas.

---------- Post added at 06:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:15 PM ----------

I've got a massive plant and it's only now starting on new growth for the year.

[MateoinLosAngeles]

Thank you all for the tips! I don't know where I got that this species liked extra humidity around the roots. I must've either read the wrong culture note or mixed it up in my head when I first repotted it about a year ago. I've just transferred it to a basket with orchiata super (the chunkiest).

Mine has also just started growth, hopefully, if the roots don't tolerate this repot, it will be able to use its reserves to mature this new growth and push out new roots. I've also moved it to my highest light shelf where I keep, among others, my indoor Catasetinae, Brassavola nodosa, nodosa hybrids, Encyclia, Myrmecophila grandiflora, and some carnivorous plants (this is lower light than they would appreciate at about 16 DLI on a 14h day, but they do fine).

---- Edit:

I might start using Notion to keep track of my cultural notes, so this mix up doesn't happen again

[Roberta]

Where you live, it likely also could be quite happy outside. Rl. digbyana is OK, Rl glauca is even more cold-tlerant.

[MateoinLosAngeles]

Originally Posted by Roberta

Where you live, it likely also could be quite happy outside. Rl. digbyana is OK, Rl glauca is even more cold-tlerant.

My problem is light, I have a balcony but it’s not top floor, so some shadowing happens. West facing, during summer it can get 4-6h of direct sun. I keep Sarracenia, Monstera, and a (non-producing) olive tree, I’m also acclimating some Catasetum to get the afternoon sun (which they seem to tolerate really well), and have B. nodosa getting those afternoon rays as well without issue. I can tell light is not the “bestest” because the olive tree has been a bit sluggish, Sarracenia seem to be doing okay but some of the cultivars I grow would turn ruby red under the right light, this year they are green-orange, when I had them indoors right below the lights to ensure a 23 DLI they would be a beautiful red. I have some other plants placed behind the railing, which has a decorative grid that filters light, this was enough to make some terrestrials bloom and some polka dot plants are thriving there. I can’t mount shade cloth due to community rules, so the options are placing plants under afternoon sun, behind the railing or behind a bush or tree. Unfortunately, I measured the light using the Photone App and the shaded areas would probably be too shaded, the direct sunlight area might work if the plant can tolerate the heat (I think it can acclimate to it based on nodosa) but in fall/winter, when the sun is further south, I doubt it will have enough light. So it’ll be a consideration of whether I want to add another plant to the summer outdoors/winter indoors gang. Those that go dormant are less of a concern but for the rest I really dread pests haha