What is your experience in making Cattleyas bloom?

[StanTheMan]

Here I'll put two plants because there's not much to them.

First is my most recent acquisition, a gorgeous Potinara Dick Smith 'Paradise'. The plant is huuuge. Not only did I put it in a ceramic pot, but I filled that pot with marble rocks, and the plant is still sorta unstable haha. You see a close-up to one of its dark leaves and you see a bit of one of its lighter leaves. Most of its leaves are dark green but it came in full bloom, so maybe this one is less picky with light levels? It has 33.77% of Cattleya dowiana, the most abundant species on its background.

The other one is a bifoliate Cattleya Pittiae. Also dehydrated and it put out a super tiny growth under my care. Currently I don't know if it has living roots but seems as if it's going to start putting out new roots. I obviously don't expect blooms from this one for at least a year, but any care tips and advice are greatly appreciated, especially since I'm not that familiarized with bifoliates. It's a primary between Catt. loddigesii and Catt. schilleriana.

Thank you for reading so far,

Stan

[Roberta]

In photo 3 of the first group (where you have many plants), it looks like not enough light for Catts. In the photos where there are strong shadows, that's more like what Catts need. The next question would be, for how many hours do the ones with the shadows get that good light? The intensity looks good, but light duration is also important. (They need good light like that for 6-8 hours per day)

[StanTheMan]

Originally Posted by Roberta

In photo 3 of the first group (where you have many plants), it looks like not enough light for Catts. In the photos where there are strong shadows, that's more like what Catts need. The next question would be, for how many hours do the ones with the shadows get that good light? The intensity looks good, but light duration is also important. (They need good light like that for 6-8 hours per day)

Wow, thank you! That good light was just for taking the pictures, to provide with the same conditions and make color comparison easy. I thought the light with the lots of plants was great for catts!

And also, remembering what you said, I'd say our lowest temps here on extreme days might be around 3ºC (37.4ºF). Recently we had a cold wave and it was around 8ºC (46.4ºF). I have heard people from my local association saying L. purpurata can easily grow outdoors no problem. And I do have an outdoors space but it would be full sun starting around noon all the way til sunset. Do you think that would do?

Thanks for your input,

Stan.

[Roberta]

Your outdoor space sounds good. If the sun is too indense, you can reduce it a bit with shade cloth. I would suggest not moving the plants outside right now, in winter. In spring, once nights warm up a little (consistently above 10-12 deg C) so that they can acclimate (and also gently acclimate to brighter light as well). Then they will have have the range of seasons, next winter will be no problem for many of them. (A plant where with a lot of C. dowiana in its background won't like the cold, but L. purpurata will have no problem at all) I grow most of my Catts outside all year - my winter lows are routinely around 4-5 deg C (approximately 38-40 deg F) and occasionally lower for a few hours. C. dowiana and luddemanniana are just about the only common ones that need winter warmth... I don't grow them, I don't have room in the greenhouse for big plants. But that leaves a lot that are fine outside... L (C) purpurata and relatives, C intermedia, C labiata, C. warneri, C. percivaliana.. the list goes on and on. Of course hybrids with any of these species are also fine with the cold.

I grow most of them under 50% or 60% shade cloth - but my yard gets intense summer sun for the whole day, with no trees, so I do need to "take the edge off" a little.

[isurus79]

Don't forget walkeriana will do just fine in those temps

[StanTheMan]

Originally Posted by Roberta

Your outdoor space sounds good. If the sun is too indense, you can reduce it a bit with shade cloth. I would suggest not moving the plants outside right now, in winter. In spring, once nights warm up a little (consistently above 10-12 deg C) so that they can acclimate (and also gently acclimate to brighter light as well). Then they will have have the range of seasons, next winter will be no problem for many of them. (A plant where with a lot of C. dowiana in its background won't like the cold, but L. purpurata will have no problem at all) I grow most of my Catts outside all year - my winter lows are routinely around 4-5 deg C (approximately 38-40 deg F) and occasionally lower for a few hours. C. dowiana and luddemanniana are just about the only common ones that need winter warmth... I don't grow them, I don't have room in the greenhouse for big plants. But that leaves a lot that are fine outside... L (C) purpurata and relatives, C intermedia, C labiata, C. warneri, C. percivaliana.. the list goes on and on. Of course hybrids with any of these species are also fine with the cold.

I grow most of them under 50% or 60% shade cloth - but my yard gets intense summer sun for the whole day, with no trees, so I do need to "take the edge off" a little.

Alright, so the hybrid that is (RLC Chia Lin x Catt lueddemanniana) should stay indoors for winter, but the rest are fine outdoors, of course after gradually acclimating them in spring. I guess what I can do right now is gradually acclimate them to strong light since during winter is when I get direct sunlight on one side of the appartment. Those Catts are lovely and also in my list, so it is good knowing that! Thank you so much for your help

May you have a good year,

Stan.

---------- Post added at 09:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:41 PM ----------

Originally Posted by isurus79

Don't forget walkeriana will do just fine in those temps

Thank you, Isurus! I have an itch for these Catts, bifoliate with the walkeriana - loddigesii - nobilior. Their shape is just exquisite. Alright so back to the bucket list to bulk it up even more hahaa.

Cheers and you too have a good year,

Stan

[Roberta]

Oh yes, C loddigesii, harrisoniana, Gur. skinnerii, bowringiana, aurantiaca are also on the "outdoors" list.

[Leafmite]

Sometimes professional growers can get a Cattleya to bloom before the rest of us can so give it an extra year or two. If it has not previously bloomed, it might just need to get a little larger and stronger before it blooms.

If your orchids has previously bloomed, it might just need more light. Some Cattleyas need more light to bloom than others, depending on their ancestry.

[StanTheMan]

I will be definitely doing some Cattleya shopping once I pass the "beginner challenge" (sometimes I go on a pause from buying new plants to really focus on the ones I currently have). This is my Dick Smith, which has begun to sprout. New roots are emerging, so I will be repotting it one of these days. And so begins the 6-months-or-so marathon to see if I managed to make this plant bloom (I know that given the change, from a greenhouse to a normal home environment, the plant might not bloom even with ideal home conditions, but lets be optimistic since it is a comlex hybrid ).

Thank you for your advice and happy growing :3

Stan

[estación seca]

You're in Mexico City, yes? The purpurata hybrid could go out now. Your winter sun isn't strong enough to burn it, and it won't mind those temperatures. I think it's too small to flower.

The dowiana hybrids should stay warm inside.

The bifoliate needs a lot of water when in growth. I find Cattleya seedlings use more water than almost any other orchid of the same size. That degree of underwatering can cause loss of new growths.

I agree the main blooming problem is lack of light. The leaves should be a little yellow.