To divide or not to divide: that is the question

[SouthPark]

To D or not to D ...... that is the question.

The answer ..... is for the moment ..... to not D.

[Ray]

I think the general guidance is that each division should have a minimum of 2 or 3 old growth and an emerging new one. The plant shown cannot be divided that way, other than just removing the old growths.

[K-Sci]

Originally Posted by Ray

I think the general guidance is that each division should have a minimum of 2 or 3 old growth and an emerging new one. The plant shown cannot be divided that way, other than just removing the old growths.

I agree - 2 as an *absolute minimum*. I've had one two bulb cattleya division, ever, that didn't skip 1 or 2 years before flowering again. Three bulb divisions will often skip a year but occasionally don't. For a good strong division that will most likely flower within a year, four bulbs is a good minimum, and five is even better.

As you know, I advocate never dividing a plant that isn't in active root growth, which with cattleyas usually means a new growth has started.



-Keith

[SouthPark]

Another reason to have an adequate number of bulbs for dividing can also be the possible need for some points where dormant eyes can grow - especially for maybe back-bulbs.

It probably isn't clear yet whether catts with no 'eyes' can actually generate new eyes if needed. But - assuming a catt can't generate 'new' eyes from old grow rhizome or old bulbs, and assuming they need to rely on existing dormant eyes ------- then having spare eyes could be beneficial - in case one eye starts growing for doesn't make it - for some reason. So the more dormant eyes ------ the bigger the chance of making it.

[StanTheMan]

Hello, everyone. Sorry to get back at you this late, week has been crazy with work. I appreciate all of your comments. Reading them, I decided I will not touch it. I was curious on that razorblade - nail thing, but hey, if the plant is doing great, then there's no need to change a thing. And I'm relieved on those backbulbs. I once lost a beautiful Laelia to a fungi that developed way too fast, so you understand my concern.

@SouthPark: thank you for your detailed comments. I did buy it from a nursery, I guess, recently, and it had this bright green color that results from receiving good good light. At the moment I believe it has turned darker (fortunately I take photos when I just buy them for future reference), but the flowers have faded so now I can move it to its definite growing area (I had it by the dining room, not enough light for Catts). Now, I have three options for it: east-northish facing window with light through a sheer curtain form morning til noon or on the outter area receiving some direct light and some shade from the tree that's there (same place, just wouldn't have the sheer curtain). Or, a north-eastish window with no direct sunlight but rather bright light all day long, or south facing window with light through a sheer curtain from, idk maybe 2pm till sunset. The latter is my preferred one as it is the warmest room in the house, which I believe will please my orchids better.

As for fertilizing, I do try to apply every other watering this fertilizer on a dose of two drops per liter (see picture in next reply). It has worked well on my phals and on my Oncidium Sharry Baby, sometimes I forget and I give it two fertilizer waterings in a row, but then it is quite diluted I think, so no biggie. I also got osmocote recently, haven't applied it to any orchid yet, but I believe I'm still missing Calcium and Magnesium with this fertilizer. Any suggestions? And if, by any chance, you know of any product rich in iron, please let me know, as I will be growing a Laelia milleri soon and I'd like to give it its needed amount of iron.

Again, thanks all for your input,

Stan.

---------- Post added at 08:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:43 PM ----------



This is the fertilizer I'm currently using and, as I said, I also have osmocote though I'm not using it yet.

[Fairorchids]

This plant is what I consider a 'PITA'. It has not produced a second new lead, and only grown in a straight line.

If if needs repotting, I would cut off the two oldest PBs. I would pot those in a 3" pot with spaghnum moss, and hope that they would start a new lead.

Generally, I want the plants to produce multiple leads on their own. I might help them along, by cutting the rizome (so there is a 2-3 PB BB division) prior to repotting.

When I have large plants, I look to divide into 4-5 PB front lead divisions, and 3-4 PB BB divisions.

[StanTheMan]

Originally Posted by Fairorchids

This plant is what I consider a 'PITA'. It has not produced a second new lead, and only grown in a straight line.

If if needs repotting, I would cut off the two oldest PBs. I would pot those in a 3" pot with spaghnum moss, and hope that they would start a new lead.

Generally, I want the plants to produce multiple leads on their own. I might help them along, by cutting the rizome (so there is a 2-3 PB BB division) prior to repotting.

When I have large plants, I look to divide into 4-5 PB front lead divisions, and 3-4 PB BB divisions.

Thanks! I will decide on separating the back bulbs when I will repot it. If they are much unlikely to sprout, then I'd rather leave it to the plant to absorb all of the nutrients from it x) but no division other than that.