Light Requirements Amongst Cattleya Alliance

[thefish1337]

Originally Posted by estación seca

Different phone CCD chips (charge capture device, the camera chip) have different parameters. Unless the software was written for the specific CCD in a specific phone it will not be accurate.

I mentioned in my post that it is not perfect but it will be a close enough value to make a meaningful measurement/estimate in most cases. If I take my phone and measure my LED it is within <5% of the published values by the maker. i have a 3 generation old samsung for reference. the sensors should respond in a reproducible manner for a given light source so even if its not perfect it will give you a number that you can use that will help you adjust your orchids light level. still beats the guess and check method I used before- my growing area is more dialed than its ever been just by using a free phone app and some multiplication. I have also identified spots on my balcony that I can put my aussie dens and anceps without burning them- last years new canes on the dendrobium lost their leaves to leaf scorch. Maybe one day I'll shell out for the apogee meter and perfectly measure light but this works well enough to get my plants in the right light much quicker.

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by thefish1337

i have a 3 generation old samsung for reference.

Nice! That's ahead of mine haha. I still use Samsung S2 GT-i9210T, getting a bit ancient heheh. Not sure whether the latest ones are easy to tweak and to get root access. The old ones are good in that we can usually tweak their settings (like disabling camera beeps, recording beeps, and another annoying features) - without 'bricking' the phone - 'brick' = permanently out of action.

[Fairorchids]

Fishy,

Theory is wonderful, but it does not always keep up with reality. I have done this for years (12+), so I know that it works.

A much simpler way to look at this is, what does a plant need to grow?

• Light
• Nutrients
• Water

If you increase any one factor, you must increase the other two factors as well. And then, you get results that few have ever seen.

Some years ago, I purchased 4 Laelia anceps from SBOE. They arrived late in the spring, potted in rocks. I repotted into my mix, and kept them indoors that summer. Each plant set 1 or 2 new growths.

The following year they got the full sun treatment. Each plant (with 4 or 5 pseudobulbs each), set from 3 to 5 new growths with the full sun treatment. The 5 PB plant that set 5 new growths, also produced a flower spike from each of the new growths.

I give the full sun treatment to my Cymbidiums, Aussie Dendrobiums, reed stem Epidendrums and Vandas as well. In all cases, I get plant growth and flower production WAY ahead of what is normally seen.

Lastly, I have tried this treatment for both Den. phalaenopsis types (they can't quite handle the light), and Den. nobile types. The latter can handle it, IF you harden the plant in 2 or 3 steps (heavy shade, then medium, then light and finally full sun). That is too much work, so I don't do that any more.

[nuriko1set]

Hello, I am a very new grower. I'm not sure what does high light mean in terms of FC or Lux? I currently have my cattleya and Phalaenopsis under a grow light. The Cattleya is fairly close to it (since it's taller) and the FC is around 1500 - 2000FC, and the Phal. is much shorter and gets round 800 - 900FC. Can anyone let me know if these numbers fit the needs of these different plants?

Also, what is considered High light, and medium light and low light?
Thank you!