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  #51  
Old 01-31-2017, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Patrick.Orchidee View Post
Maybe a stupid question... but i am an beginner with Catasetum.
I've read several times about the root length, BUT the roots are in the pot... how do you know how long they are?
Its tough with solid pots. Just wait until early May to water.
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  #52  
Old 01-31-2017, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by u bada View Post
Those are pretty awesome Bil... I've noticed that certain growers that grow things in moss in baskets, the moss can look super bad, and somehow the plants look great... not the case in plants planted in pots with moss. From an aesthetic standpoint your project of baskets from rebar just look sculptural and cool... whereas the usual plastic baskets look too I dunno industrial... but back to practicalities here... when I've gotten plants grown in moss in baskets before I used to try to repot asap and get all the moss off from the roots... and if that didn't downright kill the plant, it set it back big time. It's hard to say why but as you mentioned, because the moss is exposed to air through the basket and able to dry out faster it seems to last longer and also to the extent even when the moss is really decayed remains good for orchids to grow in... one theory someone discussed with me is that when used in a basket the moss can remain open enough for roots, in addition to lasting longer... furthermore, having them sit over a pan/container is a good idea as hanging baskets can dry so quickly... it can get so dry here that if I did a similar project (which I don't have space for essentially) I'd let the bottom cm touch the bottom so water can wick up into moss on dry days to last longer...

Also, I'm a bit confused... isn't it winter there also? I'm kinda wondering how yours has leaves + growth on them now? or are they old pictures?
Thank you very much. Those designs arose because a spherical basket held too much moss, risking the centre going anoxic, and a flat hexagonal basket presented the bars to a stan bud as a continuous sheet of steel.
So I came up with a hanging saucer of a basket, that because it was thin at the edges should wick away water fast, so the moss wasn't sodden continuously.
That has an enormous effect. Mounts that have a small amount of moss hardly show signs of a fungal attack, but my sesquipedal orchid, that seems to like wet feet, and has quite a lump of moss, its mount is showing clear signs of fungal attack and rot. and the moss looks more like soil now.
Compare that to the Stan moss, which has been there for the same time, and that moss is hardly broken down at all. So, I think by soaking the moss, and then letting it dry rapidly, you may end up watering that orchid every day, but the moss will take far longer to degrade.

I used to try to repot asap and get all the moss off from the roots... and if that didn't downright kill the plant, it set it back big time.

Yeah. I can imagine. I tried doing much the same once, and gave up precisely because the roots were hanging onto the moss for dear life.
Here is what I plan to do when it is time to repot the stans or the catasetums in pure moss.
First off, unless the moss looks really degraded, I won't.
second, if it looks bad, I will tak the orchid out, brush off lightly what I can, then wash the root mass in room temp water.
My reasoning is, the roots can't hang onto broken down moss, so that ought to wash out, right?

I would be eternally grateful if someone could point out any glaring flaws in this that I have overlooked.

I was planning to do the same with my large phals in their big pots. Tip out all the big bits, then wash out the broken down bark. That OUGHT to save damaging the roots by taking it wholly out of the pot.

"I'd let the bottom cm touch the bottom so water can wick up into moss on dry days to last longer... "

I wouldn't. I can see your point, but I think you risk letting rot get a hold on the moss if it is kept continuously wet.

" isn't it winter there also?"

Ahaha. Yeah, that's what started this all off. They are southern hemisphere plants that I bought this autumn.
So, I have some gone dormant, some think it's summer and some think it's both.
SUCH fun.
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  #53  
Old 11-18-2024, 02:06 PM
MRWPsyD MRWPsyD is offline
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Originally Posted by estación seca View Post
Fred Clarke, quoted above, says 90% of the previous years' roots die during the winter. They are there merely to hold the plants onto the trees, walls or fences where they grow.

They begin new root growth before the rainy season comes. They develop a huge root system in advance of any rain. Fred thinks this is so they can take in as much water as possible when the rain does come, because they will grow a series of very large leaves very rapidly. If they do not have a huge root system the new shoot will die.

Watering too early stops root growth. This will limit how much water the plant can take up. If the plant tries to make a standard-sized growth with inadequate roots, the developing shoot wilts and collapses. I have seen this happen to several people in our club who insisted on watering their plants too early.
This is just what I came here to find, thank you! I just purchased a dormant Ctsm. Maria Mercado 'Julien Baruch' (my first catasetum) at auction and could not tell that most or all of the roots were papery. I was getting worried I purchased a soon to be dead plant. Time to leave it alone for the winter
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  #54  
Old 11-18-2024, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MRWPsyD View Post
This is just what I came here to find, thank you! I just purchased a dormant Ctsm. Maria Mercado 'Julien Baruch' (my first catasetum) at auction and could not tell that most or all of the roots were papery. I was getting worried I purchased a soon to be dead plant. Time to leave it alone for the winter
Take a look at the culture notes on the Sunset Valley Orchids websiteCatasetinae Culture, and also search through this forum for more detailed notes including more from SVO, and videos from isurus79. These are really different from most other orchids, and if you accommodate those needs, you'll have success with this wonderful group.
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  #55  
Old 11-18-2024, 04:30 PM
MRWPsyD MRWPsyD is offline
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Take a look at the culture notes on the Sunset Valley Orchids websiteCatasetinae Culture, and also search through this forum for more detailed notes including more from SVO, and videos from isurus79.
Thanks for the link! The first thing I did when I got home was watch some of his interviews with Fred Clarke. One of isurus79's videos actually introduced me to the genus!
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  #56  
Old 01-04-2025, 08:47 AM
SFLguy SFLguy is offline
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Originally Posted by MRWPsyD View Post
This is just what I came here to find, thank you! I just purchased a dormant Ctsm. Maria Mercado 'Julien Baruch' (my first catasetum) at auction and could not tell that most or all of the roots were papery. I was getting worried I purchased a soon to be dead plant. Time to leave it alone for the winter
I just had to hop in here really quick when I saw this but can I ask who sold this to you? As far as I’m aware, that plant has never been divided so I would question whoever sold that to you.
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  #57  
Old 01-04-2025, 11:55 AM
MRWPsyD MRWPsyD is offline
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I just had to hop in here really quick when I saw this but can I ask who sold this to you? As far as I’m aware, that plant has never been divided so I would question whoever sold that to you.
It was sold under the hybrid name (Ctsm. John C. Burchett x Ctsm. Dagny) at the Maryland Orchid Society auction. I found a pic on SVO's website, does that not mean they used to sell them?

It was cheap and my first, so as long as it isn't sanguinium (my partner will make me toss it) I'm just happy to have a catasetum.

Edit- I'm not able to check at the moment, but I believe it had the original SVO tag. I'll update once I can confirm.

Last edited by MRWPsyD; 01-04-2025 at 12:06 PM..
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  #58  
Old 01-04-2025, 12:16 PM
SFLguy SFLguy is offline
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It was sold under the hybrid name (Ctsm. John C. Burchett x Ctsm. Dagny) at the Maryland Orchid Society auction. I found a pic on SVO's website, does that not mean they used to sell them?

It was cheap and my first, so as long as it isn't sanguinium (my partner will make me toss it) I'm just happy to have a catasetum.

Edit- I'm not able to check at the moment, but I believe it had the original SVO tag. I'll update once I can confirm.
It could very well be a Ctsm. Maria Mercado, but I don’t think it would be a Ctsm. Maria Nercado ‘Julien Baruch’
The first is the name for all the hybrids with those parents, the second is a specific plant - sorry for the mix up!
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  #59  
Old 01-04-2025, 12:19 PM
MRWPsyD MRWPsyD is offline
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It could very well be a Ctsm. Maria Mercado, but I don’t think it would be a Ctsm. Maria Nercado ‘Julien Baruch’
The first is the name for all the hybrids with those parents, the second is a specific plant - sorry for the mix up!
My mistake, then yes you would be correct in that it definitely does not say 'Julien Baruch', that's just the only one I could find online! Thanks for the heads up, definitely don't want to misrepresent it if I ever take it to judging or sell it.
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  #60  
Old 01-04-2025, 05:45 PM
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The first two words are the genus and cross name. The words in single quotes are the clonal name of one plant from the cross, usually given after that one individual receives an award. Divisions of that one plant retain the clonal name, because they're identical. Siblings may be from the first time the cross was made. If a breeder makes the cross again, those plants get the same name. Siblings of one cross may be extremely varied or relatively similar.

In this case Fred Clarke registered the cross Maria Mercado in 2020, when it flowered the first time. Your plant might have been from the first time he made the cross, or from a remake.
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