Donate Now
and become
Forum Supporter.
Many perks! <...more...>
|
03-04-2017, 07:01 AM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,162
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Regelian
A true gem! Very gracefull form. I think you've gotten the hang of the Genus.
Jamie
|
Thanks, this spike had a really nice pendant form, helped by having no leaves when it formed, I just love the weird sweet/synthetic fragrance of these plants.
|
03-04-2017, 08:56 AM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 2,393
|
|
I have a warscewiczii that I bought last autumn, and when it flowered, I was blown away by the scent.
|
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
|
|
|
03-09-2017, 02:13 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2013
Zone: 4a
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 8,344
|
|
What a beauty. I still haven't gotten the guts to try these.
|
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
|
|
|
03-09-2017, 04:45 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,162
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by No-Pro-mwa
What a beauty. I still haven't gotten the guts to try these.
|
I think as long as you adhere to the dry winter rest, they are not too difficult, once growing they are real water hogs and grow really quickly.
|
Post Thanks / Like - 2 Likes
|
|
|
03-09-2017, 07:04 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 2,393
|
|
Lots of water and high fertiliser levels too.
|
Post Thanks / Like - 2 Likes
|
|
|
03-11-2017, 01:47 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2013
Zone: 4a
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 8,344
|
|
But what about humidity and temps. I thought they were warm growers and wanted high humidity? Which of course I have neither. I do well with Catt's, well some.
|
03-11-2017, 06:19 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,162
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by No-Pro-mwa
But what about humidity and temps. I thought they were warm growers and wanted high humidity? Which of course I have neither. I do well with Catt's, well some.
|
I grow at a max of 25C in summer with humidity in the 30s indoors on a windowsill with no real difficulties.
|
03-11-2017, 06:46 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Phoenix AZ - Lower Sonoran Desert
Posts: 18,690
|
|
Shannon, our problem in the dry west is figuring out how to give enough light without burning, and giving enough water without drowning. Humidity isn't the issue.
Oh, and finding spider mites before they do much damage.
|
03-11-2017, 07:32 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 2,393
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by No-Pro-mwa
But what about humidity and temps. I thought they were warm growers and wanted high humidity? Which of course I have neither. I do well with Catt's, well some.
|
Well, I started with Catasetum last year. One, as Estacion Seca said was blitzed by mites, but is now throwing a nice shoot. The other, a C. Black Pearl, just grew, and grew, and grew. It now is pushing out three nice shoots.
My temps are high, and humidity medium to low, and in winter they go down to 12 -14. They sit in the greenhouse at 50% shade all year round.
|
03-12-2017, 08:49 AM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2016
Zone: 8a
Posts: 194
|
|
Shannon, you'll never know, unless you try. As the others have noted, they are not a difficult group, although I find Mormodes and Cycnoches the least forgiving. They truly requre a dry winter rest, otherwise they will rot. Catasetum and hybrids involving it are quite easy in culture. They love light, but do not want their leaves getting too hot, which can be an issue in Summer. I run a ventilator for air movement, which cools the foliage (I personally need it as well!). Their rest period may be quite short, only a couple of weeks, some rarely rest (hybrids especially).
Any new orchid group is an adventure...and that is really the whole fun of it. Once you start noting what the plants are doing, it seems to all fall into place. Admittedly, those who grow Cattleya or Dendrobium want to water too early in the season, but this is quickly learned. I lightly mist my collection daily in the Winter and don't worry about some p-bulb shrivelling. Once the plants are in virulent growth, they want masses of water and fertilizer (normal dose, but every watering). Once the bulbs are fully mature, slack off on watering, but do not stop completely until the leaves show signs of yellowing. Depending on the species/hyrid, they will be in bloom during this time, some earlier. They still do not need watering once the leaves are yellowing or gone. Misting is enough.
All orchids enjoy humidity, but often do not require it. The down side is spider mites. They thrive in low humidity. Placing the plants on gravel trays to raise the humidity can work wonders. When it gets hot I spray the underside of leaves, which is where the mites hide. Neem oil is a good, simple systemic.
Hope this not only helps, but brings you over the hill to go out and try at least one of these beauties.
Jamie V.
|
|
|
|
Mistking
|
Looking for a misting system? Look no further. Automated misting systems from MistKing are used by multitude of plant enthusiasts and are perfect for Orchids. Systems feature run dry pumps, ZipDrip valve, adjustable black nozzles, per second control! Automatically mist one growing shelf or a greenhouse full of Orchids. See MistKing testimonials |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Post Thanks / Like - 2 Likes
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:12 PM.
|