Mormodes igneum - few questions please?

[TOMMYMIAMI]

Ok, so I know this one is from Costa Rica, elevation 900, hot to worm growing and loves full sun. It seems just slightly different with the cycle - my other catasetums will loose leaves now and go deciduous till new growth has roots, that's when I start watering and fertilizing again, but this one says that it will go deciduous for the leaves now, and than actually it will bloom winter/early spring, from the bulb without the leaves? Is this correct cycle, and how should I care for it now? It has still all the leaves, so I need to know if I continue water and fertilize, or no fertilize but water, or make it go deciduous now? Many thanks, I love this one, so I hope I will make it bloom soon

[TOMMYMIAMI]

Anyone? I really do not wanna screw this baby, and I wanna make it bloom this winter/spring

[catasetum-ian]

Originally Posted by TOMMYMIAMI

Ok, so I know this one is from Costa Rica, elevation 900, hot to worm growing and loves full sun. It seems just slightly different with the cycle - my other catasetums will loose leaves now and go deciduous till new growth has roots, that's when I start watering and fertilizing again, but this one says that it will go deciduous for the leaves now, and than actually it will bloom winter/early spring, from the bulb without the leaves? Is this correct cycle, and how should I care for it now? It has still all the leaves, so I need to know if I continue water and fertilize, or no fertilize but water, or make it go deciduous now? Many thanks, I love this one, so I hope I will make it bloom soon

firstly congrats on the healthy plant.
the mormodes can bloom when there is still leaves on the bulbs or during the dormant phase.
i can see that your mormodes bubl is mature, i would just resume watering but less and no to minimal fertilizer, and i would just let them decide whether to go dormant or not.

basically i treat my mormodes like other catasetums, just that i notice the roots require good ventilation mendia. so far i had only ONE mormodes with me, but it bloom from the weak first back bulb cutting.
so i guess my comments is basically base on one sample size

[TOMMYMIAMI]

MANY THANKS catasetum-ian! I will lower watering than, and no fertilize, and will see what it will decide to do:-) I hope it will decide to spike:-)))))

[Bud]

if it still have leaves then continue water regimen....the fertilizer should be stopped if you want to flower or else only new growths will appear....
even if this is a Mormodes, you still have to follow the Catasinae culture....I did not understand what the grower you got this from advised you to rest this even if this has full leaves ? I can see that the canes are mature so the nutrients and energy are enough to trigger bloom....if that was the tip given to you then I guess you have to follow it since the grower knows best

[TOMMYMIAMI]

Many thanks Bud, there was no tip from the grower, I did my usual research to write down the care and this one says it blooms actually after the rest period, which is slightly different that other catasetums I do own, which have cycle new growth, blooming, winter rest, this one I guess is blooming, new growth, winter rest. What I mean, my catasetums did bloom and now they will go for winter rest, this one will bloom actually after I provide winter rest:-) I am keeping watering - less than usual in summer - no fertilizer and will hope for the spike to show up:-)

[isurus79]

I'd say stop fertilizing and you can probably water less over time. Its leaves look ready for dormancy, but I'm not a fan of forcing it, especially if its recently imported. It will let you know when its time to go to sleep by dropping its lower leaves.

[euplusia]

Now at the end of october nearly all my Catasetums and Catasetinae still have a set of green leaves. On some plants some basal leaves have turned yellow and wilted. Bulbs are plump. I stopped fertilizing 2 weeks ago and, observing the weather report closely, I give reduced water on warm sunny days, but let the pots dry out between watering.
This is the season when the plants slowly prepare for the rest period, but they rest period has not yet set in. That will be between december and february.
In my personal experience it caused a severe setback when I tried to force dormancy too early.
It is better when plants keeps their leaves as long as possible.
Mormodes are very eager to flower, even as small plants. There is no need to force them to get rid of their leaves or to force dormancy in order to get flowers.
It is good to have a general Catasetinae growth cycle in mind. But in fact there is no average Catasetum, every plant is a bit individual. So the plants needs rank first.
You have done a great job so far and your observation, that this Mormodes has a cycle a bit different from the majority of Catasetums, hits the nail right on the head. So don't let some guidelines make you insecure.
Having said this I fully confirm the recommendations of Ian, Bud and Isurus.
Be patient and when flowers have opened, share your joy and post some photos please.
I attached a photo of my Mormodes vinaceum that I just shot. Two basal leaves start to turn yellow, and a small nub on the right side hopefully turns into a spike.

[TOMMYMIAMI]

Many thanks Euplusia, this is exactly what I am doing right now with this baby. No fertilizing and water once a week when medium dries out. It did loose one bottom leave since the time I posted this and one is on the way, so I do assume it is slowly preparing for winter rest:-) This is my very first year owning any "catasetumic" orchids, and I have very different stages, my millenium magic is after spikes, but still fully green with one leave just starting to yellow, this one is on the same way, but than I have one catasetum that I received from Thailand some 3 weeks ago, leafless and there are actually 2tiny little growths starting on the side of the pbulb, so I am not watering that one since I got it and waiting for new growth to have roots.