Does anyone grow STANHOPEA tigrina?

[RGonzalez]

I have heard some growers use blood meal/bone meal treatment as for Lycastes once a year, but I personally does not have any experience with that and I'm afraid of use it because I don't know the amount to use.

[ShannonH1984]

Originally Posted by isurus79

Yes on the hanging basket as yes to the media! I use pure spag though some people like to use spag mixed with other stuff such as charcoal. It depends on your growing conditions. If you provide very humid conditions then you might want to add something to the spag to keep it open and fresh. If, like me, you have trouble keeping your media moist, pure spag works just fine!

Thanks, I'll look for a hanging basket.

[ShannonH1984]

Originally Posted by RGonzalez

Hi, I just got Exactly the same size of an stanop. couple of years ago like yours, what I did worked for me, I live in Miami and I have a hobbyst greenhouse 10'x20'x8'hight, I don't know the climate conditions where you live but it seems like that plant took it as if it was in its native place...the day I got it I had ready an (4")"injected molded plastic pot" that resembles a wire hanging container, orchid grade coconut fiber, plastic coated thin wire. I just covered almost the entire plant with the coconut fibers leaving the leaves and part of the pseudobulbs out and tied it with the thin wire to the base of the pot, hung it low in the greenhouse underneath other potted cattleyas that I have hanging (not under the bench) and water every other day if the humidity is between 50/60%. The reason of the coconut fibers is because it retains enough moisture around the plant for a day and stars drying the next day if it is not windy, a necessary thing, does not deteriorate like the traditional sphagnum moss most commonly used, and when it does it is like a dust and most importantly does not change the pH as the sphagnum does when decaying. Water the plant like that making sure the water does not accumulate inside the emerging new leaves because it will rot or a bacteria can colonize it, and fetilize like cattleyas, in winter reduce watering just every four to five days depending on the humidity, if you see the pseudobulbs shriveling too much then increase watering, maybe every three days?, let the plant get some low temps 48/50degree F if possible, not lower than that, and start increasing watering by the end of march, the plant you just got WILL NOT GIVE ANY FLOWER UNTIL TWOO YEARS FROM NOW. The nice flowers will emerge from the youngest pseudobulbs and plumpest, the bigger the better. When new pseudobulbs are emerging try to keep them moist but not soggy, they require that moisture around while growing because long periods without water around can cause the tips of the leaves turn brown and beyong that would bee necessary to trim them. I love the round and green leaves. It is rewarding!!!!and the perfume of the flowers are unforgettable, trust me.....

Thanks for all the great info.