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02-04-2022, 03:07 PM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Zone: 6a
Location: Kansas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isurus79
I would give them a good soak and keep them warm (above 55 at minimum, way warmer if possible) until the media gets dry again. You'll want the media bone dry as the new roots appear, so giving the plant plenty of energy storage before them helps the process along.
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Steve, you just told me in your post #11 to get them down to 50-55F to assist in getting them to go dormant. So is this an either water them and keep warm (not a problem) or don't water and leave in the cold for awhile? Now I'm really confused.
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Caveat: Everything suggested is based on my environment and culture. Please adjust accordingly.
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02-04-2022, 03:19 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Zone: 10a
Location: Coastal southern California, USA
Posts: 13,749
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Mine live outside until night temps get down to about 55 deg. F, then they go into the GH (at that point most are still green and leafy, usually late October or early November) Then night temps typically around 60 deg F. I slow down the watering as leaves drop, cut out all watering by mid December leaves or not... by now, all are leafless. (And starting to see new shoots)
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02-04-2022, 03:24 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Zone: 8b
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Age: 44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWitchin
Steve, you just told me in your post #11 to get them down to 50-55F to assist in getting them to go dormant. So is this an either water them and keep warm (not a problem) or don't water and leave in the cold for awhile? Now I'm really confused.
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Yes to both! Cool temps get them into dormancy, but keep them warm until dry if you water. Orchids get fluctuating temperatures in the wild and will do just fine if they receive similar climate swings in cultivation That just means you'll have to move them back and forth, depending on which actions you wish to pursue.
To be honest they do just fine with massive shriveling, but I certainly understand why that makes many growers uneasy. You can see why it's easier to just say "keep them dry" during the entire dormancy lol
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02-04-2022, 03:29 PM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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I'm now unsure why I even care whether they go into dormancy. If they don't, does it really matter? Can't I just keep watering unless the leaves start to drop? Which of course is too late for this year. Just a question.
And this year's bulb will come up from last year's bulb, right? So do I really care about older bulbs withering?
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02-04-2022, 03:36 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2018
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Location: Newark, De
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Give them a hair cut!!
I used to have all these questions and overthink myself. Then I saw a post where Isurus79 said he used to have to cut the have off of his to bring inside with no ill effect. So I started to do the same to force dormancy.
Now I look at all my catasetinae type and I consider them all in dormancy. If they have leaves after the 2nd week of January, they get a trip to the barber and I don't think any them until March.
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02-04-2022, 07:04 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Zone: 8b
Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWitchin
I'm now unsure why I even care whether they go into dormancy. If they don't, does it really matter? Can't I just keep watering unless the leaves start to drop? Which of course is too late for this year. Just a question.
And this year's bulb will come up from last year's bulb, right? So do I really care about older bulbs withering?
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The problem with no dormancy is that they often will go into dormancy late and then wake up late, which tends to reduce the growing season. A shorter growing season can result in a small growth.
I typically don't worry about the older bulbs getting skinny. Can you post a photo?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mook1178
Give them a hair cut!!
I used to have all these questions and overthink myself. Then I saw a post where Isurus79 said he used to have to cut the have off of his to bring inside with no ill effect. So I started to do the same to force dormancy.
Now I look at all my catasetinae type and I consider them all in dormancy. If they have leaves after the 2nd week of January, they get a trip to the barber and I don't think any them until March.
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This technique worked well for me for many years!
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02-04-2022, 07:52 PM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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Hellsyeah I can post a couple pics. Mañana. I’m in my first year of these weird orchids. It ain’t growing Catts, Dens, etc. So lots of questions for my learning curve.
Pretend I’m a newbie and trying to figure out how to take care of my grocery store Phal. And no offense to those starting out. I just know in this particular case I’m trying to get a learning curve that spikes.
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02-05-2022, 06:04 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Palma de Mallorca
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Want a mini Catasetum ..any recommendations?
Hi!
I want to order the cutest mini Catasetum, from Sunset Valley (Fred). Could anyone recommend me an specific one..??
Thanks!
Sade
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Sade
***Mediterranean Conditions; learning something new every day ***
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If you want to check 🔍 my stuff:
www.sadeorchids.com
Instagram
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Last edited by SADE2020; 02-05-2022 at 05:21 PM..
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02-05-2022, 07:55 AM
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Senior Member
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Anything with denticulatum in the background is very likely to be colorful and small statured!
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02-05-2022, 08:12 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Palma de Mallorca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isurus79
Anything with denticulatum in the background is very likely to be colorful and small statured!
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Thanks Steve 😘
__________________
Sade
***Mediterranean Conditions; learning something new every day ***
________________________________________
If you want to check 🔍 my stuff:
www.sadeorchids.com
Instagram
🌿🌸
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