Quote
Quote:
Originally Posted by isurus79
The initial root flush come out in the beginning and represents the largest root growth. When these are small and touch water, their tips turn brown and stop growing completely. I've noticed a few other small flushes of roots coming out in the late growing season but its usually only a few.
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The above is merely an example of what a lot of us haven't encountered. The growing conditions associated with the above really need to be described adequately - temperature, media, state of the roots, amount of water in the media, plant name(s) etc. So that at least somebody can get an idea of the situation ------ in order to avoid it.
Camille --- I totally agree with you about what you wrote in both of your posts.
I'm 100% behind procedures that help to maximise chances for keeping an orchid healthy - especially for beginners to follow. This includes those recommendations regarding holding off watering until roots are X inches long (ie. it is a good procedure!).
When I grow orchids - just like you do - regardless of what orchids they are, we aim to not harm a single one (big or small, rare or common).
My focus on the tests (which will later be extended to species catasetum) was to establish whether or not there is any truth (at all) about newly emerging roots (of catasetum type plants coming out of true dormancy) stalling or dying if they get water on them (the newly emerging roots). So far, I haven't seen one develop issues. This is all under good temperature range, and avoiding O2 starvation in all roots (new and old).
If I had seen just 1 go backwards in health due to exposure to water (even very light amounts), then I would immediately say 'hey ------ there may really be something in it - about newly emerging roots being impacted negatively by even relatively small amounts of water'.
It was these reported observations from the testing --- combined with observations and reports from fellow growers ----- which definitely makes me confident that newly emerging roots won't be harmed at least by small amounts of water on them.
As long as the roots are prevented from dying due to temperature being out of regular growing range, and the roots aren't put in a situation where they can become starved of oxygen, then it is very highly unlikely that the new roots and old roots will stall or die (and then take the whole plant down with it).
But once again - having mentioned that ------- I'm totally behind the recommendations about with-holding watering until roots are X inches long ----- which is not due to water harming the newly emerging roots, but just due to avoiding growers getting the media saturated and killing old and new roots (embedded within the media).
Normally - if heavy transpiration is occurring through the growing season, then water uptake is going on quite a lot, so water can be moved from the media by the roots and plant.
When not much activity is happening (eg. coming out of dormancy, and no leaves), then the growers might just dump water into the media, and nothing much happens except for creating conditions to suffocate the roots down there (in the medium). And roots running out of oxygen if aerated water in and around the roots doesn't move adequately ---- is well known to be a killer of roots and orchids.
So - for both new growers and experienced growers alike - the recommendation by Fred Clarke - about with-holding watering until X inches long ----- and adding relatively small amounts of water to the pot if signs of bulb shriveling (OR signs of new growth leaves becoming dry) ----- is a good one.
The 'or signs of new growth leaves becoming dry' ----- is added - courtesy of D.C., who's new growth rebounded so positively after having noticed that it was about to dry right out and die ----- probably due to water being needed. I'm believing D.C.'s new growth would have died if he hadn't responded from his instinctive way.
The testing I did is really just information for establishing details about water merely 'touching' newly emerging roots - even a little bit (----- any negative impacts). Just a sharing of the results of the testing. Similar testing can be done by anybody - just make sure the temperature range is suitable for the orchid growth, and avoid O2 starvation.
This doesn't mean that growers should water their orchids 'early'. The testing wasn't about that at all. But on the other hand - people can also think about what happens if old roots in the pot dry right up (during dormancy) - they could possibly die completely. And - there are growers who have seen - including myself - that old roots can indeed stay alive during and after dormancy - remaining very useful. So this brings a question of - let the roots dry right out and die? Or retain at least some moisture down there in the media and keep them alive? Here - climate and temperature would need to be considered first. Tropical climate - ok. Very cold climate - maybe not ok.
The tests (repeating here) were to really see if there were at least any cases where the new growth and new roots stalls and dies. At this moment, it certainly doesn't look like new roots and growth will die from some water (even repeatedly) getting on them - when satisfactory growing conditions are provided. That's only for establishing some facts ---- getting facts together. Other growers on Orchid Board forum can (and have) contribute(d) toward this (already).
The more information and observations we have, the more (even more) confident we will become about this situation.
Just a few extra words to avoid wrong impressions about my responses to isurus79. I'm someone that doesn't condone delivery of petty insults and patronising remarks in discussions - which he has made toward me several times. My response isn't just a matter of picking out someone to have a 'full-on discussion' with. I always treat nice people very well.
Thanks for your very nice input Camille. Your comments and posts are very welcomed and well received too.
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