Should I water or not?

[Clawhammer]

My thinking on the recommendation is that it probably doesn't matter much either way and it is almost February. I like my plants to enter dormancy plump.

For what it is worth I just received an order from SVO and it appeared the leaves were cut prior to shipping (stalks still yellow and green at the top). It was probably to facilitate shipping but I can't imagine SVO would do that if it hurt the development of the plant in any way at this late stage.

Interested to hear what Fred has to say.

[DirtyCoconuts]

Like a toddler at bedtime lol it doesn’t want to go to dormancy.

[mook1178]

I asked Fred Clarke about this discussion. This was his response:


Do this in the pictures, it increases humidity while not wetting the plant. It works super good many Canadian growers use this method will stellar results. Just keep the water lever about ½” below the pot.



Water your plant once, most water will wash right through and that’s ok, then place pot in the jar with water.



The top two leaves are hanging on due to the Ctsm. tenebrosum influence and that’s ok, just leave then, or remove if they look too ratty…. they are not contributing much to the plants growth at this time

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by mook1178

This was his response:
Do this in the pictures, it increases humidity while not wetting the plant. It works super good many Canadian growers use this method will stellar results. Just keep the water lever about ½” below the pot.

Water your plant once, most water will wash right through and that’s ok, then place pot in the jar with water.

Maybe workable - but I wouldn't go down that path, as it appears that the jar would create a very still-air environment in the pot. Could lead to rot.

I would take the path of very light watering of roots and media. Very light watering, with no air-flow restrictions around the orchid pot. Simply lightly moist roots and media with good air-flow all around the pot. This isn't being against that recommended method involving the jar. It's only about what we could expect from it.

[isurus79]

Originally Posted by SouthPark

Maybe workable - but I wouldn't go down that path, as it appears that the jar would create a very still-air environment in the pot. Could lead to rot.

I would take the path of very light watering of roots and media. Very light watering, with no air-flow restrictions around the orchid pot. Simply lightly moist roots and media with good air-flow all around the pot. This isn't being against that recommended method involving the jar. It's only about what we could expect from it.

Errr, are you seriously disagreeing with Fred on this? How long have you been growing Catasetums?

---------- Post added at 02:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:18 PM ----------

Originally Posted by mook1178

Interestingly enough, It is now mid/late February and the top 2 leaves are still green and showing no signs of going dormant. I have not watered since this thread.

Again, I have 2 of the same cross. I just noticed a new growth on one but not the other. I'm excited to see the differences in these siblings.

Nice. Did you end up using the jar method from Fred?

Also, you can cut those top leaves off. I used to cut all mine in November when I brought them inside for the winter. Doesn't hurt the plant.

[mook1178]

Originally Posted by isurus79

Nice. Did you end up using the jar method from Fred?

Also, you can cut those top leaves off. I used to cut all mine in November when I brought them inside for the winter. Doesn't hurt the plant.

I did not go with the jar method. After watering the plants, they plumped up and stayed that way. I did not feel the need to go with the jar method, but it is in the back of my mind for next winter.

I decided not to cut the leaves off. Fred even mentioned it would not hurt the plant. However, I feel that they are still photosynthesizing and may possibly be adding to the pbulb. Also, Fred mentioned that the leaves staying are influence from the tenebrosum. I know tenebrosum really doesn't have much of a dormancy in the winter as others due to not having a true dry season in the original habitat. I had the room on the windowsill over winter, so I let them do their thing.

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by isurus79

Errr, are you seriously disagreeing with Fred on this? How long have you been growing Catasetums?

I'm disagreeing with Fred on this. I wouldn't cut air-flow to my pot like that, especially when the pot has spaghnum in it.

I've been growing catasetum and orchids for 'long enough' to understand the importance of maintaining adequate aeration for roots. And plugging a pot of spaghnum (with an orchid growing in it) into a jar is expected to create issues for the roots and plant.

[isurus79]

Originally Posted by SouthPark

I'm disagreeing with Fred on this

Bad idea. Again, how long have you grown this group? This is important for people wondering if they should believe you or Fred Clarke.

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by mook1178

I asked Fred Clarke about this discussion. This was his response:


Do this in the pictures, it increases humidity while not wetting the plant. It works super good many Canadian growers use this method will stellar results. Just keep the water lever about ½” below the pot.



Water your plant once, most water will wash right through and that’s ok, then place pot in the jar with water.



The top two leaves are hanging on due to the Ctsm. tenebrosum influence and that’s ok, just leave then, or remove if they look too ratty…. they are not contributing much to the plants growth at this time

Good advice, from someone who knows as much about Catasetinae as anybody on the planet!

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by Roberta

Good advice, from someone who knows as much about Catasetinae as anybody on the planet!

I would have to disagree on that Roberta. I'm sure he knows more than us put together (- only jokingly - I know what you were meaning to write! ).