Should I water or not?

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by mook1178

is it really ok to cut the leaves and force dormancy?

I'm not sure I want to do that, just curious. I'll most likely just let them do their thing.

Oh if curious they are the Ctsm. tenobrosum x Ctsm. calosum seedlings from SVO. It will be neat to see some differences from the same cross.

The shriveling doesn't look bad to me. If you got these from SVO, why not send Fred Clarke an email asking about cutting leaves... and let the rest of us know what he says. Unless he's traveling, he's usually very responsive.

[Clawhammer]

My thinking on the recommendation is that it probably doesn't matter much either way and it is almost February. I like my plants to enter dormancy plump.

For what it is worth I just received an order from SVO and it appeared the leaves were cut prior to shipping (stalks still yellow and green at the top). It was probably to facilitate shipping but I can't imagine SVO would do that if it hurt the development of the plant in any way at this late stage.

Interested to hear what Fred has to say.

[mook1178]

I asked Fred Clarke about this discussion. This was his response:


Do this in the pictures, it increases humidity while not wetting the plant. It works super good many Canadian growers use this method will stellar results. Just keep the water lever about ½” below the pot.



Water your plant once, most water will wash right through and that’s ok, then place pot in the jar with water.



The top two leaves are hanging on due to the Ctsm. tenebrosum influence and that’s ok, just leave then, or remove if they look too ratty…. they are not contributing much to the plants growth at this time

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by mook1178

This was his response:
Do this in the pictures, it increases humidity while not wetting the plant. It works super good many Canadian growers use this method will stellar results. Just keep the water lever about ½” below the pot.

Water your plant once, most water will wash right through and that’s ok, then place pot in the jar with water.

Maybe workable - but I wouldn't go down that path, as it appears that the jar would create a very still-air environment in the pot. Could lead to rot.

I would take the path of very light watering of roots and media. Very light watering, with no air-flow restrictions around the orchid pot. Simply lightly moist roots and media with good air-flow all around the pot. This isn't being against that recommended method involving the jar. It's only about what we could expect from it.

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by mook1178

I asked Fred Clarke about this discussion. This was his response:


Do this in the pictures, it increases humidity while not wetting the plant. It works super good many Canadian growers use this method will stellar results. Just keep the water lever about ½” below the pot.



Water your plant once, most water will wash right through and that’s ok, then place pot in the jar with water.



The top two leaves are hanging on due to the Ctsm. tenebrosum influence and that’s ok, just leave then, or remove if they look too ratty…. they are not contributing much to the plants growth at this time

Good advice, from someone who knows as much about Catasetinae as anybody on the planet!

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by Roberta

Good advice, from someone who knows as much about Catasetinae as anybody on the planet!

I would have to disagree on that Roberta. I'm sure he knows more than us put together (- only jokingly - I know what you were meaning to write! ).

[mook1178]

The jar method isn't meant for the growing season, but for the pre dormancy to keep a fat bulb going into dormancy.

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by mook1178

The jar method isn't meant for the growing season, but for the pre dormancy to keep a fat bulb going into dormancy.

I agree with you mook - that the method is referring to pre-dormancy only.

One of the well-known healthy orchid growing recommendations is to avoid that sort of setup - with a jar obstructing air flow around the orchid pot. Growers should avoid air-flow obstruction to cut down on chances of stagnation in the pot - which could lead to oxygen starvation, fungal growth, rotting etc.

It's ok for growers to try - for sure. But those considerations should be made about possible issues with the jar setup.

[mook1178]

Interestingly enough, It is now mid/late February and the top 2 leaves are still green and showing no signs of going dormant. I have not watered since this thread.

Again, I have 2 of the same cross. I just noticed a new growth on one but not the other. I'm excited to see the differences in these siblings.

[isurus79]

Originally Posted by SouthPark

Maybe workable - but I wouldn't go down that path, as it appears that the jar would create a very still-air environment in the pot. Could lead to rot.

I would take the path of very light watering of roots and media. Very light watering, with no air-flow restrictions around the orchid pot. Simply lightly moist roots and media with good air-flow all around the pot. This isn't being against that recommended method involving the jar. It's only about what we could expect from it.

Errr, are you seriously disagreeing with Fred on this? How long have you been growing Catasetums?

---------- Post added at 02:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:18 PM ----------

Originally Posted by mook1178

Interestingly enough, It is now mid/late February and the top 2 leaves are still green and showing no signs of going dormant. I have not watered since this thread.

Again, I have 2 of the same cross. I just noticed a new growth on one but not the other. I'm excited to see the differences in these siblings.

Nice. Did you end up using the jar method from Fred?

Also, you can cut those top leaves off. I used to cut all mine in November when I brought them inside for the winter. Doesn't hurt the plant.