Fdk x ctsm from SVO question

[mook1178]

Isurus-At what point would you repot if this happens next year. I obviously don't want to damage any roots from the new growth, but what about the old growth roots?

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by mook1178

I obviously don't want to damage any roots from the new growth, but what about the old growth roots?

mook ----- because the pseudobulb is supporting the plant, it's ok to accidentally damage roots - but just keep damage to a minimum. Obviously no damage is best.

Since the bulb can support the plant for a while, then any damaged roots can be allowed to dry out first, and seal up. Then repot after that.

Originally Posted by mook1178

So can I just get a bigger pot and throw in media to fill the void?

You absolutely can. In quite a lot of a cases, I just took the existing spaghnum mass out, and put into another pot, with scoria rock surrounding the mass from below (ie. on bottom of the pot) and the sides. In your case, you can just put in more spaghnum.

You can also wait for the plant to grow more - more leaves, more roots etc, and then repot later.

I have seen some information that teaches growers to not disturb the plant or roots during active growing period. However, I genuinely can say that I've repotted quite a few catasetum type orchids during their active growing period. Disturbed the roots quite a bit (as a result of it). I saw no bad effects from doing that. Once again - it wasn't really due to a need to repot them. It was out of interest - to see what happens if I (we) do.

[isurus79]

Originally Posted by mook1178

Isurus-At what point would you repot if this happens next year. I obviously don't want to damage any roots from the new growth, but what about the old growth roots?

You really only want to repot during dormancy, when the plant is not growing and has dropped its leaves. You can do whatever you want with old roots! These guys put out a ton of new roots each year to replace the old ones, hence the importance of the new roots and not disturbing them.

Originally Posted by SouthPark

I have seen some information that teaches growers to not disturb the plant or roots during active growing period.

This large body of information telling people not to disturb the new roots exists for a reason: its valid. I've grown this group for nearly 15 years and have made every mistake under the sun, including disturbing new roots. Don't do it. It's a bad idea.

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by isurus79

This large body of information telling people not to disturb the new roots exists for a reason: its valid. I've grown this group for nearly 15 years and have made every mistake under the sun, including disturbing new roots. Don't do it. It's a bad idea.

I'm totally with you on avoiding disturbance of new roots .... or just roots themselves during active growth. I mean - if the plants don't need to be disturbed normally, then don't disturb them.

I'm just saying that I have disturbed new roots and regular roots during active growth (when I first started growing catasetum and needed to check on roots due to too much water) and nothing bad happened.

I do know for sure there are various (numerous) sorts of terrestrial type plants - not necessarily orchids - that take a nasty or even fatal dive when their roots are disturbed (ie. plant removed from the soil, then replaced/repotted). I just don't expect the same to happen for a catasetum though. And so far, I haven't seen it happen for a catasetum. Their roots just look to be of the robust variety. Not a weak variety.

In the future, I will do a thread on this topic, where I'll take several catasetum type plants at the same time - and disturb their roots very convincingly during new and/or active growth, and give a very thorough rundown on it. This will be done not out of some sort of 'rebellious' (against the grain) thing. It's only about whether they really do get affected negatively - as some people say. Out of interest.

But - also - I predict based on what I see of these orchids and their roots - that everything is very likely to pan out just fine. Otherwise I wouldn't do it - as every single orchid (not just my own) is important.

[isurus79]

Seriously, there is no need to do that.

[SouthPark]

I momentarily forgot! I disturbed the roots of a very actively growing Fdk recently, as I chose this one as a test for growing in 100% scoria. So this means two tests are going on in one shot --- 100% scoria and disturbed roots at the same time. Very much disturbed roots. I see no issue with the leaves or growth. It still grows nicely. 10 to 20 mm average diameter scoria pieces. I use a watering wand with adjustable spray nozzle to water this media each morning.




I also have another Fdk in a smaller pot - new leaves, new roots - same situation - been potted for even longer in scoria. I pulled all the spaghnum off the roots - potted into 5 mm average diameter scoria. No issues.

I'll certainly keep everybody updated on this - including photo updates for both orchids.

Once again - this is only about sharing of information and experiences.

UPDATE: I attached a photo taken a few weeks or so ago - of the smaller pot Fdk - that was transferred from spaghnum to scoria during active growth. All spaghnum removed from roots. The plant is still powering along - growing - roots and leaves getting longer. I have a red coloured arrow pointing to this Fdk.

Click Here

And another photo in the link below - taken around half an hour ago - longer leaves:

Click Here

I also notice that when we water early, the new roots go into the media, rather than randomly spreading out above and below the media surface - which is not an issue either way. The roots merely have some mechanism to head toward sources of water when somehow detected.

So - just to summarise the situation. Two Fdk plants tested for growing in 100% scoria. Both were transferred to scoria during active growth. Both doing just fine.

[DirtyCoconuts]

I have a catesetum that just dropped all its flowers at once and I accept that a sign dormancy is coming. I was going to repot it into a 6 inch plastic basket filled with my loose medium. Given the experience south park has had, my hope is that the exceptionally fast draining and airy medium will allow me to have more leeway to let it get wet (grown outside and hanging )

[SouthPark]

DC ..... when all the leaves of your catasetum abruptly begin to yellow, then it will most likely be going into dormancy. When that happens, it will be absolutely ok to stop watering - and just allow the media to just dry right out.

It is sometimes a shock for new catasetum growers to see leaves just going yellow all of a sudden - but that's very normal for dormancy time. Once all the leaves are yellowed and dropped off, and the media is totally dry ----- just let the pot sit in a shady place where water/rain can't wet the plant and media. Eventually - after some period of time ranging from just 1 week up to many many weeks - new growth will occur. It usually does occur.

[DirtyCoconuts]

That is exactly what I shall do! Thanks

[mook1178]

I don't really think my question on repotting was answered. I understand that we repot during dormancy. However, if there is new growth and the parent p-bulb is not dormant and it needs a new pot, when is the best time? If the plant never actually has dormancy, in the sense that there is no new growth and leaves are gone, we have to to repot while there is new growth and old growth. Is it best to repot before the roots from the new growth emerge and risk the damage to the roots that the parent bulb is using or do we wait until the parent bulb is in dormancy and hope to not disturb the new roots? Either way seems to me that there will be root damage, which is better?