Lets talk Slc. & Sc. Type orchids. How do the differ from Catts/Pot./Blc.?

[emmajs243]

Ok guys! Maybe I am incorrect but I feel like throughout reading posts and my posts, I feel as if Laelia Orchids and even Sophronitis Orchids kinda have been implied to be a tad more sensitive like when to repot, things like that.

I just received a bunch of Slc and Sc. Orchids and would like to make sure I kinda have them figured out but can't find much info about how they differ from your Catts and more common or maybe "easier" catt alliance orchids. I know sophronitus likes slightly cooler temps but other then that...I Dont know how they are different from repotting, watering, feeding all that General care! And maybe they aren't and I'm way off but I figured I would check out YOUR experiences at least so I have some ideas in my head while trying to figure them out!

[SaraJean]

Here’s my take:
Cattleyas, in general, will do best if repotted when they are just starting to send out a flush of new roots from the newest growth. This is much more critical with the bifoliate Catts and a little less critical for the unifoliates, but still good practice. It will keep you from putting too much stress on the orchid if you damage the roots while repotting and then it is not actively growing any roots to support it (as in, keep it alive). Less stress, less setback, less problems

As far as the Slc. or Sc. things go, I wouldn’t worry about it. Yes, most of the Sophronitis (now reclassified as Cattleyas) are cooler growers. Once they are crossed with other warm growing Cattleyas, you should have no problem treating them like a normal Catt hybrid. This is doubly true the more complex of a hybrid it is. It can be a little tricky to grow some of the hybrids that have only cool species in the background, like the Sl. Minipet, but those seem to be the exception and not the rule.

[Roberta]

SaraJean is absolutely correct - best time to pot is when roots are just starting. A complex hybrid can root at any time, often more than once during the year. Don't try to predict based on the parentage when that is going to happen. Or try to generalize. Just observe the plant. When you see the start of roots, pot. It's all about roots, and observation.

[estación seca]

There are Laelias and there are Laelias. The big vigorous large-flowered ones like L. purpurata that are now considered Cattleyas are very easy to grow, and pass this on to their progeny. The small-flowered rupicolous Brazilian ones produce brightly colored, red-orange-yellow hued flowers, in clusters. The species can be finicky but hybrids are not. Mexican - true - Laelias contribute strong seasonality, vigorous growth and rambling habit to their progeny.

[emmajs243]

Thank you guys!!! Good to know they can be treated just like any other Catt hybrid! I just couldn't quite put my finger on what I felt like had been commented but maybe ES hit on it! Persnickety/finicky! Perfect words for kinda what I have heard!

On that note...ES! These are the second Laelias! The smaller, clustered, bright red & yellow Flowers! Now may I ask, vigorous growth sounds great, understand that one.....but what do you mean by strong seasonality and "rambling habit"???! Especially rambling habit! I can kinda guess some ideas for strong seasonability but rambling habit is definitely a foreign term to me!!!!

[estación seca]

Longer distance between pseudobulbs.

[emmajs243]

Ah!!!! Thank you!!

[Ben_in_North_FLA]

let me swim against tide about this particular concern. Based on my own attempts to grow slc's in south FLA over a 25 years+ span... maybe a dozen plants. All were clones and hybrids except Sophronitis cernua (straight species), which I think is pretty much indestructible.
They all mostly lingered and slowly manifested their unhappiness about the temperatures in the high 90's.
eventually all faded away.
At one point I sought out a slightly shadier spot in my property and mounted a couple of sc crystelle "smith" mostly to see if there was hope any hope at all. This spot was on a roebellini palm and about 12 inches off the ground and in a very breezy part of my yard. This did the trick. Because of the lower light level,plant beng closer to the ground and believe a lower temp, mounted on a trunk and pretty much ignored as far as feeding. The plant did get frequent water as it was hit by my sprinklers 2-3 times a week and by rain.
There s likely a variance depending on which sophronitis species was used in that particular breeding and am sure some slc's will do just fine with regular catt culture. Just the same if you had a "cooler" spot to place them they may benefit from it.